Yorkman

That's all very interesting, but isn't helping me with my problem. Why is it not being activated by the 'gear' channel?

It's not a stabilizer PLUS. And I kind of know how to programme the Tx

Sorry, I should have said, it's a DX7. The instructions as I understand them say the 'gear' channel does the switching, but it is having no effect (both led's remain lit whatever the switch position)

Yes-the problem is the instructions make no sense to me- Gear switch is used to switch between manual or stabilization control Green + red LED indication means no stabilization while solid green means stabilization is enabled. If Aux3 is available on your transmitter, remote master gain tuning for all 3 channels will become available. However, during setup AUX3 should be in its center position. Step 5 - Adjust the 3 potentiometers to 50% and check the gain direction. Ensure your Gear is set to enable gyro with gain = 1 on AUX3 (if available). What does that last sentence mean??

I've just got one of these lemon rx's and installed it, but switching the gear channel is having no effect-in fact, no channel is having any effect on switching on the gyro. It seems to be working fine as a receiver...but I can't enable the gyro...any ideas anyone?

thanks for that, I'll give it a try tomorrow. and try not to 'unstick' the transfers in the process... Edited By Yorkman on 03/09/2014 23:05:41

steam it over a kettle? That's the old balsa, tissue and dope way isn't it??

I've recently built an old Flying Styro TA-7C Corsair II, and after a few flights I discovered that the stbd wingtip is twisted up in relation to the port, hence the exciting first few seconds of its maiden flight! **LINK** If I leave it overnight suitably weighted, I can change its angle of attack, but it doesn't last more than a few hours. The wings are moulded polystyrene, upper and lower surfaces joined at the factory with a thin ply/balsa spar fitted by me. Has anyone got any tips on how to 'lock' a new shape into the wing? Would be nice to have the ailerons at neutral!

Posted by Simon Chaddock on 23/05/2014 14:36:29: . Props tend to be cheaper than motors.   Good point, well made Unfortunately, saddo that I am, I hate to see scale warbirds with ridiculously small two blade propellers.... Hence, I'd like to keep the 10" 3 blade ones-incidental to the fact is the spinners wouldn't fit two blade props either. As i said right at the beginning, I was only after a bit more top speed, if possible, as the motors needed replacing anyway. Should have come here first, before buying anything!   Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 23/05/2014 15:29:03

2837/10 1480 480 43A 80A 2-3 N/A 79 3.17 28.1 40.8 Yes from Giantshark-Keda Thumrun, has loads of power and can take 43 amps while weighing very little....suitable?

*think I might have got it-by my calculations 1500kV gives 300w...??

Mr B. Thanks. I think. I'm afraid I'm not able to follow the theorising above-I was always rubbish at algebra at school! I THINK I deduce that 1100kV would be too little....but unsure* how to do the calculation to insert different values at N2... *absolutely no clue...

Have been pondering....if I change the 1700kV motors which are pulling 43amps with my chosen propellors, to, for example, identical spec motors apart from being 1100kV- which is 65% of the original, will the amps reduce to 65% proportionately? Which would give me 28amps? Is that a valid calculation?

Ok, I'm getting nowhere fast here. Got a pair of 9x5x3 bladers hoping to reduce current draw, it actually went up (saw about 50amps before shutting down) It's obvious I need lower kV motors, I've gone way too high. So-I'm trawling through GiantShark's 70-99g brushless list (original motors weighed 90g, my starting point)-looking for kV around 1000 and watts around 300. Anyone got any thoughts? Don't want to just keep buying motors on the off-chance they'll be ok....

Posted by Peter Beeney on 10/05/2014 11:52:24: PS I guess you managed to unwind a prop off a bit sharpish, did you? From the ‘reverse rotation remark’…. Edited By Peter Beeney on 10/05/2014 11:56:00 ALWAYS position oneself behind the motor when running it....or you may end up with a very sore finger...

thanks for the advice Peter, that's the sort of info I can understand! I think I might try and get some 9x5s and see what sort of current/power they produce. I think those figures you're quoting are probably incorrect (by me) I saw 43 amps briefly, the watts at that time may have been higher but I was using an old 5c 2200 3s so the volts may well have been on the low side. Just as an aside, I was reminded yesterday that if you fit a 'reverse rotation' prop, it has a tendency to undo the prop nut....

Can we have a go at 'reverse engineering' this? On the original Chinese motors supplied with the kit, turning 3 blade master 10x7s, with a 3s I got a steady- 250 watts 24 amps 10.3 volts .57aH 899 uS (?) what ever that is... all I want is a little more top speed....while keeping the same props, if possible, but certainly 3 bladers, maybe 9" dia and less pitch if necessary. so, what 'spec' motors do I need to look for? Edited By Yorkman on 08/05/2014 11:38:51

ok, I've just connected the first 50amp esc up, and I've fitted the props that came with the model, which have much less area than the master ones. On 3s a quick 'burst' to full throttle showed 43amps and 308 watts. On 2s not fully charged, 33amps and 200+ watts.

just did a quick measure/calculation- 25.8 oz/sq ft

what does that chart actually tell us?

It seems I vastly over-estimated the amount of motor I need. I have to say that all the numbers associated with brushless motors mean very little to me, so I've been going by 4 criteria- weight, watts, amps and kv and I have come up with this- **LINK** what does anyone think?

yes, I know all that! It does take some landing, needs plenty of power all the time and has to be flown onto the ground. And I realise more performance isn't going to reduce the tendency to tip stall-tho it might get me away from danger a little more quickly! As I've said a couple of times now, I needed to change motors as the originals have been bent and (almost) straightened too many times now, but I've over-estimated my requirements-working with no info about the original motors hasn't helped...

**LINK** It flew ok, but I have been caught out a couple of times with tip-stalling when landing, and a comment from an observer on its first flight was that it looked slow. I needed to fit new motors after the last crash, so decided to add a little more performance...it just seems that I'm trying to add too much more...

I just bought these motors....seems I over-estimated the kv required! Is it possible, if I for example, went down to 9x5 3 bladers and got the amps down nearer the mark, to then 'tune' the Tx using the endpoint setting to get the current draw within limits?

ok, seem to be drifting away from my original query! I assume from the motor spec that the power train should be set up so that the motor is drawing no more than 36amps? So, assuming I achieve this by reducing pitch or diameter of the props-is a 50amp ESC ok? Incidentally, just out of interest-what does that 'max amps' figure actually mean?