Yorkman
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Everything posted by Yorkman
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Model is 54" span, weighs just over 4lb. When I measured the original setup one motor was running 25amps, 250 watts, so 500 watts total. What I am looking for is more airspeed-she leapt off the ground no trouble, but had no top speed. And I needed to replace the motors as one got rather bent in the last 'too low and slow' incident...
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That was full throttle. I'm changing the motors for more performance, as was a bit slow on the original setup. Wondering now if I might have gone a little too high on the Kv on the motor. It was running master 10x7 three-bladers on 3-cell Lipo.. Master 10x5s are available, but will that put me back to where I started?
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I'm sure I just replied to this, but the post just disappeared... I have run both the motors on the 30amp ESCs. The first I saw a peak of 43 amps before it expired, the second one I kept below 30amps, which was about half throttle. Does the fact I saw 43amps mean I'm going to need to re-prop it?
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I've just bought two of these- **LINK** for my Mosquito, now I need new ESCs cos only have 30amp ones for the original motors. As you can see, Giantshark are recommending 70amp items-for a motor that supposedly draws a maximum 35.8 (very precise!) amps.... Just read a thread on here that recommends 20% headroom, which sounds good, but even being generous with one's calculations that only comes to 45amps..... So-would 50amp controllers do the job? Going up to 70s really pushes the size, weight and cost up. Interested to hear what anyone thinks.
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where are all those DC3s going???
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Just bought the 9ch Tx/Rx from Giantshark as I needed more channels than my Dx6i can give me and decided to give it a try. Has anyone else got one of these, or is it the same as something else out there? The Chinglish in the instructions is giving me some trouble-specifically 'Flaptrim' it says- 'Flap-trim may also be used as the primary flap control in flight by doing so you can assign CH6 to a 3-position switch.....' But it doesn't tell you HOW to assign it.... Any ideas anyone?
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Just bought a flysky 9ch Tx and 2 8ch rx from GiantShark-rx's are £8.95 each. Save yourself the hassle and get one of them?
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Anyone know of a source for quicklinks with a 1mm dia fitting hole-as used on the Art-tech models? Cheers
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No mention of FSK? Or are they a little small? Their Mk IV Mosquito is, in my humble opinion, the closest to scale Mossie I have seen. And I've looked at a few.....
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Didn't expect to start such a lively conversation when I broached this subject! I'm now thinking that after initial 'bind' I may have had to reverse the 'gear' channel-haven't had chance to fiddle yet, will report back. On the subject of Tx or Rx first-I only fly electric, so it's Tx on, double check throttle fully closed and u/c selector 'as required'. I know it shouldn't happen with 2.4, but in the 'old' 35mHz days, nearby frequencies certainly had an effect if one's own Tx wasn't on, servos chattering and moving-could be entertaining with a lekky model standing on its own wheels....
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I'm pretty old-school in that way, in that I always power up Tx first, and always do a 'full and free' check before the off-once saw a guy launch his slope soarer without the Rx switched on....and then do it again the same afternoon! I will try rebinding, seems like a plan! Thanks.
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Hi all I've fairly recently acquired an Art Tech/Horizon Hobbies Mosquito (as seen on ebay) and with some tweaking I'm pretty pleased with it. One annoying thing, and I don't know if it's the model or the radio, is that when the flight battery is connected the u/c operates through one complete cycle. If they are retracted when connection is made then they extend and retract at normal speed. If they are extended then they 'slam' up and then extend slowly. The retract servos operate via a sequencer which opens/closes the gear doors, I don't know if this is a factor. The other servos 'kick', but I think that's normal. I'm using a Dx6i and AR 6200(?) rx. My only other model with retracts is the York, I remember that the retract servos also 'kick' on that, but they don't move through a complete cycle. Anyone else suffer from this, or know why it does it, or how to cure it?
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how to bind to parkzone um mosquito?
Yorkman replied to Yorkman's topic in Indoor Models, Ultra Micros and Small Park Flyers
Cool thanks what's the bind plug for then...? -
I have just acquired a s/h mossie from ebay and it has no instructions-how does one carry out the binding process,bearing in mind there is no access to any of the internals as far as i can see? Cheers
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I have to say it just doesn't look right to me.....the size of the fin and the shape of the nose...having just scratch built one I know how difficult it is to get the shape of the nose right! I still think the Flying styro kit is the best looking Mosquito kit out there Edited By Yorkman on 21/11/2010 09:47:10
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Sorry guys, we seem to have got a bit confused over what question needs answering here! I understand that 'dualaileron' can not be used with the AR500, and that mixing to the gear channel works (which is what I've done, sorted, so everyone stop posting about that! ) This is what I'm confused about- Posted by Pete B on 12/09/2010 18:56:08: You don't need to use Mix 1 if you use Dualaileron. (Presuming you now have a 6-channel Rx and not the AR500 - not being told which really doesn't help!) Go to Travel Adjust. The starboard aileron is Aile (Ch 2) and the port aileron is Flap (Ch 6).** If you want differential, go to Differential and dial in the percentage you want. It's all in the manual- not that it's the best-written manual I've ever encountered.............. Pete Not the clearest manual ever.... It's all obvious now-I've just looked at one of my 6ch Rxs-I'd forgotten that it's 'Aux 1' on the Rx and 'Flaps' on the Tx... Edited By Yorkman on 13/09/2010 07:20:26
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Posted by Hamish McNab on 12/09/2010 18:10:08: Hopefully an expert will follow on but in the meantime you can try, as I have. Connect the second servo into "Gear". In Mix 1, make Aileron the Master and Gear the slave. That's what I've done now-but my question, without getting a Rx involved even-is how one programs the two ailerons separately once 'dualaileron' is enabled?
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I want to put separate aileron servos in my latest Mossie (I'm having a go at a scratchbuild, but that's another story!). According to my Dx6i manual, and I quote- 'Dual Ailerons require the use of one servo for each aileron and allow the use of ailerons as flaps or spoilers. This function also allows the precise independent adjustment of up and down travel, and independent sub-trim and differential of each aileron.' Well, can anyone tell me how? I have discovered that it's not going to work with the AR500, as the two aileron connections are hard-wired in the rx itself (Why???), but, after enabling Dualaileron on the Tx, there is nothing in the programming to suggest there are now two separate servos to adjust-in subtrim, d/r&expo, travel adjust there is only one 'aile' available for adjustment......???????? Can anyone tell me how this is done, before I rip the Rx out of the York?
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Posted by Bob Moore on 21/08/2010 13:14:25: Interesting stuff. I like to stand behind the model because some of mine don't track very straight and it's much easier to see any slight deviation and catch it before it gets out of control. It's the pilots eye view I suppose. I 've been told by an instructor that I should stand to the side (we don't have a pilot box we kind of stand together near our pits?) We are supposed to shout 'on the strip' strip clear etc. Well I do at any rate! Next time he mentions it I'll mention the BMFA A guidelines which someone mentioned a way back. PS Only passed my A a couple of months ago. Exactly! Especially with a multi-engined taildragger with 'scale' performance -and the York is actually quite benign in this respect, dad's DC3 which I tried and failed to get off the ground a few years back (it sits awaiting u/c strengthening and brushless upgrade) wanted to swap ends as soon as it started to move...
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Interesting range of views-across the extremes. For myself, I have never been a club member, so haven't 'had' to comply with local rules. I can see that standing in the pilots' box to takeoff as well as land is the sensible, safer thing to do-especilly with i.c.engined models-that are usually airborne within a couple of seconds and don't really have a 'ground roll' as such! And make hearing a shouted warning much harder. I have only flown electric power, and when the York first flew 6 years ago, conserving every volt in its twin nicad packs was essential-taxying never happened! Also I would challenge anyone out there to stand 30 yards off its starboard bow and get it off the ground pointing within 40 degrees of where you initially aimed-certainly at the strip I fly it from. It needs FULL starboard rudder at initial roll (to counteract the torque from four geared motors?)is VERY sensitive to any crosswind component, and with a bumpy surface, usually with quite long grass, needs plenty of correction before reaching flying speed-which takes a good 40 yards or so. If I ever found myself at one of these places that 'insisted' I takeoff from the box, I would have to apply for special dispensation!
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Flew dad's Bombay a couple of times today.The field I fly from locally has a patch of short grass about the size of a tennis court-plenty for the Bombay to ROG, but landings usually end up in the tussocks and thistles so tend to be rather abrupt. After the second takeoff I decided to land again and move the battery forward (it's still in the 'proving' stage), so after another carrier-style landing, off we went again. It was immediately obvious something was seriously wrong-despite all my efforts, it was determined to turn hard left. Initially I thought I had lost a prop/motor as when I reduced power I got some directional control back, but then as I throttled back further, it started to turn irresistibly the other way. I was by now fighting to hold on to it-increasing power gave some directional control but needed loads of down elevator to keep the thing level, roll and yaw control was marginal, to say the least. Priority 1-get it back on the ground! I managed to coax it around until it was pointing towards the field, but as I reduced power, it started turning right, towards the road...and hedge. It was no good, I had to abort before she spiralled into the tarmac or hawthorn. Power on and she leapfrogged the hedge, with me barely in control-I thoght for a moment I would lose her in the next field. Managed to hang on and get her turned back-this time towards the 'fat' part of the field, and with huge control inputs and much juggling of the throttles thumped her down in the thistles. As you can see, the port fin had detached itself from the tailplane, and was laying over causing the rudder to act as an elevator and giving who-knows-what kind of yaw input! Just happy to have saved her, with a couple of minor repairs, to live another day...with scale, structural fin bracing struts fitted!
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