Boomerang U/C

[Phil 9]

The U/C on my seagull boomerang has had to take a few heavy landings recently.

(mostly due to enginge trouble dead stick landings I may add)

But after being bent back a few times it has gone a little soft. So now even a normal landing will bend it out of shape (it that bad even setting iy up in the pits leaves it a little flat)

Any advice on stiffening it up ?

[Kelly]

Hi Phil,

 

You could make a set out of good quality piano wire or convert to a tail dragger.

 

I personally prefer a tail dragger,  no nose wheel to dig in on my rough strip  .

 

The Boomerang is a trainer, the U/C should be stronger, an issue Seagull have not  addressed  yet

 

[Ernie]

Hi Phil,

 I'm with Kelvin on this. Make a strong fixing point right at the back, and fix a tail wheel, or skid. You can even make the wheel steerable.

You will need to move the main UC forward, so again you need to find or make a strong fixing point. A wee bit of surgery will probably be needed.

 

If you want to keep the noseleg; Bin the old one and buy a good replacement.

 

ernie

 

[Phil 9]

Is it just poor quality wire or is it just too thin?

I could remake the U/C from piano wire but if I use thicker stuff it will not fit the accessories. That means new wheels collets nose leg steering arm.

I could remake it using same thickness but would this solve the problem? (it would if piano wire is stronger than the wire that comes with the kit)

I really dont want to make it a tail dragger I am happy with the set up ( well if it would stay in place that is)

But as it is now it does get a little annoying

[BB]

Why not wire 'n braze in, a horizontal tension bar approx 2/3 down each U/C leg, (like a letter A , as you look at the model from the front.  This will stiffen up the UC and stop the legs moving apart.

 

If you can't braze/weld or solder.  Use a decent file and lightly, but firmly 'score' the chrome and fix tension bar with good wire and epoxy.

 

The wire used on the Boomerang & Arising Star isn't of the best quality.  Also, attempt/practice smoother glide path to touch down transitions

 

BB

Edited By Basildon Biggles on 28/03/2010 12:39:11

[Phil 9]

Some good ideas there thanks all

[Myron Beaumont]

I would never use Chinese piano wire if I was restringing MY piano . I'd never be able to tune it for any length of useful time

If it's possible -Just heat cheapo wire to a fairly bright red heat for about 2 minutes minimum & plunge into oil .After that -Clean up the surface 'til bright -Heat up again 'til it's a cross between straw & light blue coloured for as long as you can keep it that way & then plunge into water !  (hardening & tempering it's called)

It won't have the same properties as proper (drawn)  piano wire but should be OK for an U/C

Makedomoron

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Stephen Grigg]

I have to admit that my Boomerang was given a hard time by me but did its job extremely well.I disagree that the under carriage is to weak.Yes it bends,and it staightens but the model doesnt get damaged because of this.When it became a bit soft I just replaced it.I did fix the front wheel as that helped keep it straight.I was going to ritire it but unfortunately I destroyed it  40 feet up a tree.Took 2 evenings to find it.No wings a floppy fuselage but the under carriage was fine,that was part of the wings that were left

[Phil 9]

Well I re made the U/C

I used the original as a pattern and using the same gauge piano wire bent the wire into shape.

I am hoping the better quality wire will solve the problem. It is a little stiffer than the original but there is still plenty of spring to soak up the bumps. If it proves to be too bouncy I shall add a brace as Biggles suggested.

[RonSpencerUK]

The only thing I dislike about my Boomer is the weedy undercarriage. Not confidence making for a learner!

 

The u/c on the WOT types get good reviews; has anyone of those work on a Boomer ?