Martin_H Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I recently bought a Turnigiy LiPo and was having trouble achieving a neat joint between the Deans connector and the batteries 12G noodle wire. No problems fitting bullet connectors to noodle wire so perhaps maybe combining the two would solve my dilemma. Soldering the bullet connector to the Deans spade then soldering the noodle wire to the bullet wire fixed the problem. This is how I did it: I drilled a 1/16 hole through the bullet close to the end as possible I tinned the deans connector with a good glob of solder Pushed the bullet onto the deans connector then soldered the two together using the 1/16 holes I drilled earlier to bridge between the bullet and the deans connector Repeat for other spade and bullet Solder noodle wire to the end of the bullets (remember to slide heatshrink over the noodle wire first!). Make sure the battery polarity is correct and heatshrink as you go to prevent shorts Heatshrink finishes off the job! I got so excited I made a second set! Edited By Martin_H on 31/03/2010 04:14:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Pardon my ignorance, but what is noodle wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 Hi Doug, Noodle wire is that very fine multi multi strand wire - it is very flexible, like a wet noodle, hence the nickname... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Ah yes, I know the stuff you mean. The method I've used in the past to solder this wire is to strip back more insulation than needed, whip the strands together with a fine tinned copper wire then tin the whole thing. The newly tinned end can then be cut to length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 Nice! I find, though, that tinning the wire results in capillary action drawing most of my solder up into the wire... I tin the bullet connector and with the iron still in contact plunge the wire into the end, feeding extra solder as required through the little hole in the side of the connector. That seems to keep the solder close to the end where I need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I wondered what the 1/16 hole was for. Cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 The are lots of ides for making deans connectors work. That is because that have lots of problems. the main on being they are very stiff to disconnect.I solved the problem of Deans plugs by not using them as IMO the are rubbish.Power pole connectors are good. But I recently switched to multiplex connectors because they are more compact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I have some concerns about what you are doing here. I use deans connectors, and I know that they can be very stiff to disconnect. (I roughen up the plastic in order to make it easier.) However all the force is still being applied to the plastic, not directly the metal. By fixing the tubes onto the deans connectors you are making it more likely that the user will pull and push the connectors by using the add-ons rather than the plastic. The add-ons extend the leverage that can be applied to the connector's metal parts. I do not know about the design strength of the connectors, but care should be taken. Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Skeldon 1 Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Hi, I recently saw a great tip for uncoupling these connectors. Drill a small diameter hole part way into each of the two halves, but ensure that you do not go as deep as to touch the metal inside the palstic casing. Then when they are connected they can be removed easily and without any stress by using a pair of circlip pliers. HTH Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hammond Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 The new Deans connectors with grips are much better and available from Giantcod at a very good price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 I haven't had any issues with the Deans connectors, though I am build rather solidly and wish I had a computer keyboard at least 1/2 size bigger to accommodate my fingers...I am a bit suspicious of some of the Deans STYLE connectors getting around though - these have only about half the depth of plastic on the male connector and don't give much room to grip. I only do this mod when I really have to - in most cases I can solder direct to the spade without any hassle, the method I have outlined has only been to overcome my inherent messiness when using noodle wire. For me Deans connectors are good BECAUSE they grip so well, other types of connectors that do not use friction to lock together use some other mechanical lock - Tamiya plugs for instance. All my batteries are fitted with Deans female plugs, that standardises the fit in all my applications and means I don't have to carry around different types and sizes of adapters for my charger. If Deans ever comes out with a three pin plug in a ' - l - ' configuration then I would be fitting them to the esc and motor wires!Edited By Martin_H on 31/03/2010 10:21:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I've found that taking a needle file to the plastic internal faces of the female Deans is normally enough to ease any particularly tight connector. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I like Ian's idea of using circlip pliers to split Deans plugs. If I can find my set of external pliers then I'll give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shades Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 I find a lot of people complain about Deans being stiff to disconnect. I had the same problem when I first started using them. Infact, I used to carry one side of a broken prop to lever them apart. Then I discovered the obvious course of the trouble. When soldering the wire on, especially the larger gauge stuff, so much heat is generated that the plastic starts to melt, and as you push down on the soldering iron, the terminals move slightly. The easy cure to all this fuss and frustration is to simply connect the 2 Deans together before soldering. Therefore the 2 pins stay perfectly in line. I have done this umpteen times and have never had a problem since. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BB Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Why not just cut the Deans off and connect bullets ? You seem to have done this anyway, only with Deans attached. There are a number of Deans suppliers that supply 'ribbed' deans. So the pull apart is easier. Others have drilled 1mm holes through the side wall & looped nylon fishing thread, fingersized into a loop which enables seperation.Edited By Basildon Biggles on 01/04/2010 19:28:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonSpencerUK Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Agree with Phil B and BB; Deans=pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_H Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 I guess the debate could rage ref Deans v's other connectors, just as some of us swear by mode 2 over mode 1, Futaba over JR, Spectrum over 35/36 meg. Facts are, we makes our choices and lives with it! I like Deans, they work for me and I hope my experiences and those of others will encourage people out there to continue to think 'outside the square' and be innovative in their hobby. We can be polarised (pun intended) over our choices but what it all comes down to is enjoying our hobby, the challenge of the workshop, the camaraderie of the flying field and the awe of seeing our creations in the air! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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