TH9X Transmitters

[Tony Smith 7]

Looks like they're now in stock at Giant Cod which would be great ...

FlySky FSTh9B 2.4G 9 Channel Transmitter

 

I notice they specify that its only suitable for a "hack" module, I'm not sure what that means. I would certainly want to convert mine to Frsky and I hoped you could just pop a JR compatible module into it.

 

Tony S

[Kozmyk]

I suppose one advantage of the GC FlySky Ver1 Tx is that the Ver 1 has a 35MHz antenna which won't interfere with a FrSky JR module's 2.4GHz antenna in the same way the 2.4GHz antenna fitted to the HobbyKing/Turnigy Ver 2 Tx would. i.e. one 2.4GHz ant in front of another will "steal" power from the active ant.

 

More info on FrSky conversion.

Installing the FrSky 2.4GHz DIY kit in a HobbyKing Turnigy 9X radio

[Tony Smith 7]

All this V1 and V2 terminology is very unclear. Some people use it to mean V1 = version with 35MHz aerial and separate aerial on the module, others refer to v1 and v2 versions of the main board which makes a difference when connecting a programmer. Still others have v1, v2 and v3 versions of the actual RF module with implications on receiver compatibility.

 

I don't care about the last, because I'm going to convert to Frsky, but I would definitely be looking for a v2 main board.

 

Hopefully someone who actually receives one from Giant Cod will confirm what exactly they are selling.

[GONZO]

If your interested in this Tx then give the following threads on RCGroups a look:

HERE

and

HERE

[Tony Smith 7]

By the way, what programmer are people in the UK using to blow the firmware? I need something compatible with Windows 7 x64, and I'd prefer to go by recommendation for something known to work.

[Steve W-O]

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 07/05/2011 17:02:22:
for something known to work.

 

 

 

Linux! Known to work.

 

Windows XP usually works

 

Windows 7 Haven't got the patience to wait and see if it works.

 

 

 

Much of the software I use relies on special hardware, it took 5 years for XP to become usable, so I guess in a few years time windoze 7 might be usable to.

 

I tried mine on 7, had the "right" drivers etc. but it did not complete the burn process correctly, and I had to resuscitate the TX

[Tony Smith 7]

Hmm. Linux is a closed book to me I'm afraid. I'm OK (although rusty) on C, assembler, Forth etc as programming languages, never used a Unix environment.

 

What programmer hardware do you use? Or more to the point, what would you suggest I use? I quite like the idea of having it built into the set with a USB cable to the PC when required.

[Steve W-O]

I use a mySmartUSB light from www.myavr.de

 

I also have two generic programmers from ebay that work just the same, but they have 10 ire connectors.

 

I didn't build mine in to save having to buy one for each TX.

 

 

If you are OK on C then you will be able to modify the code for yourself as well. I've taken the view that I will let others try each release for a while before I use it.

 

On 7, you may have to slow the serial speed down quite a bit on the port you use for the USB interface.

 

 

I would suggest you use the myAVR interface, it works fine with the editing software, and it is a good price.

 

I think it should work with 7, and I am sure others have it working (it is a long time ago I tried, the problems should be forgotten by now) but I am so sick of having to make things work that were working OK every time ms decides to dictate to the world, I don't bother unless I have to for work.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Tony Smith 7]

Right, I've received the bits at last. For reasons that escape me I ended up ordering the Turnigy version from HK. To go with it I've got a suitable programmer, and an Frsky DIY module.

 

Before I start on the various modifications, what should I first check on the radio? I want to make sure everything's working first.

 

 

[Steve W-O]

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 25/05/2011 08:56:24:

Right, I've received the bits at last. For reasons that escape me I ended up ordering the Turnigy version from HK. To go with it I've got a suitable programmer, and an Frsky DIY module.

 

Before I start on the various modifications, what should I first check on the radio? I want to make sure everything's working first.

 

 

 

 

 

The Turnigy version has the antenna hard wired in, which is a bit of a pain, but it can be fitted with a plug and socket if you want.

 

You say you got the FrSky DIY module, where do you intend to put it? You really need the one in a JR module, so that it can plug into the TX. With the DIY module you are going to have to find a way of mounting it and sorting the antenna.

 

So far as checking the TX, it would make sense to check it in its standard form before any mods.

Also remember to keep a copy of the original firmware before you burn it.

In side the TX, the main board is and always has been very good quality. The soldering of the wires onto the pots and switches was doubtful on the early versions, but it takes less than 5 minutes to resolder them all.

 

Check your throttle friction and stick spring settings while the case is open, just saves having to open it again later.

 

Double check the board version number, as there is a solder pad in the wrong place on the V1 board where you connect one of the programmer wires.

 

Also use the forum for any set-up queries, if you upload your eeprom image, somebody will come back with a solution within hours!

[Steve W-O]

Just fitted a white backlight to one of my TH9Xs, must say I prefer the white.

 

 

[Tony Smith 7]

Cheers. I decided to go for the internal module for neatness since I'm never going to use the set on 35MHz. I haven't fully worked out the internal details, but I was thinking to put the Frsky module right inside the main case, then use the empty module bay for the serial port, programmer interface, maybe battery charging connector etc.

 

One thing at a time. I'll check it all out using the installed radio, check switches etc. Next step will be the programmer, get the original firmware saved as you say, and get ER9X on there.

[Steve W-O]

Good idea for the empty module bay.

 

You should be able to simply slide the antenna proper out of the plastic "antenna" then slide the antenna from your module into it, maybe with some hotmelt or similar at the bottom to make sure it doesn't slide down

[Tony Smith 7]

OK .. first stage done. I was going to use it a bit on standard software, but in the event I couldn't tolerate the stupid beeps every time you press a key. It certainly rules out having a quiet play in the living room!

 

So .. ER9X now installed. With any luck I'll have the Frsky fitted tomorrow, and with even more luck maybe the wind will drop.

[Steve W-O]

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 28/05/2011 20:07:47:

OK .. first stage done. I was going to use it a bit on standard software, but in the event I couldn't tolerate the stupid beeps every time you press a key. It certainly rules out having a quiet play in the living room!

 

So .. ER9X now installed. With any luck I'll have the Frsky fitted tomorrow, and with even more luck maybe the wind will drop.

 

 

 

All plain sailing now.

 

Very nice to be able to set up the mixes and curves on the PC simulator and download them to the TX

[Tony Smith 7]

Didn't get a chance to complete the works at the weekend, but here's the switch panel test fitted to the transmitter.  Not fixed in place, so its a little out of alignment with the cut outs,

 

Edited By Tony Smith 7 on 30/05/2011 20:16:53

[Tony Smith 7]

Mine's all connected up now, some bits need to be hot-glued but I'm leaving that for the moment.

 

I celebrated by configuring a really whacky mix for my electric glider, using the top half of the throttle channel to control the motor, and the bottom quarter to bring on the airbrakes in the form of raised flapperons.

[Steve W-O]

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 02/06/2011 19:34:35:

Mine's all connected up now, some bits need to be hot-glued but I'm leaving that for the moment.

 

I celebrated by configuring a really whacky mix for my electric glider, using the top half of the throttle channel to control the motor, and the bottom quarter to bring on the airbrakes in the form of raised flapperons.

 

 

 

Good to hear.

 

You will now be able to do things that TXs costing £600plus can't do.

 

And you can do it all on the PC and upload it to the TX

 

You no longer have to worry about what your TX can do, you just have to imagine what you want, and do it!

 

It won't be long before the big names copy the idea I bet.

[Tony Smith 7]

First flights under my belt with the new set now. Only with my cheapy electric glider so far, but I think I'm ready to convert the Fun Cub now.

 

Setting up reminded me of some of the silly things with conventional sets - for example with Hitec the gliders ailerons have to be on Ch1 and 6, on the Cub they have to be Ch1 and 5.

[Steve W-O]

Yes, absolutely no limitation on this one

 

I'm as confident of mine as I could be of any TX.

 

I sometimes think that I would prefer not to use the V1 when there are many people flying, but people with Spektrums do, so I guess my worries are unfounded.

 

Are you using the simulator to set things up and write the eeprom?

[Tony Smith 7]

Yes, I'm using the simulator and EEPE to set up on the PC. I'm using Frsky radio, so no worries on that front (both my planes already had Frsky receivers).

 

I'm not happy with the battery holder, none of the AA rechargeable that we have slim enough to let me close the case. I'll need to either re-use one of my redundant NiMH flight packs, or get a couple of Lithium cells or something. I think everything's happy with 6V so 6 cell NiMH would do, or 2S lithium.

[Tony Smith 7]

Duplicate deleted

Edited By Tony Smith 7 on 05/06/2011 19:54:06

[Steve W-O]

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 05/06/2011 19:51:51:

Yes, I'm using the simulator and EEPE to set up on the PC. I'm using Frsky radio, so no worries on that front (both my planes already had Frsky receivers).

 

I'm not happy with the battery holder, none of the AA rechargeable that we have slim enough to let me close the case. I'll need to either re-use one of my redundant NiMH flight packs, or get a couple of Lithium cells or something. I think everything's happy with 6V so 6 cell NiMH would do, or 2S lithium.

 

 

I'm using 3s lipos, no problems. 8 AA cells are higher voltage.

 

A 2s would be just as good, maybe better as it would be smaller, but as the regulators are linear, I decided to go for 3s.

 

I never tried the AA battery pack, before I got the lipos, I just used a standard NiMh TX pack

[Kozmyk]

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 05/06/2011 19:51:51:

I'm not happy with the battery holder, none of the AA rechargeable that we have slim enough to let me close the case. I'll need to either re-use one of my redundant NiMH flight packs, or get a couple of Lithium cells or something. I think everything's happy with 6V so 6 cell NiMH would do, or 2S lithium.

 

I had the same problem with the battery holder.

I DID manage to close the lid in it after a fight that involved bending the lid so the lugs would catch.

However, a knock or pressure to the lid would result in a momentary loss of power so that was no good at all.

I went with a pair of these for my two 9Xs:

ZIPPY 1800mAh 9.9V LiFePo4

They hold a charge for ages and recharge quickly when they need it.

Comparable voltage to NiMh so no hot regulators or faffing about with comparator resistors. to change the alarm voltage.