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TH9X Transmitters


Steve W-O
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I am going for a lower voltage than that, no point in burning more volts than necessary. Either 6 x NiMH, or 2 x Lithium Ion. The alarm can be set in software, so that's not a concern.
 
I did once manage to the the case closed with rechargeable AAs fitted, but it was so tight I was convinced I'd have to break the lugs to get it open again. The other concern with the holder is that the slightly fatter rechargeables don't slide freely, so make poor contact.
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Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 06/06/2011 18:42:39:
I am going for a lower voltage than that, no point in burning more volts than necessary. Either 6 x NiMH, or 2 x Lithium Ion. The alarm can be set in software, so that's not a concern.
 
I did once manage to the the case closed with rechargeable AAs fitted, but it was so tight I was convinced I'd have to break the lugs to get it open again. The other concern with the holder is that the slightly fatter rechargeables don't slide freely, so make poor contact.
 
 
 
The regulators in mine don't get hot at all, even with the adittion of the backlight (haven't measured what draws, but being LEDs probably around 30mA only)
 
If you used 8 alkalines you would be over 14V when new.
 
The biggest problem I see is that there area couple of capacitors across the battery supply at the regulators, and these are only rated at 16V, should be OK, but a bit close for comfort.
 
I agree about the alarm, Idon't mind what the voltage reads,so long as the alarm goes off with plenty of flying time left On a full battery that is well over 12 hours, I'm sure I would go flat before the battery.
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That's the battery pack fitted, using a pair of commodity "protected" Lithium Ion 18650 cells as sold by all the torch places. I've wired an XT60 connector for charging. USB port for PC upload/download also visible. I ran out of hot melt glue, so there's still some strain relief needed. I've set the alarm to 7.0, but I need to do a test to see how low I can go. The Frsky is happy with 5V, but I'm not sure what the drop is on the main board regulator.
 

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Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 11/06/2011 18:56:47:
That's the battery pack fitted, using a pair of commodity "protected" Lithium Ion 18650 cells as sold by all the torch places. I've wired an XT60 connector for charging. USB port for PC upload/download also visible. I ran out of hot melt glue, so there's still some strain relief needed. I've set the alarm to 7.0, but I need to do a test to see how low I can go. The Frsky is happy with 5V, but I'm not sure what the drop is on the main board regulator.
 

 
 
 
 
You have a linear 5V regulator on the main board.
 
The minimum voltage drop across that will be around .65V, but it will probably drop out of regulation between 6V8 and 7V2, or even 7V4 if it is a "cheap" regulator. On a very good regulator (ultra low dropout) it could be as good as 6V5, and even stay regulated at 6V.
 
That doesn't mean the voltage will rise or fall a long way off 5V, more likely the transient response time will increase, and the fluctuations greater.
 
Many people are using 2s batteries though, and I haven't seen any problems reported.
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  • 1 month later...
It looks like the latest firmware release will support independent trims for flight modes, which was one of the outstanding requests.
 
As with other functions it has been done as a completely open-ended function not limited to flight modes. For example I will use that on my Fun Cub so that in-flight trimming with the flaps down won't affect normal trim.
 
 
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Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 15/07/2011 10:17:11:
It looks like the latest firmware release will support independent trims for flight modes, which was one of the outstanding requests.
 
As with other functions it has been done as a completely open-ended function not limited to flight modes. For example I will use that on my Fun Cub so that in-flight trimming with the flaps down won't affect normal trim.
 
 
 
 
 
Sounds very good, though I won't have time to look for quite a while.
 
I can see this going where the big names will have to follow
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  • 2 months later...
I have read through this thread initially with a view to buying one of these sets and ended up thinking why bother.
 
I agree that the various trimming options open to you are a great facility. But to get the best from this radio I have to learn to program in C, wait for windows 7 to be approved by the linux fraternity, then spend hours soldering and modifying.
 
I spent 20 minutes reading the hitec Aurora manual and guess what?
 
Yep it pretty much can do all the things this modified TX can do and with a touch screen to boot.
 
Gents I applaud your efforts and pioneering approach, but this radio set in it's native format is pretty much a non runner.
 
 
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Posted by Ian Skeldon 1 on 11/10/2011 22:35:56:
I have read through this thread initially with a view to buying one of these sets and ended up thinking why bother.
 
I agree that the various trimming options open to you are a great facility. But to get the best from this radio I have to learn to program in C, wait for windows 7 to be approved by the linux fraternity, then spend hours soldering and modifying.
 
I spent 20 minutes reading the hitec Aurora manual and guess what?
 
Yep it pretty much can do all the things this modified TX can do and with a touch screen to boot.
 
Gents I applaud your efforts and pioneering approach, but this radio set in it's native format is pretty much a non runner.
 
 
 
 
I would agree, not the one for you.
 
 
Would point out though:-
 
You don't have to be able to programme in C, or even know what it is.
 
Don't know what the Linux fraternity approving windoze 7 has to do with it.
 
Hours soldering? In the 20 minutes it took you to read the Hitec manual, I could have added a socket to two of them.
 
In its native form, it will still do as much as any big brand TX that costs 5 times its price
 
 
I think everyone would agree that it initially takes a little effort, but after that, no more than any other TX.
 
I am very pleased with mine, and I like the feel of it to hold and use, the quality is fine, the very first one (two years ago, issues now addressed) I had I spent five minutes resoldering the switches etc.
 
Being able to set up all the mixes etc on the PC and send it to the TX is a very useful feature, which I'm sure will be followed by others.
 
 
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Posted by Ian Skeldon 1 on 11/10/2011 22:35:56:

I agree that the various trimming options open to you are a great facility. But to get the best from this radio I have to learn to program in C, wait for windows 7 to be approved by the linux fraternity, then spend hours soldering and modifying.
 
I used a plug-in programmer board, no soldering or other modifications are needed for that to work. The drivers for Windows 7 (both 32 and 64 bit) are provided.
 
Strictly I think its is C++ that the code is written in, but you don't need to know that to use the code anymore than you need to worry about what language the code on the Aurora is written in. You are maybe misled by the term "programmer" being used for the interface that transfers data between the PC and the transmitter.
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Hi,
 
Steve w-o just to clarify, I got the impression from reading posts from you, that updates were written in C, therefore anyone wishing to get hands on and tweak the updates would need to know how to program in C. I stand corrected on that point.
 
Again in one of your posts you said that whilst updating with Windows 7 you killed your TX. Your quote then went on to indicate that Linux always work, hence the need for windows to become accepted by Linux peeps etc.
 
I have experience of intricate soldering but I am no where near as fast as you, I guess your more confident in what your doing so it would be much quicker for you.
 
OK so in native format it could still be a very useful set and I certainly agree that the bigger more established brands don't offer the same value for money, so maybe just maybe it could still be of interest to me (I'm not made of money).
The (potential issues) are that not everybody has the skill or references to carry out mods such as you have done. An even bigger issue (potentially) is that in the event of a crash/accident your BMFA insurance is likely to be void because you have carried out the modifications. This of course would apply to any radio set.
 
Tony Smith 7, Thank you, you make it sound a lot easier than I had initially thought.
 
As I said, I genuinely applaud the efforts of both of you and others who make the hobby more interesting and available to others.
 
Ian
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Posted by Ian Skeldon 1 on 13/10/2011 12:58:57:.
...
An even bigger issue (potentially) is that in the event of a crash/accident your BMFA insurance is likely to be void because you have carried out the modifications. This of course would apply to any radio set..
...

Is that really the case? I wonder why they would worry about a modeller adapting his transmitter, but not about making the same sort of modifications to an airframe. (or even designing and building an airframe from scratch). I sometimes think that sort of "liability culture" will be the death of any activity where self-reliance used to be required. Maybe in a couple of years we won't be allowed to fly anything other than CE marked RTF models, with any modification needing to be signed off by the BMFA.

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I don't know for sure what the BMFA point of view is, but I think I read that modifiications should not be carried out by individuals. My apologies if this is not correct.
 
 
I think this TX could be a great buy if the reliability is as good as claimed. The point I tried to make, is that most fliers and myself included, don't normally buy our equipment and then take the back off to inspect the state of the internal wiring, maybe we should though, and maybe that approach would be a healthier if it was encouraged by bodies such as the BMFA.I have learned a lot of useful information from reading posts from people such as yourself and Steve w-o.
 
Ian
 
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Couple of points.
 
The updates are written in C, but they probably are for other big brand names as well, as many use the same CPU and the compilers compile from C usually
 
The use of windoze 7 when it corrupted the TX memoery was quite a while ago, I was then using the burning software supplied by the interface manufacturer, it must be nearly a year now that I have been using the ER9X software to edit the TX mixes and burn the firmware.
 
(I have to use Linux to use Asda's shopping site too, as all the windoze 7 machines in the house won't go past the first page on search results)

I don't believe the insurance aspect would come into it, it's a point that crops up with many threads.
I update my TX by connecting to a PC, other big names update by copying the files to an SD card, then putting that in the TX to update it.
The only mod I made was to add wires for the PC connection, doesn't in any way affect the operation when flying.
 
I did say that it was the early ones that a few had QC problems on the soldering, and that it has now been resolved.
 
The transmitter under a different name, but exactly the same is sold in Europe, and the TX module is CE marked.
 
I have opened other better known makes and found poor quality assembly, switches that commonly fail, pots that fail quite often.
 
The majority of the parts in any make are off the shelf, and used in many makes, so you could have a bad one anywhere. Some makes use a higher quality component in the first place, and this is of course reflected in the price tag.
 
The modifications made would not take any operation outside of legal limits (such as modifying the TX for higher output)
 
I have seen no reason why I should not rely on the equipment, and in use it has given me no cause for doubt.
 
Maybe you could order one from HK to have a look at, they were about £60, a very small sum for what it does even out of the box, and if you took one look at it and didn't like it, put it on ebay, you won't lose much, maybe even make a little
 
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Question for Ian, but I guess it would apply to any of the £200+ transmitters and not just the Aurora. Could these have created the control that I setup for my electric glider? I have the throttle stick operating airbrakes over the bottom part of the travel, and motor over the top part (with a dead band between, and a little bleep to warn me that any further up travel will start the motor).
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Hi Steve w-o, Hi Tony,
 
Thanks for the feedback. I admit that I use Ubuntu a fair bit and have to say how good it is, but it's not as user friendly (quite) as Windows. I certainly like the plus points and I will get one of these from HK. Let you know how that goes when it arrives.
 
Tony, the Aurora would do what you have done in two ways although I don't know about the use of a bleep. Firstly and the easiest way would be to use a Heli setup and use the P curve and the T curve to give this feature. Secondly and probably the correct way would be to use assigned programmable mixing, again I don't know about the beep though.
 
I think I have misunderstood some earlier parts of the thread and thus thought that the extra work carried out by both of you was a requirement rather than just pushing for even greater features.
 
PS I think the 'white' backlight looked the best and will be asking on how to achieve this once I have the tx.
 
Many thanks to both of you.
 
Ian
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Cheers. It actually wouldn't have occurred to me to use a Heli setup for a glider but without being a heli expert that sounds right in that the stick would control collective and power via two independently adjustable curves. I suppose that's why I prefer open-ended programming, rather than named turnkey functions.
 
Back to the TH-9X, as shipped I understand that it has pretty basic capabilities. To get it working properly you want the "Smartie Parts" addin board which adds the programmer and also a backlight with no soldering required. Then install "eepe" on your PC and you're ready to pop ER9x firmware onto the transmitter.
 
In fact, its worth installing eepe right now, and have a play with the simulator which lets you test out mixes and control assignments on the PC.
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Thanks Tony,
 
So where can I get "Smartie Parts" addin board from?
 
Am I right in saying "eepe" is available as a download? If so where from please.
 
Many thanks,
 
Ian
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When I looked at HK the day after I posted, they were back in stock, but they may be out again, they go very quickly.
 
Best to order on backorder, then you can be sure of getting one in case all the new stock goes quickly.
 
Order the back light at the same time, it saves postage. It works well, only problem is I still can't see the plane in the dark, or the runway.
 
If you order the Smartiparts board, you don't need to order the backlight, as it comes with one.
 
Fitting the programming connections is very straight forward for any one with good soldering skills, used to working on modern PC boards, and my plug does not have a hole cut in the outside of the base, I put mine in the battery compartment.
 

 

 
My programmer was about £12 if I remember correctly, and I use it on all the TXs, the reason why I did not go the add-on board route, as I would need one for each TX.
 
I agree it is worth reading all you can, forums included, on ER9X, but when you have a problem, the forums provide answers within minutes usually

Edited By Steve W-O on 19/10/2011 05:21:05

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Thanks Steve w-o,
 
Yes I looked the same evening and they were back out of stock again.
 
Your mods look very neat and once I have everything needed I will indeed carry out the same mods so many thanks to both you and tony.
 
Ian
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  • 2 months later...
For the most up to date information on the 9x, check:
 
 
It is about as current as anything!
 

Edited By Rob Thomson Slopeside / Aerohut on 16/01/2012 17:12:40

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  • 3 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Hi Steve W-O and Tony Smith 7,

I have finally been on HK website when they are showing some stock of this radio and have ordered one, along with some cheap ($9) rx's which are shown as fully compatible. So in the near future I will be trying out this radio in a state of unmodified to begin with. Questions that I do have are below,

Q1 Does this radio provide a good range of standard features out of the box or does it need to be connected to a PC to achieve any mixing at all?

Q2 If it needs to be connected to a PC is it best to make or buy a cable for connection?

Many thanks for pointing out the many good points of this radio and hopefully I will be using it very soon.

Ian

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