Beechcraft Bonanza C35

[Vecchio Austriaco]

This will be a strange building thread. I am going to build a model I didn't really  select as my next project, and also I still have another build to be finished. So it will be an "in between" project and it should be ready by the end of the year - as in January my unfinished Extra will arrive - and my flat is too small to build 2 models in parallel (especially if I look at the size of the extra).

 

So - why this model? As my current flat is a temporary place and I didn't even purchase a TV I am quite bored during the evenings. Also I didn't fly a lot and therefore nothing needs repair

So my plan was to purchase the Jamara Pitts as I didn't fly a proper bi-plane so far - only foam versions like the Sebart Challenger S.

 

But: Delivery problems at the main street shop, not sure if and when it will arrive, so I left the shop with a Bonanza. First non aerobatic model since a long time, so I am planning to build it as nice as possible and go into a semi-scale direction with retracts and lights.

 

So-thats the start - first photos will arrive tomorrow.

Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 23/11/2010 14:05:28

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

Looking forward to what you make of it. Still haven't flown mine yet, needed to mow my strip but my mower broke down after 5 mins. I don't fancy hand launching this one on my own.

[Vecchio Austriaco]

I created a building board which fits on my launch table (its the only table in the flat - tells something about the size...) and started using the highly recommended super phatic glue.

This is what has been created Monday evening, not much, but if I think that I was coming home from work just around 9 I am quite happy with the result

 

Tuesday evening went quite well, there was no problem in identifying the parts, even I have to say that the booklet should be reprinted with upgraded photos. Obviously they were taken from some prototype series and some of the parts have changed shape slightly. But using the supplied drawings it works fine.  

Later some trouble was on its way - the parts of the cowl were really made from brittle material and the designer of these parts didn't have a brainwave when he positioned the bits which hold the part in the board exactly at the narrow bit. I tried to cut them out using a good quality X-acto like knive with a new blade but I ruined 2 of the pieces. So out with the good old fretsaw - something I should have done from the start.

The broken bits - not a big problem to fix them but it is an unnecessary work thanks to the bad design of the laser cut parts.

 

 

 

Even facing this little problem I still enjoy the work, the parts are really accurate and it is easy to put everything together. 

 

Just one word about the glue: I am not happy with the super phatic glue and switched to cyano on the second evening as I have the feeling the aliphatic glue doesn't really set. it always has the consistency of old chewing gum where a normal PVA glue - also this is an aliphatic glue - sets and gets hard after about an hour. Super phatic glue is messy also on the next day, the wood is sticky where it was in contact with the glue and I don't trust this glue if it comes to parts which are under mechanical tension. Also it makes sanding a nightmare. Did I do something wrong?

 

Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 24/11/2010 08:57:11

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

Looking good. I like SuperPhatic, and don't have the problems you are experiencing. I would say use it like cyano, but with pins and clamps.

 

Perhaps you need to give the bottle a good shake? Having said that, I always get impatient and revert to cyano as it's so quick on a cnc'd kit like this.

 

I recommend beefing up the stringers in the battery hatch, as mine ended up warping when the sheeting dried. No harm adding weight to the front.

 

 

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Vecchio, this is looking great, I like the Bonanza and look forward to seeing this one come together.

The superphatic I have behaves in the same way as yours. It remains a bit like hard dried chewing gum. It is strong though and does soak in. I don't like to sand it so I try to use it where sanding wont take place. The good thing is and this might just be me, CA just doesn't fill me with any trust when used anywhere near hardwood. Whereas superphatic or even pva works fine. The Superphatic soaks in so I would trust it. If I am gluing balsa to balsa I tend to get the CA out though lol it's quicker  and I am impatient.

 

rActive, was that becuase you sheeted the hatch rather than planking?

 

Cheers

Danny

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

Hi Danny, yes I sheeted

[Vecchio Austriaco]

Hy Danny,

 

I still use the super phatic stuff when it comes to large areas - as it allows correction. But this would also be true for standard PVA. Also I think it could be good on hardwood or foam stuff - it glues rather like one of these contact adhesives.

VA

[Vecchio Austriaco]

By the way - anybody with experience on these?

 

Turnigy R/C LED Lighting System
 has 8 LEDs , position, landing, crash protection - but - no RC switch function and it may be not bright enough. Cost less than 7£ - needs extra RC switch - which costs about 8£ So this is the low cost version. Coming from Hobby King

 

 

Or these:

 

from S.M. Services (UK)  - practically around the corner from where I live

SM 28A Strobe Lights Version 3
Price £21.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Size: width 44 mm height 18 mm depth 31 mm Weight 15gms.

As SM 28 but with constant red and green and flashing white anti collision. This unit has a seperate 4.8v supply input for led's.
The Strobe light module is designed to simulate aircraft navigation lights. Operation is controlled by the transmitter and the flash speed is adjustable in the module via a trim pot, eight single and eight double flast speeds are available. The led emitters are extreme brightness units visible in daylight

 

Those would need a second set for landing - both sets have an RC switch, total cost would be approx 40£ and it would add 30 gramm to my model.

 

Are the actual leds ofthis set too big for a 40"model?

 

Anybody with experience?

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Vecchio, I have a lighting set from Turnigy, not sure if its the same one. I will dig it out. Ordered it for my Chipmunk, but by the time it had arrived the chipmunk was finished and had flown. Never even opened the box of lights. I will try and remember where I put it and let you know what its like. Maybe a pic or too would help you decide?

Having said that the stuff from SM Services is usually worth that bit extra, but I don't know the size of their stuff I am afraid.

Cheers

Danny

[Dusty]

VA,

 

I have the Turnigy light system on my Overlander Tucan you can only see them when flying slow and it's rather dull. For the money you can't go wrong either, however you will probably have to extend some wires as I think these were designed more for indoor stuff.

 

As I say for the price you can't go wrong and it looks good on the ground!

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

Those SM leds look great (in the catalogue). No dimensions for the lights in the pdf data sheet. I think it may be tricky to build them into the wing tips as they are pretty slim. Landing light in the leading edge (right wing I think) and collision beacon would look great though.

 

Power comes from the rx right?

 

I might have to retro fit to my v35

[Vecchio Austriaco]

SM services allow both as I understood - power from the receiver or from external battery. I will try to contact them - may be I can have a look at their sets. From the postcode they must be around the corner from me.

So. now I will work a bit and later I upload the pictures to show yesterdays (non)progress.

VA

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Vecchio, I found the lighting sets, two in fact. one is a Turnigy indoor set and came in a packet. I think this is the one that Dusty has used. The other set I found is the Turnigy one I bought for my Chipmunk. I have just fired it up and actually its not too bad. I don't really think you will see it too well in the air, but as you taxi out it should be visible. I might retrofit thes on the Chipmunk now that I have seen them working 

 

I have shot a short video of the ligts in operation so you can get a better idea will be uploaded in 25 minutes so you tube says.

 

In the mean time here is a still picture of the lights.

 

Cheers

Danny

 

[Danny Fenton]

Another quick video..... no videos from me ever now three in three days

 

 

Cheers

Danny

[Dusty]

 

These are the RC lander lights used in my Mirage, they were more visiable in the air than the Turnigy ones. As Danny says the Turnigy ones are fine for darker days and on the ground!

[Vecchio Austriaco]

Thanks guys - unfortunately I cannot see any video - as there are some company restrictions....So Dusty you think the RC lander lights are more visible?

I will try to check out first the local stuff and then I will decide what to do. There is always the possibility to go for DIY - I have a lot of electronic component stuff in Italy - but packed in a removal box  

 

So what can I do: patience and DIY- buy components again and DIY - buy one of the ready sets. I will not decide that now.

 

But now to the progress report of yesterday evening:

 

I repaired the damaged parts of the cowl

I made the battery cover and put the balsa sheet on it - and found out that the tension of the sheet balsa was high enough to bend it completly. To overcome this I had to apply an extra 1.5mm blasa on the front end and shape it. will not be visible when the model is finished but it was quite a bit of extra time. You see the triangular balsa where the arrow points to.

And finally I found a place for the retract airtank. It is far back from tghe COG, so I think I will have to add some lead to my  bird. As a compensation I will try to put every electronic item into the front.

I fixed the tank with two 5mm balsa rings to the fuselage and I installed a "stopper" at the back of the tank. So even in a light crash it should stay where it is.
 

On the second picture the rings and the stopper are easier to recognize.

 

Finally the view of the fuselage and how it looks now:

I start thinking about servos - I brought all small servos over I found in my treasure chest - but unfortunately they are not the best quality and / orI do not have them in pairs. If it would have been a plane with standard stabilizer I would use different ones - on a v-tail I prefer equal ones of good quality. For the flaps or the air valve it can be also a servo which is not so precise - I have loads of those ones....  

This means I need to go to the shops again.
(I have to go in any case as I need also extension leads for the servos)

 

 

 

 

Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 25/11/2010 13:36:11

[Dusty]

Hi VA,

 

The Lander lights are not much brighter tbh! You probably better off sourcing some brighter LED's and making up your own system if you really want bright LED's...

 

The Bonanza is comming along nicely, have thought of this kit for a while now.

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

looking great VA, the rings and stopper for the air tank is good and will support the bottom stringer.

I've gone without flaps by joining the ailerons and flaps into a single strip for now. I can easily retro fit if i need/want them later.

 

I've used TG9 serovs all round, they centre well enough, although I've noticed the two in the tail are slightly uncoordinated. I will have to get them on the servo tester and find a matching pair. (more excuses not to fly it).

 

If it snows I'm going to build skis for it

[Vecchio Austriaco]

There is one TG9 servo in my treasure box - as it is alone (its brother died on some foamy crash) it will not go to the back. I will use Hitec 55 - I know them - I trust them (have 5 of them in my Seagull Edge 540 EP). The work well, and the centeriing is very good. (I am actually not too sure about the correct centering of the TG9) Centering is very important on the elevator - otherwise you get crazy with the trimming

 

The second option woud be the small digital DSP60 from Spektrum - which would help me to get the COG right as they are only 6.5g. But I saw a lot of negative comments on the net - all about jitter and bad centering - so I think I stay with the HITEC 55.

 

I will also have to reduce bulding speed a little as I would like to fit the engine into its position before I play with the cowl. And the engine is still somewhere between HK and MK.

[Erfolg]

Well! Vecchio, you seem to do better with your temporary accommodation and equipment than I can do with my pemanent set up.

 

Your problems with your Alphatic glue seems odd. Although an adhesive based on very similar chemistry to PVA (Evode type), its main attraction is that it is supposed to sand better, being harder on setting. I personally prefer standard PVA, because it is tougher, and a little rubbery. I can live with the sanding issues.

 

These Jarma? kits do seem to be very good.

 

What will you achieve once you and your family have permanent accommodation?

 

 

 

[Vecchio Austriaco]

Caefull with the skis - I ruined my Edge last year doing some aerobatics which resulted in an unexpected stall.... but with the Bonanza you will rather fly a more piecefull style and so it may work.

Here you see also one of the Hitec 55 in action (split elevator servos)

[Vecchio Austriaco]

Hi Erfolg, this is the advantage of beeing alone - I am building here much quicker than I did in Italy - and I am sure when my family is together again the building speed will be close to zero - you know - moving to a new place is always a lot of work.

 

Jamara kits - actually there are bad critics in the forums, about drawings and pictures and wood quality. So far I was fine- only the 5mm material is brittle and the designer of the parts thought rather of his girlfriend than the wood grain directions... We will see how it goes on, so far I am happy.

 

Glue: I will buy the good old PVA again for the parts which need "wet positioning". The rest I do with liquit cyano.

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

Ouch, thanks for the tip re the skis

 

Mower is still broken, so I'm going to put some "cartoon" scale wheels on mine and fly it this weekend. Who knows I might even finish work early tomorrow.

 

At this rate VA will have his up before me, and I've had my kit since April

[Vecchio Austriaco]

Day 4 - a bit of covering of the fuselage top.

 

I like how Jamara fixes the tail. Clever idea.

 

 

Finally the total view.

 Light system: I decided to go half local half DIY. Had a chat with Terry from SM services and he confirmed that his standard LEDs plus housing are too big for a 42 size model. So I decided to purchase the electronics with the leads from SM services but I will purchase the LEDs myself and make a housing which fits my plane size.

[Pat (rActive) Harbord]

Looking good VA, a note on the tail feathers; Depending on how scale you are going with this one you may wish to modify the balancing tabs (may not be the correct name) on the tips. I notice in photos that the full size has tapering to points, rather than the flat ends as per the kit

 

Photo here