WolstonFlyer Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Just waiting for glue to dry. I have got all of my formers cut out apart from a 3mm ply F1a former for the rear mounted motor to be bolted to. I am sure I have a fretsaw somewhere in the shed to cut it out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 And the last picture for today, my former F1a with the motor X mount bolted on. It is a bit rough at the moment but should sand nice and smooth once the glue is dry. This is based on the design from Phil Winks, I have used two thicknesses of 3mm ply epoxied together, this it to give enought thickness for the T nuts to grip into the wood. The X mount is off centre by 3mm to allow for the right thrust of the motor. I hope there are people following this? Should I carry on with this level of detail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I'm watching wolston! Im home from work as I broke my leg a couple of weeks ago! your build looks great I might build the tucano after I finish my nijhuis spitfire, the pain has just settled enough for me to get on with it!! Cheers woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I'm watching too james so keep on with the detail mate. going back up the page a little and there's a discussion regarding the creation of a weak point at the fuse edge using a 3 part wing. just as a little experiment but join a couple of pieces of 10mm flat sheet end grain on and make sure its kept clamped as you would when joining the wing. when fully dry try breaking the join and if the jobs done right your in for a surprise. The glue line will remain intact and the wood will break at least a few millimetres from the join and probably much more. Proving the glue line is not a weak point at all in fact it adds strength and this experiment takes not into account the strengthening effect of the ply dihedral braces. and finally if the test piece does fail at the glue line then change your choice of glue and or review your glueing procedure Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I'm watching as well, I've followed the thread all the way through. My build is now well advanced although I'm guilty of not having gone to the trouble of posting any photos, sorry! Keep going Wolston, you're setting a fine example! Wolston, I think it is worth reinforcing the leading edges, the soft wood will be vulnerable to "ding" damage and a harder material insert will help. I've used carbon fibre tube, which does the job very well. I've got the servos in and connected and everything is working. Not much detail to finish off before I cover it. Apart from the leading edge modification, I've stuck to Nigel's thinking and put the receiver and servos in the rear fuselage. I decided to front mount the 1250Kv motor. I'm arranging for air to pass all the way through the fuselage and vent towards the rear. I notice you went for belt and braces with the three piece wing and extended the dihedral braces, no harm in that. I think though that with a solid wing like this, lengthening them won't make much difference. A built up unsheeted wing is a different kettle of fish because all of the bending moments are concentrated at the leading and trailing edges and main spar. In that case the dihedral braces carry a significant load. However with a solid wing the load is distributed evenly through the whole area and the most important thing is the quality of the glue bond at the dihedral breaks. I don't think that you need to worry about twisting, it's not going to be an issue with this design. My thoughts on covering and finishing have varied, but I think I'm sticking to my original plan and will use sanding sealer, dope and tissue, followed by paint. I'm not going for the black finish, attractive though it is, because the thought of being in the air with others looking exactly the same frightens me to death! Hopefully I'm only two or three weeks away from first flight. Probably my main concern will be avoiding writing it off before Greenacres in June! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Hi Woody, thanks for following my build, I am sorry to hear that you have broken your leg I hope it starts to feel better soon. Thanks for the tip about testing a glue joint Phil, would you use Epoxy for the wing joints and then glue the ply braces in with Aliphatic resin? I am still not sure which wing design to actually use yet - I need to make my mind up soon. Colin - I did think about putting something in the leading edges, I even bought some leading edge stock to use but the first panel of balsa in my wings is already quite firm and I didn't bother using it. What size carbon tube have you used on your wings? I am also allowing air to pass all the way through the plane, I have cut a large area of F2 out and I also have a big opening in F3, I will put some round vent holes in the lower rear deck. Anyway this is my last picture for the day (or morning actually). I have epoxied the lower areas of F2 and F3 into place so no going back now! I will install the tail post next and pull the rear end together then install F1 and F1a and pull the sides in around F2 and F3, I think that will be the tricky part. I don't have a fancy building jig so need to make sure I don't end up with a bannana shaped plane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 That looks really neat Wolston, success is guaranteed! The leading edge issue isn't desperate and if your panels are reasonably firm, perhaps the l/e stock won't make much difference! The carbon fibre tube I used is 5mm. diameter and 4 or 4.5 mm. i/d. Another way (cheaper) is to use some spruce strip 4 or 5mm. which easily sands to shape when inset. That works well. The carbon fibre tube is pricey but very light as well as tough and gives a good entry profile, also I just happened to have it left over from a previous project! I must get mine finished asap because it's been a diversion from half a dozen other un-finished projects, so I'm determined this year to change my ways and finish them one at a time, then get some flying practice in! This mass build is a good idea though and I'm really looking forward to meeting other similarly afflicted pilgrims (anoraks)?! at Greenacres in June. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 James I would use a good epoxy med setting time ie: 30 mins on both the dihedral joints and for gluing in the braces much as nigel suggests in his build article I believe just make sure you scrape of any excess (and there should be a little) before it dries as it may be a pain to sand away after Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks Phil, I will go and get some 30min epoxy for the job.Tonights task will be pulling the sides in at the back to the fin post and then cutting the ply parts for your wing mod. I am starting to make good progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks Colin, I am going to give the carbon a miss but might add some spruce strip. It is a bit of a scary thought cutting into my nice shaped wings to put a strip on the LE. It will make the wing rather more ding proof.Edited By WolstonFlyer on 05/03/2013 18:26:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 It's dead easy Wolston, almost,certainly worth the trouble! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 An alternative James is to brush a little thin cyano along the le it hardens the balsa nicely though to become familiar with the technique try it on a scrap piece 1st especially as some of the ,er dubious brands bloom and crystilise like mad, though this often sands back easily, also be prepared to throw the brush after lol Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks for the idea Phil Well I didn't get the plywood parts cut out tonight, it was deemed too noisy to do in the kitchen once the kids had gone to bed. I did get the tail post installed, one tip for other builders would be to taper the fuselage sides where they meet the tail post before joining both sides onto F2 and F3, it will make life easier rather than trying to plane the chamfer with the other fuselage side in the way. Anyway, using my cut up photocopy of the plan I have used my highly technical "Tin of soup" building jig to get everything lined up and glued together. Checking everything with my little plastic square to make sure the post is plumb and with no twist etc. I think it is starting to look quite good but there is loads to do yet! Edited By WolstonFlyer on 05/03/2013 22:49:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Looking very good indeed Wolston. Meticulous detail to your work. They say that when you have finished the balsa bashing, you are nearly halfway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thanks Martin I am really enjoying the build and it feels like I am making some progress at last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi Wolston, read your post on the extra motor mount F1A what is the reason for this? I am about to consider this aspect next. Not used an out-runner before, I would have thought front mounting would have been easier? Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi MikeA few of us are using the HobbyKing Turnigy propdrive motors (see the first page of this build blog). They have a rear X mounting and an alloy prop driver that bolts onto the rotating motor body, rather than a traditional prop adapter mounting directly onto the motor shaft.In theory you can bend the soft alloy prop driver in an "arrival" and not bend the hard steel motor shaft so the motor might last longer/survive damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I am using **LINK** this motor, not sure it is a 'prop drive motor' you refer to, I plan to front mount this motor and mount the prop on the 5mm shaft - OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Hi MikeYes that motor can be rear mounted, in the second photo on your link it shows the X mount a small shaft collet, a traditional motor shaft prop adapter and a bolt on prop driver ( the silver part above the black X bracket.There is no harm in front mounting the motor they work the same either way around. I just personally think it will be easier to replace a bent alloy prop driver rather than a bent motor shaft (if the plane survives the crash LOL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Good point Wolston!! I take it if I use the alloy prop driver then I have to back mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yes that is correct.Phil Winks downloadable mod plans includes a plan for the back mount former F1a. I have made mine using his plan and it is a perfect fit. You may need to adjust the location to fit the specific motor length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Do you offset (angle) both F1 and F1A 3deg for the side thrust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 I have not installed mine yet, it's tonights job!Phil's F1a has the motor set 3mm off centre to the left (looking from the back of the plane forwards) so you could fix F1a at the angle or install it straight and shim the motor x mount with washers. I will probably fix F1 straight to the end of the fuselage sides and have the outer 10mm balsa spacer ring shaped to allow for the thrust angle.Just one word of caution.... this is my first ever build from plans so I am no expert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Goood luck, look forward to the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Cheers, I will post pics when I have figured it all out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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