Chris Bott - Moderator Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 There are gimbal units listed HERE Ian. Of course they're spares, but I can't see why you couldn't use them? Here's a shot from inside my Taranis. Although I'm not sure it shows anything useful at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hmm good point Gonzo. I think Paul did a version that included separate trims, but I think they were trim pots, rather than trim switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 IDD15, Digimac 1V Tx here unti 20:00 today eBay item number:171400414366 HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Phil, I have 'upgraded' my DIGIMAC IV using your Arduino system and 35MHz Hiitec module (from Al's Hobbies). Will you be releasing the extra code for Single Channel emulation? (pretty please!) Rather than drilling an extra hole for the pushbutton, thought I could use one of those ex-WD microswitches plugged into the trainer socket. Cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Richard, its the same button you use for calibration, so surely you already have one? I think a panel-mount button is better (top-right) unless you have 3 hands! Just to confirm that as it stands this particular encoder is for mechanical-trim stick units, there are no separate trim inputs. You could resistively couple trimpots (as some manufacturers did) but you'd have to experiment with resistor values, I'd guess at maybe 50k? Will post the code when its finished, theres some tidying up to do, for instance when I pinched the button for s/c, of course we lost a channel so I want to make it 6 propo + the slow-toggle. Any unwanted analogue inputs (say for a 4ch set) should simply be tied to another one that is used rather than left floating. For the stick calibration to work all the stick inputs need to be included, even if they're only mimicing another channel. The toggle could be omitted but as well as losing the channel you would also lose the single-handed range-check. Since the original post theres also the inactivity timer as well as the s/c emulation - on the 'proper' s/c sets the inactivity timer has saved my lipo twice, and once for my pal Ron! Its almost a full single-channel compound escapement emulation but I did intentionally omit the quick-blip throttle - which I thought might not be safe in this context. The rudder & kick-up elevator accurately mimics the old Elmic escapements via the button, just like a true S/C set. Its actually a mix which is applied early in the processing chain, so the variable rates work on s/c too, so you can vary the amount of movement very easily - and so does the elevon mixer if anyone is brave enough to try a S/C flying wing! Everything happens simultaneously, whilst flying 'on the button', s/c style, the propo sticks are still live as are the trims and aux functions. The s/c emulation follows any servo-reversing options of course. It would be nice to squeeze a sequential s/c option in there too (maybe). So - plenty to do - but its peak season right now so busy busy busy & not much playtime (our family business is a boarding kennels) Woof Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDD15 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Thanks for the pointers for the gimbals/sticks, should have thought about HK! Gonzo thanks for the heads up about the Digimac on fleabay. Bit surprised as to what it went for, nostalgia is not as cheap as it used to be! I've found an old 35Meg set from a (sadly) long gone JP Twister Hawk combo in the back of the cupboard so I think I might have a play around with that to start with. Also found some DT DSM2 gear on the Micron Radio Control site, including a hack TX module. All interesting stuff..... Happy days! Ian PS Phil I love the combined propo/sc all in one Tx concept. Its genius in the nicest oddest way, if you know what I mean! Taranis and open sauce eat your heart out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 You often see old mech-trim propo sets on ebay, the pots are always fine, they were made properly back then! Skyleaders, Fleets, Macgregor, Kraft, Horizon, Staveley, OS, Sprengbrook, Digiace... proper sets. Otherwise, if you must, here's the 'separate trimpot on one input' idea: I much prefer mechanical trims. Simpler, easier, more tactile. Old skool, me. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Phil, thanks for the comprehensive reply. I had put the 'cal' pushbutton on a flying lead plugged into the trainer socket on the Digimac, unplugging it after initial calibration. However, to do full justice to the available functions you have provided , I think I shall now have to bite the bullet and get the drill out and fit the extra controll pots/switches into the Digimac casing. Fortunately, the Digimac has mechanical trims Cheers, Richard ps - should I also fit a rotary switch for model selection? (only joking!) Edited By Sparks on 04/08/2014 09:42:26 Edited By Sparks on 04/08/2014 09:44:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Posted by Phil Green on 03/08/2014 22:40:14: and so does the elevon mixer if anyone is brave enough to try a S/C flying wing! Woof Phil WOW! Hair shirts and bicycle clips on the trousers for any one who has a go at that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 IDD15 If you think £16 for a Digimac IV is high keep looking and you'll see some of the older/rarer units go for hundreds. I've seen an Elmic Comander go for over £30. Bye the bye, a very tidy Futaba M6 went about the same time for £26.50. Still cheeper than obtaining sticks, box, switch etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 IDD15 The DIGIMAC would clearly justify a case like THIS to protect it. Only £149.90 to you Sir, or £6.93 direct from Hobby King - HERE. The prices on eBay never fail to amuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 01/08/2014 22:39:24 When you have 5 mins, just knock up a single channel program for Taranis would you? I dont know if its coincidence but this morning I had an email from Jean-Marie Piednoir, he's done just that, a single -channel script for the taranis! I'm going to ask if he'll post it here, it was published in the VRCS newsletter. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Bit of an update, I've added the option of 2 more propo channels either or both of which can be momentary, switched or propo, throttle-hold-off, 2 mixer options, inactivity warning, and expanded the S/C emulation mix to include sequential as well as compound operation. Heres the current (hopefully final) spec: 7 channels, 6 propo, one toggle switched with built-in servo-slow Self-calibrating sticks, saved to EEPROM during power-off - no measurements and presets needed (needs mechanical trim stick units, or resistive mixing of separate trims) Servo-reversing by holding sticks over on power-up, saved to EEPROM during power-off (throttle deliberately doesnt reverse, its a safety thing) Rates variable from 100% down to 10% via a pot, click for no rates Expo variable from none to lots via a pot , click for no expo (thanks to Paul Luby for his expo maths) Single-handed range check mode, flick the ch6 toggle three times to invoke, throttle is held off in range check mode, exit by moving stick Two-ratio switchable mixer with either 75:25 aileron:elevator for flying-wing elevons, or 50:50 mix for V-tails Servo-slow on switched channel 7 (flaps, retracts etc) Throttle hold-off toggle switch Inactivity timer, alarms after 10 minutes with no stick movement, save that lipo when you forget to switch off! No bootloader delay, instant ppm so Corona-safe! Single channel emulation mix built-in, compound (rudder & kick-up elevator) and sequential (rudder). Propo remains active during S/C operation. The Single Channel button inputs are separate but could be used in 3 ways: 1) two separate buttons, one sequential, one compound (either also does calibration) 2) (my preference) one button in series with a change-over switch to select sequential or compound 3) a two-way self-centring toggle (like a reeds toggle) with sequential one way and compound the other. The calibration will work regardless of the sequential/compound choices, as long as one button is present (can be internal if S/C emulation isnt required) The mixer was originally just an 'enable' input but now has two options via a 3-way switch: off (for normal models) , 50:50 (for V-tails) and 75:25 (for flying wings such as the Wildthing) The inactivity warning is the same buzzer & transistor driver as the Reeds Tiny-6, and alarms after 10 minutes of inactivity. Theres a throttle cut (or 'hold closed' ) toggle which overrides the throttle stick for when you're retrieving an electric model. With the exception of either one of the calibrate buttons and the PPM output, all of the other D connections are optional. If you dont want a mixer, or throttle-cut, or whatever, just omit that particular switch and the wire to that pin. On the analogue inputs however, if you wanted fewer than 6 channels, then the unused ones should be tied to the wiper of a used one. Its essential that all 6 analogue inputs see the calibration voltages so they shouldnt be left floating nor tied high or low. If expo or rates or both are not wanted, those pins (A6 & A7) should be grounded. Now I can have any or all of these options for any future conversions, with just the one common firmware I'll do a video update soon to dem the new bits. Cheers Phil Edited By Phil Green on 12/08/2014 01:28:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Just - Amazing, Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Excellent Phil! But, this could cause a housing old propo set price bubble. Should I start buying them up now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 The weird thing is, I've very little interest in flying propo, but the addition of the 'button' makes it bearable... Much as I enjoy the comments (thank you!), lets keep some perspective, its a very simple setup compared to whats available in net-land - arduinorc, Patolin, opentx, etc... but it suffices for a retro refit. The object of the exercise was to learn what an Arduino is, old dog new tricks etc, after this project I'm 'comfortable' with it Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Christy Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Phil, are either you or Shaun going to the Nats? -- Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Shaun will be as he gets in for free as a helper. I found the entry fee far too expensive last year so probably not Pete, sorry. We cant get till late Saturday night and £50 for one night (me & our lass) is too much, its the most expensive campsite I've ever been on, ever! Cheers Phil Edited By Phil Green on 12/08/2014 10:32:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Christy Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Hi Phil, I should be seeing Mick W this week, and he said he had a box full of old radios that he was going to chuck out! I told him to hang on to them, and I would collect them from him. If he's got them ready by the week-end, I'll collect them and take them along to the Nats. It sounds like I'm going to be pressed into judging on the heli flight-line, so I don't know if I'll be able to get away much, but if Shaun wants to call around there, I'll hand them over! Which line is Shaun helping on? -- Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GONZO Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Phil, Simple is good. In keeping with the 'KISS' principle this is sufficent (more than) for retro fits and is 'fit for purpose', not over spec'ed with LCD displays etc. As this gets more widely known about I think a lot of people will wish they had not thrown away their old sets. Thus, denying themselves the experience of indulging in a little nostalgia, a feeling that becomes more pleasurable the older one gets(don't I know). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDD15 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Gonzo, I think you got it in one with that post! Phil Nice one! Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 Heres my final (?) run through of the Kraft Series 71 after completing the refit, I'm calling this 'finished' but you know how these things go... Its intended for simple retro transmitter refits so no LCD or anything fancy, but it does have some useful (and some novel!) features: Frsky 1way or 2way switchable Self-calibrating sticks - no trimpots or voltage measuring to do Up to 6 propo/switched/momentary channels plus one servo-slowed switched channel (flaps etc) Servo reversing by holding stick over on power-up, saved to flash Rates, Expo (thanks to Paul Luby for the expo maths) Single-handed range-check mode with throttle held off Two mix ratios, 50:50 for V-Tails and 75:25 for flying wings Throttle lock-off switch holds throttle closed Auto throttle lock on powerup (on switch on, throttle has to be closed to enable throttle channel, thereafter it acts normally until throttle-lock switch is thrown) Inactivity warning after 10 minutes of inactivity stops you leaving it switched on and ruining the lipo! Full single-channel emulation mix, compound and sequential No bootloader delay for instant ppm. This video is a summary of the completed project so theres some repetition, but I've tried to keep it short as I've been told my videos are too long and boring! Cheers Phil Edited By Phil Green on 19/08/2014 01:59:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1lokoS Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hi Phil, I want do this with 90's Futaba Attack or Conquest - no old Kraft available there. An try your monochannel emulation in some .049 size plane. A doubt, on Sparkfun page are two models of Arduino Pro Mini 328, one 5v/16MHz and one 3,3v/8MHz, what I should get? Or both are suitable? Thank you Av8r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 I used the 5v/16Mhz one Iran but its up to you! You'll fiind that the boards are so versatile, you can pretty much accomplish anything R/C. I have not tried the pro-mini yet but it would be my choice for the next one. The genuine Nano is too expensive compared to the pro-mini, and I'm definitely sticking with genuine, original boards rather than cheap clones. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Thieleman Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 I have my Kraft Series Seventy-Two single stick up and running, most of it works nice. Just a few problems. My S/C emulation works on my aileron servo, also the range check function works on one aileron servo. And the mixers don't work like they should. A5 is connected to A0 for dual aileron servo's A0=AIleron, A1=Elevator, A2=Rudder, A3=Throttle, A4=Ch6, A5=Aux2 to A0, A6=Expo, A7=Rates D9-Throttle cut, D8= 75/25 mix, D7=50/50mix, D10=S/C sec. D11=S/c comp. Any thought would be welcome, I checked the wiring many times. Regards Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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