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SC 52 2-Stroke keeps cutting out.


Ben Kelly
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Personally I much prefer a three line set up rather than two....if you use two lines you need to keep taking the fuel line off the carb & this is a) fiddly b) bound to weaken the tube leading to holes. Use a dedicated fill line & be happy. One to the exhaust for a bit of pressure & one to the carb to feed fuel..... Then you can seal the feed line with a clip, M3 screw or one of those nice bungs from Micro Mold.

To get the carb somewhere near, open the main needle about 2 turns. put a length of fuel tube over the fuel feed nipple, close the carb so its about 2mm open & screw the idle needle in until it GENTLY bottoms. Put the other end of the fuel tube in yer mouth & blow down it.......slowly open the idle needle until you can hear the air hiss into the carb & your face turns a slightly lighter shade of puce!!! If you open the needle lots of turns then the jet is blocked & heres your problem.!!!

The engine should start at these settings. Tune the main needle for max revs.with the nose held up & then richen the mixture about 1/4 turn.....always trade a few revs for a bit of smoke...means yer engine will last longer. Throttle back to idle.....if it cuts dead its too weak..open the idle needle slightly & try again...if it splutters before dying its too rich...screw the needle in slightly & try again. If it idles OK let it stabilise (30 secs at idle) & then open the throttle.....if it cuts dead its too weak, if it splutters & smokes a lot before picking up its too rich....see above. Keep tweaking the idle needle until you have a nice stable idle & smooth pick up...it can take a while. Oh & don't try & alter the needle with the engine running.....you only have 5 fingers & it will probably take 5 attempts to get it set right so you will probably run out of fingers to hold the screwdriver....if you get my meaning!!!! 

Once its set & set correctly LEAVE IT ALONE....you simply don't need to go winding the mixture controls in & out everytime you go near the model...unless it changes from blazing hot to freezing or you change the fuel or something. If its been running fine & suddenly it starts playing up then chances are its a leak or a blockage or the plug.....after all when was the last time you changed the mixture settings on your car/bike/lawnmower...it just ain't necessary in my opinion.....

Enjoy your trip to the US.......try & visit a modelshop out there....its a lot cheaper than here!!!!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Well I am very pleased to say that it is running well, I replace the clunk line and that seemed to stop the problems (touch wood) this engine has bags of power when its working, gives me unlimited vertical on an irvine wildcard . What would be the best run in procedure for one of these engines from new, as I am considering getting another one ( that power really is addictive) Thanks MIchael
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Yep, as Timbo sez......an ABC engines doesn't need much running in...indeed using the old method of very rich "four stroking" running can cause damage as the piston/liner fit is extremely tight at the top of the stroke....it needs the heat of combustion to expand the liner a bit to get the fit exactly right. Rich running doesn't get the engine up to temp & the piston/liner fit stays too tight.

Personally I would run a tank or two through it on the ground first at a slightly rich setting...(perhaps with a slightly smaller prop to get the revs/heat up on the richer mixture but probably not knowing me..) Once you can get a reasonably reliable idle out of it......go fly but keep the mixture slightly rich. After a couple more tanks try & tune the motor so it peaks out & holds peak revs. If it starts to slow after a few seconds, its not quite run in so another tank on the slightly rich setting & try again. It should only take a maximum of 6 tanks to be fully run in. Then peak the motor.....richen the mixture a few clicks & enjoy!!! (always trade a few revs for a bit of exhaust smoke...means the mixture is slightly rich & your engine will love you for it!!!)

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