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Miss Demeanor


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Miss demeanor is fast and gets small very quickly. It is also very responsive.

I can't remember the set up for the servos now. I have removed everything for another model and passed MD on to a club mate.

The next plan (Next Month) is the Fuegray TR-260 for .32 engines. Very Aerobat. a French Aerobatic model.

The one I am working on at the moment is a scale air racer again, this time with three SC .15s. Now that should sound sensational!

RCMW ran my Okie Swinger a couple of months ago as full size plan. Same size and Spec as MD but with tapered wings. I think it is a bit nicer to fly. You might like that one after MD.

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I've got the Okie plan too but it doesn't appear to have been printed off as well as the Miss D plan as the lines seem to be too thick. If I can get hold of a clearer plan I might have a go at as I've never built "Wash-out" into a wing before (not deliberately anyway). Might be a good home for that TT .18 I bought for the Miss D?

A friend of mine owns a Sign Writing company that has a computerised Router and has said he can cut up to 1/4" ply quite easily. That would save a lot of time when it comes to cutting out ribs and formers. The problem will be converting the 1:1 drawing into a PDF Format file for his software to read.

I've bought some longer control horns in an attempt to keep the throws down but retain the resolution on the servo travel.

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I can get a set of my orginal plans printed off if you want. Would cost about a fiver for a print including postage.

She will be fast on the 18 but she is a bit smother to fly and doesn't seem to get so small so quickly. 

Not sure how much difference the washout makes but she doesn't tip stall at low speeds.

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I would say that for most of the time you would not notice any difference but at any time the model was getting near the stall it would tip stall.

This can happen at speed too if you pull a really tight turn, the tip stall can make it flick into a turn the opposite way.

It really isn't very much of a problem to do so is worth while. Just remember to do it on both wings.

I can't tell you what difference it might make if you left it out. I do know that model is very nice to fly as designed.

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Just done a quick balance check with the radio gear in but not the undercart. With the battery in the tank bay it takes 2 x £1 and a penny to balance it out. Anyone know how much these coins weigh as I don't have scales sensitive enough?

Peter,

Just oggled the plans for your latest creation in the mag, think I will need to have a go at that one too!!!

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Hi Alex, thanks for the reply. I was thinking of going to the local Post Office, putting the coins on their scales then run away quick before someone asks what I'm doing!

Just about at the covering stage. The only outstanding part of the build is the undercart, I don't have a vise sturdy enough to bend the wires so I'm going to wander round the boat yards where I live and see if I can get one of their guys to do it for me.

Have youn seen the new Peter Miller model in this months mag? Nice!!!

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a pound coin weighs 8 grams. a two pound coin 12 grams. I have very sensitive scale for weighing post and balsawood. They are not really expensive. I got mine from ALDI for very little. I forget the exact price.

I balance my models by putting lead on top of the taipplane until they balance in the right place. then I insert it under tha tailpane. You can buy stick on lead weights if you prefer.

You are going to have some fun attaching the undercarriage now that the model has been built. I attach it to the former before even gluing the former to the side. I have a wire bender screwed to my work bench. That copes with up to 8 SWG wire.

Glad you all like the look of my Feugray TR-260.  

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Sorry. I got mixed up. no problem fitting the U/C. I was thinking on another type of mounting. The trouble is that two or three months after I have sent a plan off I can't remember much about it. Only the next one or two.

No, you don't drill the 1/4 ply until now.

  Don't forget. The covering will move the CG back a bit as well. so don't add the weight until the model is complete.

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Aye, it was just a quick check as I've placed the flight battery is in the tank bay and the U/C isn't made yet.

Ah well, as they say, the memory is the second thing to go!

Had to borrow the long-haired ones reading glasses to make up a couple of servo extensions for the wing servos. Far too fiddly!!

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Doug,

 funny you should say that about the post office thats exactly how i found out what they weigh.

Your problem with the UC wire i used to have a home made pipe bender although it was a pipe bender it would bend anything round down to 1mm dia, very simple to make costs about 3-4 pound in parts and will last your life time have the plan somewhere on a PDF could dig it out if you were interested?

Hope you get it covered soon looking forward to seeing it complete, and no i haven't seen this months mag yet you must subscribe and get it earl as its not in my local till 29th unfortunaley will be interested to see it though as i want to tackle a acrobatic model at soon time soon at the mo its a CAP also by Peter but a second wouldn't hurt! or a third or forth lol.

Regards Alex.

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I hold the canopy or windscreen down with very small screws and a canopy glue called MD Producs called Procan.

The screws are optional. I bought my from Mick Reeves. Phone on  01 354 653063

His website is:

http://www.mickreevesmodels.co.uk/

IT lists the screws.

I fit after covering but you could glue it down before covering. If you make a small rebate you could hide the joint.

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