Jump to content

Dumfries A4


Recommended Posts

Yes that's quite extensive nose damage! I thing a new F3b (or F2b) is a good idea and at least you don't need to do the engine intakes again.

Looking at the debris I'm glad to see there doesn't seem to be a weak spot or failure point to be aware of, just the result of piling in nose first.

Good luck with the re build. yes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Chris Barlow on 13/09/2016 08:24:25:

Steve, sorry to hear about the JP. What happened to it?

Chris, I couldn't get it away from the hill after launch, and after fighting to control it for a few seconds it got blown into a pile of rocks. Fuselage mainly OK, but both wings badly damaged. I'll post on my own JP blog in due course, rather than hijacking Malcolm's.

Malcolm, good luck with the rebuild. Could be quite tricky over the waisted-in cockpit area that had the ammonia treatment, unless your splices are tight!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Rebuild is now well in progress, interrupted by such minor mundane domestic tasks as building a reinforced concrete base for a domestic oil heating tank in the garden.

I've made some progress (with the A4 that is), as in the following photos.
I cut back the damage forward of F3, and produced a new set of parts for the nose.

rebuild 001_p0184.jpg

I made the battery box first(!), then a clone of F3 is positioned against the original F3, but 1/4" further forward.

rebuild 002_p0185.jpg

rebuild 003_p0187 .jpg

Ensure everything is square and aligned, and fixed to the 1/4" base. Add 1/2" x 1/2" triangular, and 1/2" x 1/4" steamed upper doublers, then attach the sides. They wrapped around without a problem, no Ammonia required.

rebuild 004_p0222.jpg

Time for some sanding (Outside..). - Sand off the excess base, any bits protruding past F1, and level off the upper nose, then attach 1/2" upper decking and fill in the nose blocks.

rebuild 010_p0291.jpg

Apply more elbow grease, and

rebuild 011_p0295.jpg

The upper deck behind the cockpit survived, so I just need to slot this in...

rebuild 012_p0296.jpg

So the next stage is to attach, sand a bit more, fill in any holes, prime and glass the restored front end. Reinstall cockpit decor and pilot, not to forget the ejector seat handle this time.

I will need a couple of 1/32" shims between the F3's to avoid producing a banana. ( or I could change the colour scheme...Hmm - Fyffes A4? Maybe not.)

New canopy is even now on its way from Traplet. (If I'm going to make a habit of this, I might invest time to create a lemonade bottle canopy mould, as at £6.99+pp a time, it might get costly.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job Malcolm. I am sure I remember seeing this damage on the Orme and feeling sad about it. So much easier to repair a balsa model than fibreglass

In terms of resin, I always use Eze Kote from Deluxe Materials which is water based and much easier to apply. You do need more coast though, but it is better than epoxy as there is no chance of putting it on too thickly as it is a much thinner consistency. This is what I used on my A4 - **LINK**

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...