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One Eighteenth of a Canberra B.2


Andy Blackburn
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I must admit I'm coming back round to it - I haven't seen a Canberra done in medium sea grey and black, and it should provide excellent visibility on the slope; IIRC, it was Dean Smith that had a Finnish Air Force Hawk which had camouflage so effective that it blended into the landscape when it was below the horizon.

The alternative was the "high-speed silver" finish used from 1953-56 but I've just done an inventory and quite a few of my models have turned out to be silver...

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 25/07/2016 11:57:45

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Fantastic work. Puts me to shame. I've been luck enough to see it in the flesh, and that planking has no filler folks ! My planking looks like a Christmas cake in comparison.

For colour schemes, I've become a big fan of 'some' contrast, I'm a big camo fan, but different lower & upper surfaces will provide plenty of contrast.
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Posted by Andy Blackburn on 23/07/2016 18:22:10:

....Covering will be Japanese tissue / sanding sealer / non-shrinking dope and then either car spray cans from Halfords or enamel paints from Hannants.

A superb build as always Andy. But what's this - no solarfilming masterclass from the Jedi master of covering?!

wink 2

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> But what's this - no solarfilming masterclass...

Well...

I like to carry two models to the slope (in case I crash one, obvs) and no matter how much care is taken, I always seem to unintentionally emboss either my jacket zip or a ruksack buckle or something into the fuselage during the journey from the car park to the slope, and in my experience film (even Profilm/Oracover) always lifts or bubbles, so you're always having to go over the edges with an iron before a flying session.

I don't really want to monkey around with glass & epoxy with all the primer and wet-sanding that entails, and I've been doing a bit of indoor scale recently so the idea of tissue kind of suggested itself. The surface should be tougher than film and I suspect that actual time spent covering (as opposed to waiting for dope to dry) might not be much different, although the painting will probably push the elapsed time into deficit (as it were).

I *might* still change my mind, though...

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Really quick update, mainly so that Steve at Vortex can see what's happening with the canopy plug.

The canopy base was made from two layers of medium-weight glass cloth and epoxy, fuselage wrapped in clingfilm. I Mixed way too much epoxy and put a bit too much on...

img_1504.jpg

1/16" sheet canopy profiles added:

img_1509.jpg

...the initial fuselage/canopy line didn't look quite right (too bulbous at the front), so I changed it slightly. I think it now looks slightly better:

img_1506.jpg

In other news, managed to cut out the hatch without razor-sawing through anything important:

img_1511.jpg

...and I thought we should have another shot of the tail area, just because (even on the iPhone camera) it looks nice:

img_1513.jpg

 

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 28/07/2016 09:10:11

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Andy, great looking build - am jealous of the quality of construction and the way you manage to keep the balsa ding free.

Also curious - looking at scale drawings and pictures it looks as if the real thing has a positive angle of attack of 3 degrees or so on the wing compared with the fuselage attitude. i.e. the fus looks nose down compared with the wing. Is this the case, and did you reproduce this, or go for a more conservative angle?

Mike

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Posted by Mike Chantler on 28/07/2016 17:42:40:

Also curious - looking at scale drawings and pictures it looks as if the real thing has a positive angle of attack of 3 degrees or so on the wing compared with the fuselage attitude. i.e. the fus looks nose down compared with the wing. Is this the case, and did you reproduce this, or go for a more conservative angle?

Ah!

Yes, it was a problem.

As you know, the Canberra was designed as a high-speed, high-altitude bomber with a symetrical section wing, I imagine that the wing is set at that angle to ensure minimum drag at cruise altitude (about 48,000 ft, I think, for the early marks) so it therefore tends to fly a bit nose-down at lower altitudes where the air is thicker.

I did entertain the notion of having the wing at +2.5 or +3 degrees and the tailplane at +1.5 or +2 degrees (don't really want more decelage than that because it tends to wreck the inverted performance) but that would look a bit odd when doing aerobatics, and if it's flying across the slope at speed in lots of lift it will probably be well nose-down anyway, just so that it can maintain a constant altitude, so having a wing at +3 degrees incidence would make it even more nose-down, which would look wrong.

So I've cheated. The tailplane is set at 0 degrees which is where people who aren't carrying around a scale drawing will expect it to be, the wing is set at +1.0 degrees incidence, the engine nacelles are at very nearly the correct angle and the only thing that looks odd, and only if you look carefully, is the angle of the wing WRT the nacelles.

If anyone had asked me about this on the slope, I would have bluffed...

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 28/07/2016 22:03:26

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Canopy plug construction continues:

img_1515.jpg

Had to go to the local model shop to get some reasonably dense 1/2" sheet - all the stuff I had in stock was extremely lightweight (between 4 and 6 lb cu ft). The balsa-balsa joints are all balsa cement, because that doesn't really produce a glue line between the blocks.

 

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 29/07/2016 08:29:34

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The plug looks a bit rough at the moment, but we'll see what happens when it's shaped:

img_1516.jpg

The medium cyano used to stick the balsa in-fill to the epoxy-glass base has partially dissolved the marker pen ink used to draw the canopy outline; pencil would have been better, but it's useable as it is:

img_1520.jpg

I've now got to leave it in a warm place for at least 24 hours to make sure the balsa cement has fully hardened - I left it in the airing cupboard this morning and within about 20 minutes SWMBO had discovered it. I think I've managed to placate her...

I'm in two minds about the canopy framing, but am leaning towards leaving it off; it might be nice to have but it's a stand-off scale model and at more than a couple of metres I don't think people will notice if it's just painted on or represented with strips of film.

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 30/07/2016 09:44:56

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Posted by Mike Chantler on 30/07/2016 09:51:55:

I kind of like the look of canopy plug, as is nerd

Quite menacing robot adaptation sort of thing going on.

I looked at it and knew that it reminded me of something, but couldn't think what - but now you've said it...

Wasn't there some Marvel superheroes giant character with a lantern-shaped head that emitted some sort of disruptor ray? Or am I thinking of something from an Ian M Banks novel?

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I think I've got it...

After days of tentatively sanding the canopy plug, consulting photographs, looking at drawings and shaking the head sadly, sanding the plug a bit more and then checking photographs again, I think it's about right. Or at least, about as right as it's going to get. The difficult bit was the rounded V-shape at the bottom of the canopy as in this great photo by Steve Brimley:

1108475.jpg

...and this is how the plug currently sits on the fuselage:

img_1524.jpg

Which looks (to me, anyway) to be reasonable. It's a little bit under-size to allow for the thickness of the clear plastic canopy material, but even so the difference between where we started (the pencil line on the fuselage) and the current shape is quite marked.

What have I learned from this (again)? Never, never trust a scale drawing, especially where it shows an intersection between two 3D solids that might be difficult to draw...

On to the plug for the nose transparency, which I've also been putting off. I wonder if there's some displacement activity that I can indulge in...?

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 04/08/2016 14:30:11

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Posted by Andy Blackburn on 01/08/2016
Wasn't there some Marvel superheroes giant character with a lantern-shaped head that emitted some sort of disruptor ray? Or am I thinking of something from an Ian M Banks novel?

Or possibly someone figuring prominently over here in the US Presidential, ummm, "election" ?

_____________________________________

But on a less crazed note I do appreciate your technique of carefully blending what's in published drawings with what you see and sense via the powers of the Mk. XVIII eyeball!   I've been planning to use that same "top plus side profiles" technique for shaping the nose on my Douglas Skyhawk PSSer build, where I'm shortening the A-4E/F nose to the early A4D / A-4A/B config:

A4D_CL_2.jpeg

I haven't as yet been able to locate an "accurate" cross-section drawings for this early nose, so the Mk. XVIII Eyeball enters the fray!

a4d_nose_development.jpg

I plan to drug/buy off the scale judges with their micrometers and raised eyebrows...

A4D_CL_3.jpeg

Edited By John_Rood on 04/08/2016 17:47:42

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