ken anderson. Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Michael .... a simple fixed skid on the rear of the acrowot will do-it has a pretty powerful rudder to steer it on the ground....yes join the wing halves without any spar...... the wing bandage fitted to the dimensions shown does the work for the model... ken Anderson...ne...1 Wot dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Michael do you need any photos of wire loop systems ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Ill Look into that Ken thanks, i see carbon copies make these, do they work well on grass as our clubs strip is grass? And if you have some Plane flyer i would be very grateful, am i right in thinking i can just use pliers to secure the clips supplied for the wire? or do i need a crimping tool? And i have noticed on the photos people have used metal clevis's is this better than using the supplied plastic clevis's? Unfortunately not much further with the plane as the moment as my daughter has chicken pox meaning i haven't been able to build on the night as i have been doing, however she's getting better now and i have put a tank of fuel through my OS AX55 so i can mount it in the plane and see where servos and suck need to sit for good COG, then its painting hopefully! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 mike...pliers are fine if you don't be too brutal,good quality plastic clevis are ok also ... and a good old wire skid on the tail is ok for the grass strips..in the old days Wots were thrown together in all forms and flew with very little TLC.... ken Anderson...ne...1....belt and braces/TLC Dept. Edited By ken anderson. on 20/07/2017 11:03:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Photos as requested Acro Wot ( Yellow ) is a solid wire set up, (red & white ) is flexible wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Thanks Ken ill probably pick one up from carbon copies if i don't like the tailwheel first as I'm not convinced of the design 100% so far but ill see when its built! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Laughton Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 The carbon copy skid works fine on grass and is a good bit of kit. Personally I would always swap the clevises for metal ones but also making sure that they engage properly on the thread but it is a matter of personal choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Thanks very much rc plane flyer ill attempt to do mine soon hopefully so the pictures will be a very handy guideline for me to follow! Cheers Jon i would like the versatility a steerable tailwheel first however if now ill just get a skid! & for the sake of the price i might just get metal ones considering the price of everything else just to be sure! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 One little tip is not to sheet the bottom of the rear fuselage until you have installed the closed loop and aileron control rod. It isn't essential but makes it a bit easier. I left the "lid"off the engine compartment until later for the same reason. I also glass covered my Acrowot like you and it's very very strong. It used to have an OS80 four stroke in it but I now use a OS55 with tuned pipe and it is very fast. I built mine as per Chris Foss instructions using two separate aileron servos and his steerable tail wheel design. It's a great fun plane and so much stronger than an ARTF. Sorry one extra tip to add is about cutting closed loop or braided wires. Some braided wires unravel when cut. A tip is to apply a small bit of solder ( about 1cm)on the bit you intend to cut, then cut it with pliers in the middle. You will then have a solid end which is easy to thread through small holes. I also always tend to use boden cable(sleeved wire) for throttle linkages as it is far mor flexible and can run around tanks etc. Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 21/07/2017 09:48:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 "One little tip is not to sheet the bottom of the rear fuselage until you have installed the closed loop and aileron control rod. It isn't essential but makes it a bit easier." more than "a bit" easier I would say! did you mean elevator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Yep sorry elevator!😊😊😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIM Shaw Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 A drop of cyano wicked in before you try and cut the cable works too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Philbrick Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Hi Michael. The purpose of the back plate is to ensure that when the bolt heads break they leave the depth of the back plate for you to get the pliers on. So I tend to use 6mm ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Unfortunately I've already made the fuselage so unfortunately ill just have to manage now! How do you find the os55 mounting, did you have to angle it a bit? i think i might buy the exhaust extension so i can mount it straight! & yes i think it looks as strong as it will need to be now i have covered it all. And ill have to look into the bowden wire, never seen that before. Im just need to complete the wing now so i can paint, I'm just stuck on the aileron torque rods, i don't get what they are for, can't i just put another hinge there and leave them out or am i missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Z Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Hi Mine was an ARTF version with an OS55AX and I kept it "square" and used an exhaust extension from Just Engines. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIM Shaw Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Hi Michael In the old days the normal installation was a single, central servo driving the ailerons via torque rods. This is the basis the kit is sold on. More recently, a separate servo driving each aileron directly has become the norm. If you have fitted two aileron servos, one for each surface, then the torque rods supplied in the kit are superfluous, and you should just post them to me and forget you ever heard the term. If, however , you are planning on using one, central servo for the ailerons we need to talk further... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Yes i think I'm going to try the extension set for the exhaust as it will just make getting the 2 degree thrust angle easier. Yes in my kit i have 1 servo in each wing for the ailerons so i can just ignore the torque rods then? This would make it so much easier i think just having an extra set of hinges rather than the torque rod! Thanks Again for your help with this build Tim! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIM Shaw Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Yep. Exactly. If you have direct servo drive to each aileron you can ignore the torque rods, and, as you say, fit an additional hinge. Which. like all the others, you are going to pin, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 I havnt made any up yet but ive got pined hinges that i plan on epoxying in place. Im very glad i dont have to do the tourque rods now as thats been putting me off the wing but now it should be comolete soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Price 1 Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I think you may have misunderstood the reference to pin the hinges. This entails drilling right through all (both sides) of the wing/tailplane/rudder hinges and gluing a wooden cocktail stick so there is no chance of them pulling out under high loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 ohhh yes that makes sense thanks Roger! No i didn't think of that but i think its so simple and will make the hinges secure that ill be doing it! Im just finishing off the wings then all will be ready to paint soon!! can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Hi guys, I thought I would post an update as I've started building again, I've finished all painting and connecting all servos and connecting all control surfaces. I have installed a fuel tank and not I just need to install a receiver (Frsky 6 channel) and add a battery and connect the tail wheel to the rudder. For the battery to power the servos do I need to get just a Nicad receiver battery? Im not sure what to do as I've only ever flown electric and I just plugged the lipo into the ESC. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Mike, the Wot looks ace, well done. RX battery - yes, a 4 AA cell NiMh would do perfectly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Thats nice, I cannot make my mind up between the Wot4 and the Acrowot. This is not helping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Little Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Thank you both! The paint job is alot rougher in real life but i an happy how it turned out! This may be a daft question but i have a frsky x8r and i cant see the power in, im assuming i just plug it in one of the eight channels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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