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Peggy Sue 2


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Yep, sure was, but PS2 handled it so well. I can confidently say that it is a ‘plane for all weathers but some of that maybe down to me using a 4S 3700 pack. What really got me was the lack of a stall, as I said above I did try it both up and downwind and I should also add that the C of G was spot on (tested in all the usual ways, inverted 45 degree half throttle climb, vertical dives, inverted flight, knife edges). A club member asked me what it glided like so I took it up quite high and quite a way out upwind. I then cut the throttle and flew it ‘glider style’ for the best part of 2 minutes before landing it on the strip and not once did I touch the throttle.

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That is great  news.

I am inspired to update my original 50" span Peggy Sue. Just been looking at the plan and there is a lot  that could be done there. Not least the copious use of 1/64" ply that would cost a fortune these days. Also standard size servos.

That was 21 years ago!!!

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Ron, that windscreen being removeable with the hatch looks a good idea for battery access, but I wonder if you did it again would you incorporate more of a frame at the top where it meets the former?  Or has it proved just right as shown?

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Ron said Peggy Sue 2 flew like a Wot4 which is praise indeed.  I looked at the wing section and it does seem rather thick and blunt in the manner of Wot4 etc etc but probably not as thick.    I always look at the wing section before considering to build a model - the thicker sections always seem to fly better and best of all they don't seem to speed up if you make a mistake and the model heads for the ground.  Gives that vital few extra seconds to recover the situation!

Comparing PS2 to the 50 inch Peggy Sue 1  it seems rather thicker in section.   Difficult to tell but it looks that way.    The original Peggy Sue plan is on Outerzone if you want to see.

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@kcif you’re thinking of building the Peggy Sue 2, don’t! By don’t I mean don’t think about it just build it, you will not regret it. If you want a model that is a genuine ‘go to’ model then as far as I’m concerned this is the one. The conditions I flew it in yesterday were not ideal (just look at the weather dock and smoke in my videos) but it was a pussy cat to fly.

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Studying the PeggySue 2 plan it seems you need to understand the various layers of the fuselage.   At the cabin area there is a 1/4 sq that only goes just past the wing and has ply behind it and ply outside to form the windows.  They all meet at this 1/4 sq part.   All on the plan but not obvious at a glance.   Peter's photos show this better than the plan.

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If you study it.The 1/4" sq goes back to a scarf joint with the rear longeron. Then there is the 1/4" sheet wing seat which sits on top of that and goes back beyond the trailing edge and then is cut down to match the scarf joint of the top 1/4" sq and the rear longeron.

The ply is mainly a wing frame but does add strength.

Between the sides and butting up against the F-4 is the 1/4" ply mount for the wing bolts.

Basically build the two sides out of the 1/4" sq and the 1/4" sheet wing seat and all should become clea.

 

I am thinking (only thinking) about an electric variation on the original Peggy Sue customised to look a bit more like a Rearwin Speedster

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Ron's photos toqether with Peter's show it clearly.

At a quick glance most of the balsa needed is a dozen 1/4 sq strips, 4 pcs 1/8 by 1/4 strips, 5 sheets of 1/16 by 3,   2 sheets of 3/32 by 3 and a sheet of 1/4 by 4 plus a few odd pieces of balsa and some ply.   Very economical

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Make that 6 pcs 1/8 by 1/4  - I didn't notice the two underneath.

Seems like 14" by12"  of 1/32 ply,  7" by 5" of 1/8 liteply and 12" by 5" of 1/4 birch ply would suffice.   Plus some 1/2" by 4" balsa for the cowl ( maybe half a sheet) and some small bits of 1/8 balsa would be enough wood for this model.   I would always add a few spare sheets to the order for mistakes!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It’s one of those bits of kit that I wonder how I managed without it before! And it’s not just used for model bits, all manner of things around the house have been printed and over the weekend my son-in-law asked me if I could design and print a couple of blanking plugs to fit his ‘bike as he had lost his!

 

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21 hours ago, Ron Gray said:

It can take over! The cowl took about 15 minutes to design and then left the printer to print the draft one overnight (4 hours). I then redid it as I wanted it thinner so another 10 minutes to redraw then another print.

 

A bit off-topic but what CAD s/w do you use, Ron?  I have a 3D printer winging (or floating) its way from Bangood as I write and, to be honest, I'm half-dreading being unable to make good use of it as I have very limited CAD experience.

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23 hours ago, Peter Miller said:

I wish you could print off a new bonnet for my car.Only plastic but the wind ripped it off.Lots of broken spare ones.

A new one from Italy £200 for a bit of moulded plastic.

That's not bad Peter, modellers are paying about £500 for a chunk of moulded foam.?

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