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Pioneer Model


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Spooky

Steve,

No joy with the Pioneer, but I have found the plans for the Bleriot XI from RCME Dec 1979 and Jan 1980. It's 46 span for .15 to .20 two strokes. PM me and I'll get them copied and posted to you. From memory I don't think there is much diference between the two models.

Cheers,

Chris.

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  • 1 year later...
Steve,

Just come across your thread and I can confirm it was a Cambria kit. I built one many years ago and still have it, although it is suffering bad hangar rash.

I plan a rebuild of it over the next few months and will be converting it to electric in the process. I will start a build blog of this.

A big compliment to Solarfilm here - I covered mine in antique Solartex and despite the model having been left stored in garages and lofts since its last flight about 25 years ago there is absolutely no signs of any sagging or lifting and although I need to do a proper check, at the moment it looks like I will be able to use the wing without any remedial work.

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  • 2 years later...
I have been gifted a Cambria Pioneer, assembled with a plan sheet. The model looks complete, bar the wheels and cosmetics. There are 3 RC control cables in situ. I have very little experience in model building, notably some rubber band powered balsa kits, many years ago. I would like to get the Pioneer airborne. There is an engine in the box, a Perry 40. I don't know if it's compatible . It's also seized. Would anyone advise disassembly to free it ? Any advice gratefully received.
 
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the cambrian pioneer was cambrias atempt to make a simple to fly bleriot type model for the average pilot, it should have a large plastic top deck at the front, the perry 40 motor will be a HB motor, its a slogger of an engine, the seize up will be the bearings, which may, or may not need changing, get some oven gloves, and some glow fuel, remove the glow plug, place the engine in a pan of boiling water, let is soak on a small simmer, dont use your best pan!!! fit a propellor, it should turn over, but stiffly, put some fuel down the carb, and in the exhaust port, when its cooled off which should be done by just letting it cool, NOT dunking it under the tap, and it can turn over freely, it may, or may not be ready for a run, its a tad big for the pioneer, but it does not have to run flat out, as ever with this game, go to a club, and get insured, and instructed,
 
oh yes, check the uprights, see if they are loose, when i owned one, i fitted triangular gussets over the join betoween the longeron spar, running front to back, and the uprights,
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Alan4
Many thanks for your advice.. Yes, I now see a stylized "HB" on one side of the engine. There is a prop, a TF 11-5 super-M. I'll try out the engine remedials this week. I failed to enthuse my wife regarding the prospect of the plane's resurrection, so i'll have to wait until she's out before I raid the saucepan drawer ! Uprights not loose. There is no plastic top deck, although I found some odd pieces of profiled plastic., I see on the plan "moulded centre fairing" .
 
 
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i forgot to say, once you had got it turning over, turn the motor inverted, revolve the crank, this will send the water to the plug hole, when its decently drained, put some light machine oil NOT Wd40 down the carb, and turn over a few times, dont forget to work the throttle on the carb to free that off as well
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Alan4
I'm impressed. The engine fix went exactly as you predicted. Turning over freely now. The only oil I had was two-stroke garden machinery type. A cursory internet look in my area did not show anyone selling glow fuel, but there's a club just half a mile away.
Thank you
 
 
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I THANKYOW just make sure when you turn it over, that it does not feel notchy, if it does, this will be a solidified bit of castor oil on the ball race balls, if run like this, it will stop in the race, and you will get a flat spot on the ball,
With the plug left in, and the piston turned to top dead centre, put enough fuel into the carb to fill the bottom end of the case, the bit where the ball races live, leave for 24 hours, then flush out with your oil, it should be flicking over nicely, word of warning, wear goggles, and plastic gloves, the 2 stroke oil you have is more than ideal, when you get some fuel, try to get 5-10% synthetic, castor fuel is a thing of the past,
 
did everyone notice how i never made a single joke about oily balls? i am getting soft in me old age
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  • 2 years later...

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