RCM&E Dec 2018 - Ruckus Review Update

[Mitchell Howard]

20 hours ago, Kim Taylor said:

Hi Mitchell

 

I haven't got a Ruckus, but I believe that the Riot has identical bits & bobs, so to answer your questions:

1. The 'threads' on the control rods aren't a conventional thread at all (unless changed recently) they're more like a self tapping or Archimedes screw.

I can only suggest either taking the whole shooting match to your lms (if you have one) and match something up. Or someone may have already done this and be able to tell you what fits, or as a last resort, buy some from Century UK, who sell them as a spare part.

2. See 3. Assuming that you've already balanced the prop??

3. Yes, the spinner is horrid. Replace with something better and hopefully your rasping noise will magically disappear.

4. I'd be surprised if you can't do what you're asking with the AT10, but I can't offer any advise on set up - I did the same on my Riot using my Spektrum DX8g2 and it was a fiddle, but I got there in the end. Never use it, though!!

hth (a bit)

Kim

eta On my Riot, I'm using a c of g well behind the 'book' setting, which (with care) will allow you to slow the model down a bit more compared to a more nose heavy one. I don't know where you are with your c of g but I'd definitely be working at the back of the recommended range and beyond (only if you're comfortable, obvs, don't want to get the blame for you breaking it!!)

 

Hi Kim - we lost our LMS this Christmas, was a shame as I was just getting into the hobby. I've ordered an APC 11*5.5 and a JP spinner with ally backplate. It's the spinner with metal adapter bushes so hopefully straight on and job's a good'un. You're not wrong about the spinner - I thought the cheap one that came with my Seagull Boomerang was iffy, this is worse. The Radiolink set is a good start, but there's no userbase for support and the written manual whilst looking thorough on the surface never quite explains how you're supposed to do what you need to.

[Mitchell Howard]

19 hours ago, Jeffrey Cottrell 2 said:

Congrats on the maiden. Good to hear it went well.
So, questions:
Sad to say the story with the clevises is too common. I generally throw them away before I even start.
Can't confirm how the rods are threaded, Kim may well be right on that one.
For some time now I have been using clevises from Modelfixings, here. Found them to be of excellent quality and still close with a snap, even after being opened a few times.
These are designed to self thread on to a 2mm thread, so I'm not too sure how secure they would be on your current rods.
I guess you want to keep the model in one piece, so can I suggest what I do now as a matter of course.
Along with the clevises, Modelfixings also sell studding (threaded rod) in 2mm here. I always keep some of this handy and make up my own bespoke rods.
Just need cutting to length and a clevis on each end.

 

 

If you wanted to go 'belt and braces' 2mm is also the thread for metal clevises like these. My Ruckus has plastic ones and they'll do fine.
Props
Probably a good guess that the bendy props are causing the rasping noise. Maybe a stiffer one might help. APC would be first choice, but Hobbyking do a range of APC lookalikes, called 'Bone' props and they are surprisingly good, here. Dirt cheap too.
Not sure what size you are using, but I have 10 x 5 on mine. Performs very well indeed.

 

 

I have a 40mm all alloy spinner on mine. Can't remember where I got it from, but it does have a collet adaptor built in to the backplate. That ain't going to run out of true. If you're interested, I could probably find who sells them.
Radio
Sorry, can't help with the flap set up, but probably asking the question in the Radio section on this forum, might get you some help.
Good luck
Jeff
P.S. 40mm might seem a bit small for the spinner, but it doesn't look out of place and leaves an open ring for cooling air to get in to the motor.
J

 

Thanks Jeff - I see your photo is of the aileron linkage - my splitting clevis was on the elevator - the studding would need to be over 500mm and it looks like this supplier only does 300mm lengths. Do you know of alternatives? I've not looked yet myself but a recommendation is always good.

 

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Mitchell

Sorry I got the wrong control, but I don't think you mentioned it was the elevator.

No biggy, here's how I did mine:

 

 

I actually soldered a metal clevis to the tail end of the pushrod. Not coming loose anytime soon, but can't be adjusted from that end.

To take care of that, I used barrel connectors like these, at the servo end.

 

 

Have to say, when confronted by an issue like this, my first look is in my scrap box, see what I can invent. So, I can't say for sure the pushrod I used was the original one.

IIRC, the Ruckus uses z bends at the servo end. Worth pulling the rod out and having a measure of its length as if the z bend was flattened out. See if it's long enough.

If need be you could use the rod the opposite way round, with the threaded end at the servo. The barrel connectors will grip on that just as well.

 

Loads of ways of dealing with this. feel free to try mine, or not, as you wish.

 

Cheers

 

jeff

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Mitchell, just a thought.

I know the clevis that failed was on the elevator, but how much can you trust the others?

Suggest that if you're going to the trouble of making a more secure elevator control, you should consider doing the others as well.

Just an idea

Jeff

[andyh]

On 23/08/2021 at 17:06, Mitchell Howard said:

Maidened yesterday! Within about 30s of being up with it in 10mph wind, I had a big smile on my face. First low winger for me, having only flown trainer and a larger STOL model - this feels connected and direct in a way the others don't. The CG was spot on as per the manual with the weights removed (filled with balsa) and the 3700 4S putting some weight back in.

 

sounds like your CofG could do with coming back a bit - I'm flying mine with a 2.2Ah 4S (with the nose weights removed), with the battery 2" back from fully forward & it could probably do with coming back a bit further!

[andyh]

On 24/08/2021 at 15:34, Jeffrey Cottrell 2 said:

 

 

your Rx placement looks interesting - if I'm looking at that correctly, have you chopped some foam out behind the Elevator/Rudder servos so you can mount the Rx behind them?

[andyh]

what do people think of the rudder response on this model?  I get horrible pitch-down when using it & the model rolls the *opposite* direction to the direction of yaw.

 

it's most odd & I'm trying to imagine what aerodynamic effect must be causing it - I can't imagine the bubble canopy helps much.  ?

[Stuart Z]

On 16/08/2019 at 13:55, Shaun Walsh said:

Fit a 3541-1070 motor from 4-max. I put one in my Riot it draws 37amps on a 12x6 and it will climb vertically on a 3s. Fits on original motor mount and is the correct dimensions for the cowl.

Hi

 

New to electrics, should I be changing the ESC up to next size up, say 50amp, if I’m going to be upgrading similar to the above?

 

Hope you can help
 

S

Edited May 23, 2022 by Stuart Z

[Shaun Walsh]

Hi Stuart

I replaced the ESC on my Riot with a 50 amp one when I upgraded the motor. Always like to have a bit of headroom in the amps department.

Shaun

[Stuart Z]

Thanks Shaun

 

Makes sense

 

S

[Bill Burrows]

I have a recently purchased Ruckus and find that the steel weights appear  to be glued in with a polyurethane type adhesive. Any suggestions on how to get them out with minimal damge to the surrounding foam? They seriously compromise the size of battery and hence flight times.

[Mitchell Howard]

3 minutes ago, Bill Burrows said:

I have a recently purchased Ruckus and find that the steel weights appear  to be glued in with a polyurethane type adhesive. Any suggestions on how to get them out with minimal damge to the surrounding foam? They seriously compromise the size of battery and hence flight times.

 

Hi Bill - the forumites helped me above in this thread somewhere but the best thing to do is get a long thin knife, the snap-off blade hobby type and slice out the weights. I put a block of balsa back in to stiffen the area up again without adding the weight.

[andyh]

On 23/05/2022 at 05:36, Stuart Z said:

New to electrics, should I be changing the ESC up to next size up, say 50amp, if I’m going to be upgrading similar to the above?

 

that replacement motor has 25% higher Kv (1070 vs 850) than the original so it's going to draw more current all else being equal (ie if you're using the same prop).  the alternative would be to prop it down a bit - eg 11x6 on 3S (but check it with a power meter).

 

if you're looking for more performance, I would highly recommend 4S - I'm running mine on the original motor & ESC (40A) with the supplied* 11x5.5 prop & it will climb vertically out of sight.

 

* the model was supplied with a 12x6 when it first came out which is fine for 3S, but I imagine Century had a lot of blown motors/ESCs when people tried it on 4S.

[Shaun Walsh]

14 hours ago, andyh said:

 

that replacement motor has 25% higher Kv (1070 vs 850) than the original so it's going to draw more current all else being equal (ie if you're using the same prop).  the alternative would be to prop it down a bit - eg 11x6 on 3S (but check it with a power meter).

 

if you're looking for more performance, I would highly recommend 4S - I'm running mine on the original motor & ESC (40A) with the supplied* 11x5.5 prop & it will climb vertically out of sight.

 

* the model was supplied with a 12x6 when it first came out which is fine for 3S, but I imagine Century had a lot of blown motors/ESCs when people tried it on 4S.

It does indeed have a lower Kv motor as standard. My Riot with the same 850Kv motor pulled 27 Amps with a 12x6 prop on a 3s battery. The 4-Max 1070Kv motor with a 12x6 prop and 3s battery draws 37 Amps, hence the need to up-rate the ESC. On the Riot, going to a 4S battery wasn't an option as the battery bay is only just big enough for a 3s 3000mAh battery even with the bottom of the bay cut away to make it deeper. If the Ruckus has more room for a bigger battery then 4s may be an option but you may need to drop to an 11x6 prop depending upon the current drawn.

[andyh]

On 26/05/2022 at 10:53, Shaun Walsh said:

It does indeed have a lower Kv motor as standard. My Riot with the same 850Kv motor pulled 27 Amps with a 12x6 prop on a 3s battery. The 4-Max 1070Kv motor with a 12x6 prop and 3s battery draws 37 Amps, hence the need to up-rate the ESC. On the Riot, going to a 4S battery wasn't an option as the battery bay is only just big enough for a 3s 3000mAh battery even with the bottom of the bay cut away to make it deeper. If the Ruckus has more room for a bigger battery then 4s may be an option but you may need to drop to an 11x6 prop depending upon the current drawn.

 

HK do a flattish 4S 2650mAh which fits the Riot battery bay quite nicely & is a popular combination in my club along with the 11x55.5 prop that is now supplied with the model.

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

14 hours ago, andyh said:

 

HK do a flattish 4S 2650mAh which fits the Riot battery bay quite nicely & is a popular combination in my club along with the 11x55.5 prop that is now supplied with the model.

Hi andy

Indeed they do, and very good batteries they are too. Unfortunately, since HK EU warehouse is not supplying to UK at the moment, the only way to buy them is from Global, with their exorbitant shipping costs.

HK say they are to begin shipping from EU on 1st June, but I've heard this before so many times.

If it ever happens I would expect to see a unicorn on my lawn.

Jeff

[Mark Kneen]

Just wanted to say a big thanks to the OP Mike Freeman for the tips on battery holder and wing cutout for tidying up wires. In fact took the wing cutout one step further and installed a HobbyEagle A3 mini gyro with minimal further cutting away of material - it's tiny. Connected via iBus from the Rx, wiring is tidying up even further and makes taking the wing on and off easier - a bit tricky making sure all those wires are tucked away as you replace the wing, evident from the indentations!

 

Anyone else have the wing getting stuck by the paint?

 

Love the Ruckus. With a 3s, 12 inch prop and low rates recommended in the instructions this made a very easy transition from a high wing trainer to low wing tail dragger. Lovely slow landings, I've set up flaperons but haven't needed them even in calm weather. Looking forward to getting a few more hours in before moving up to a 4s.

 

 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by Mark Kneen

[Nigel Heather]

Hi,

 

I haven’t got a Ruckus yet, been flying an AcroWot Foam-E for some time but it’s on it’s last legs now, so have been looking at the Ruckus for some time.

 

My next project is a traditional balsa build fun-fly which I’ll start when it gets a bit warmer to be in the shed.  That will use 4S batteries which is new to me as I’ve been using the ubiquitous 3S 2200 up to now.

 

So I was figuring on getting a Ruckus and flying it on 4S, but I have some questions

 

• Does 4S improve the Ruckus
• Seen the posts about lack of room even for a 3S 2200 so is fitting a 4S even more of a problem
• What capacity 4S is recommended - the adverts say 4S 2200 but could you go a bit bigger
• Is the supplied motor and ESC really okay for 4S - appreciate that they wouldn’t sell it otherwise, but have seen posts of 37A draws on a 40A ESC and the ESC getting hot.

Cheers,

 

Nigel

 

 

[Stuart Z]

Just my view, the Ruckus will be more docile than the Acrowot Foam E

 

Possibly what you wanted?

 

S

[Nigel Heather]

1 hour ago, Stuart Z said:

Just my view, the Ruckus will be more docile than the Acrowot Foam E

 

Possibly what you wanted?

 

S

 

No, not what I'm after.  Would you say that is the case even with the Ruckus on 4S?

[Stuart Z]

Hi

 

I have mainly used 3S.  I found it very similar to the Riot but with a low wing.  It’s a fairy stable bird.  Possibly with the control movements upped it may be quite lively.  The wing shape is square so not tapered as some aerobatic models. Worth checking out the many articles on here to see what others say.  I know my Acrowot foamy is definitely quite lively by comparison.  Again my opinion but see other comments.
 

S

[GrumpyGnome]

Does it have a great lump of steel in the nose like the Riot? Removing that transformed my Riot.......

[Stuart Z]

Yes, I believe there is. If so you are effectively moving the C of G back which would make it more lively, not sure it will be as good as an Acrowot but others may think differently.  You still have the broad wing tips which will slow its rotation.  

 

S

Edited January 28, 2023 by Stuart Z

[Peter Jenkins]

5 hours ago, Stuart Z said:

Just my view, the Ruckus will be more docile than the Acrowot Foam E

 

Possibly what you wanted?

 

S

There is no need to put up with twitchy aircraft.  Try moving the CG forward a tad and reduce the control throws.  You do not need the maximum control throws you can get to fly smoothly.

 

The question about docility is interesting.  If you were to fly my 2 m aerobatic competition model you would undoubtedly say it was extremely docile yet It can fly the FAI P schedule without a problem - better than me!  Making use of rates helps with twitchy aircraft.  I took over from the owner of a small aerobatic model who was having problems flying it - wow!  Did I have problems flying it!  Got it down unscathed and turned down his control throws and it looked like he was flying on rails on his next flight.  I'm told he's been told this at his club and they turned down his control throws but...he turned them back up again and had difficulty in flying it.  There's a lesson there somewhere!

[Nigel Heather]

4 minutes ago, Peter Jenkins said:

There is no need to put up with twitchy aircraft.  Try moving the CG forward a tad and reduce the control throws.  You do not need the maximum control throws you can get to fly smoothly.

 

The question about docility is interesting.  If you were to fly my 2 m aerobatic competition model you would undoubtedly say it was extremely docile yet It can fly the FAI P schedule without a problem - better than me!  Making use of rates helps with twitchy aircraft.  I took over from the owner of a small aerobatic model who was having problems flying it - wow!  Did I have problems flying it!  Got it down unscathed and turned down his control throws and it looked like he was flying on rails on his next flight.  I'm told he's been told this at his club and they turned down his control throws but...he turned them back up again and had difficulty in flying it.  There's a lesson there somewhere!

 

Just to be clear, I don't think anyone said anything about twitchy aircraft.

 

Where this came from is that I have been flying an AcroWot Foam-E (uses 3S 2200) but it is getting a little battered.  So I am considering getting a Ruckus and flying it on 4S.

 

Someone suggested that the Ruckus may seem tame compared with my AcroWot - but he was talking about a Ruckus on 3S.

 

What is the Ruckus like on 4S?