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Phil's F-86 Sabre build thread


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Got the black cockpit and nose section painted up today.  Was dreading painting the black over the yellow but got away with no bleeds and a nice crisp edge.  Can't wait to take the tape off the cockpit glass to reveal the details inside but it all needs some gloss clearcoat before I can do that!

 

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The last of the vinyl decals added...

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... just wait a moment here please, Phil...

Isn't the black nose paint supposed to be truly matt 'anti-glare' scale wise?

If so in your scale book as well, you can remove the cockpit tape and have it 'all' covered before having some 'clear gloss' in your airbrush leaving the gloss for the rest of your fuse?

But then, I'm just an apprentice here.

 

Chris

 

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Good morning Chris, I had given this some thought too! ?

Truth be told, I'm really not sure if the black is more decorative than functional, gloss or matt?  I can only find a couple of grainy, B&W photographs of the real jets in this scheme on the net, and it's impossible to tell.

 

My logic was I couldn't see them paiting the canopy frame in the matt 'anti-glare' paint, I don't think its as hard wearing as the gloss paint (same with the models!) and in keeping with the overall gloss of a military display team jet I was going to put the gloss finish all over!  Of course there may be a little artistic license required here, as there is already in other areas of my chosen scheme if I'm being totally honest!
 

The events scale police with have to take the magnitude of this decision into consideration on the day! ?

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Many thanks for all the comments!

 

Frustratingly, with just a few bits of detail painting and some panel lining left to complete the airframe ready for the gloss coat and balance, an operation this weekend on my right shoulder sees me in a sling now for 4 weeks, meaning I can't continue with the airbrush.  Thankfully, I can still operate a PC and mouse and with the forced downtime I've drawn up some of the key F-86 nomenclature in PS which I can now print onto clear media to make some water transfers.

 

I've not made my own transfers like this before, hopefully they will turn out ok!?

 

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Edited by Phil Cooke
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Sorry to read that you're a bit 'delayed', Phil. Get well soon.

Regarding the water decals, please remember that your printer - if it's a household one - doesn't print in 'white'.

For example, you will have no white lettering in your "GROUND HERE" roundels. In my documentation for the Dog, the "BEWARE OF BLAST" sign at the turbine exit, includes a surrounding white rectangle as well. Maybe yours does not?

The solution, of course, is to print those on a transfer with white background or to stick your clear decals onto a piece of thin white adhesive vinyl.

 

Cheers & keep safe

Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

After a frustrating 3 weeks I'm finally able to move my arm upto the workbench for light work only - thankfully the panel lining and decal work still needed does fall into this category!
 

The wing is now complete with all panel lines, waterslide decals and lacquer.

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Positioning the trimmed waterslides.  I gave the area a quick lacquer coat before they were applied with MicroSol and MicroSet.  As Chris correctly pointed out having printed the decals on my home PC the 'GROUND HERE' decal needed a 10mm white circle painting first onto which the decal was applied.

 

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The red circle around the wing tank filler cap has gone a little black looking mounted onto the blue stripe, there is also a bit of silvering evident in the centre of this decal which I can attack with a little more MicroSol and a pin.  Generally I'm quite chuffed how they've come out, this is the first time I've printed waterslides myself at home!  Onto the fuselage...

 

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Edited by Phil Cooke
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Glad to see you back at the workbench Phil.  Superb work.  

How did you do your panel lines ?  In a previous photo it looked like you had a paper/card template. Was this just for reference and draw them by eye or do you place the template on the model to mark the location ?

 

Cheers

Nigel 

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Many thanks Nigel,

I do make thin card templates for repeatable shapes like wheel cover doors or access panels to ensure symmetry, I position the card and put a small point of ink at each corner or change of angle on the shape, then use a flexi rule to join the dots.  They are all just scaled and positioned by eye with a wealth of 3 view line drawings to hand for a guide.  A 0,5mm Sharpie does the job well on a painted surface.

 

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What a great job, Phil. Those transfers make a lot of difference. I put some on my build - not as clear as yours I am afraid, but from a few metres away they looked the part. Of course when the plane is in the air you dont see them but you know they are there... right?

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Hiya Rob - yeah it was your thread and build which pushed me to have a go at the home-brew waterslides, I've never made my own before but I'm really quite happy how they've turned out - the base colour showing through is the only concern (my red markings look black when applied on the blue stripes for example)

 

Most of the detail we apply of course cant be seen in the air, but you would be amazed what the camera picks up these days on a close pass in good sunlight, these details really bring those photos to life and complete the illusion of scale for me!  Well worth the effort!

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I have tried various different pens for panel lines. If you use felt tips you have to be careful that you don't buy one that is so thin that just smudges off on film. I use a Staedtler variant that dries instantly, which I find the best. This is not so important of course if you are marking painted glass over balsa finishes as Phil is here, but being a lazy savage, I try to choose a theme that requires film.

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Applying more panel lines and transfers to the fuselage - plodding along quite nicely and fast approaching the final lacquer coat.  I was particularly pleased with how the two landing lights turned out - mounted onto white circles just ahead of the nose gear doors. ?

 

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Edited by Phil Cooke
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