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Sabre build "Gotchas"


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Fuselage build:

  • Slide F14 through F6 before fitting F4 and F7.
  • Ensure F15 is fitted before gluing F9 and F10 to the upper, and lower, spines.
  • Fit the laminated WP1's before joining the two fuselage halves.
  • Assemble, and fit, the battery box before joining the fuselage halves.
  • Fit fuselage snakes (if required) before joining the fuselage halves.
  • Fit elevator pushrod to elevator bellcrank before joining the fuselage halves.
  • Fit elevator bellcrank between F15's before fitting fin.

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oops... I did not "request" it as it was originally a 'suggestion' made by novice builder - just like me - Andrew E.

But I think it's a splendid idea to have started one, Martin. yes

Also it would be a nice place for some 'Q & A's if anyone get stuck or has some doubts.

As for a start...

> Can/should we prepare and glue the reinforcement balsa blocks at the LE (close to the dowels) before joining the two wing halves?

Thanks Martin.

Cheers

Chris

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Hi Martin,

Unfortunately me again... wink

I noticed on your pic above that the false LE isn't touching R3 anymore after sanding your balsa blocks to receive the ply dowel support. Am I correct?

Also the height difference between R2 and R3 gives a quite 'sharp' bending to the top sheeting at R3.

Should that create some issue w/ the top sheeting or am I worrying too much? blush

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Chris

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Hi Martin, this is a very minor one, not really a "gotcha" but thought it may be worth adding.

The parts come with an occasional minor triangular shaped "pip" on their edges (presumably where they are released from the parent sheet). It's no problem at all to sand them off prior to use. A surface that perhaps may get missed from this sanding is the inside square section of F2 and F4 where the battery box sits on the internal flat portions of those formers. Easy job to do before the fus is jointed. Its no great shakes if it gets missed - just helps with a flush/ tight joint between battery box and formers.

Edited By Harry Twist on 30/11/2019 19:16:10

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  • 2 months later...

May be in the forum posts but here it is anyway:

The rib spacing at the outer ends of the wings is typically 50mm except the end ones (R13), these are 49mm. Make sure you have the wing jig part J7 the correct way round or you will fine is impossible to line up the jig correctly with the plan. The giveaway is that the ends of J7 are slightly different as I noticed on closer inspection when I couldn’t get it to line up!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Martin,

A couple of questions:

!. does the rear elevator wire need to be sleeved? It doesn't leave much meat on my bell crank.

2. Will 6mm Dia. nylon bolts do for the wing bolts.

Thank you and Gordon for introducing me to PS building - I'm not sure if I would have jumped in so quickly

if I'd known what was going to be involved. (So much to learn..........). Mine won't be the smartest model on the slopes. When I read what Phil and Dirk are up to it makes me realize I have a long way to go.

Hope to see you at the Orme in April.

Austin

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Hi Austin,

The rear elevator wire does not need to be sleeved, only the frontone - the pivot point of the elevator.

6mm wing bolts will be just fine.

Don't worry too much about what Dirk and Phil are able to do with their builds as they are masters of the craft. It gives us average builders something to aspire to.

See you on the Orme in June.

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Hi again Martin,

another problem I need advice on: The wing has been built and covered for a few weeks. It's been in the garage for quite a while.Yesterday I noticed that part of the balsa skin had lifted up off the ribs. I brought it indoors and it's all gone nice and tight again. I used Titebond as my glue. Will it be OK when I Fibreglass and paint it, or is there a way of re-glueing it without mass demolition?

Austin

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I'd try and fix that before glassing. If you know where the ribs / webbing is under the sheeting, I'd puncture the skins with a fat pin or needle in several places, through to the underlying structure. Wick thin cyano in through those holes whilst applying pressure to ensure skin adhesion.

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  • 1 year later...

All,

For those of you who plan to fit drop tanks, Phil Cooke has noted that they move the CG backward, on his model, by around 8mm. He thinks he needs to add weight to the nose of each tank to maintain the model CG with tanks on, or off.

Please double check your model CG with tanks on, and off.

Martin.

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