Jim Hughes 2 Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Hi all, Returning to the hobby after a long time. I’m about to start construction of a model which requires 10 mm depth servos for ailerons. I’ve yet to purchase the radio kit and I have a few questions. In the past I always used Futaba, is this still a product that is a good all-rounder? Or are there comparable to consider now? Also, when I’ve looked at the servo options for Futaba, I’ve not seen any 10mm depth servos? Can you mix with another brand by not changing the plugs? I must admit I’ve not looked very hard, but one (on line) supplier who I‘m going to be probably choosing is not listing Futaba 10mm servos. Also, covering, I also used to use Solarfilm / Solartex. I now notice they are no longer, what is the best alternative now? Thanks in advance Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Hi Jim and welcome to the forum! Futaba is to radios as Volkswagen is to cars, the industry standard! Futaba is still a well-respected brand. Some people never use anything else. Most of us use 2.4GHz equipment these days though the old FM stuff still works. There are several other popular brands of radio available today which may not have been about ten years ago. Why not pay a visit to your local club and see what the boys are using? As for servos, I nearly always buy Hitec servos which I've found to be extremely reliable. They will plug into a Futaba receiver without a problem but if you want to plug a Futaba servo into any other brand of receiver you will have to cut off the little tag which prevents the servo from being installed the wrong way round. I'm sure that Hitec will have a servo to suit you. **LINK** Profilm/Oracover is a good film made in Germany. Oratex is their equivalent to Solartex but it's only available in a limited range of colours. Film sold by Hobby King has a good reputation but I've never used it myself. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 "I’m about to start construction of a model which requires 10 mm depth servos for ailerons." Which model? "In the past I always used Futaba, is this still a product that is a good all-rounder? Or are there comparable to consider now?" Futaba is generally quite pricey. Most of my club use Spektrum. Have a look at the DX6E for a good all round set. www.servoshop.co.uk (Steve Webb Models) is one of the most comprehensive sources of servos of many brands as well as radio kit. DX6E here - **LINK** David is right, Hobbyking film is very good, but seems to sell out quickly when it comes in stock. The same stuff is sold by rapidrc here - https://www.rapidrcmodels.com/rapid-rc-cover-film-282-c.asp Edited By Nigel R on 12/06/2020 09:14:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason-I Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Hobbyking film is excellent considering the low price. I use it all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Many micro servers are only 10-12mm wide, placed sideways would these fit? Metal geared versions of these are every bit as good and as powerful as standard servos from 20 years ago, about a quarter of the weight, and a whole lot cheaper than specialist wing servos. As for radios, do a lot of looking before buying, lots of choice out there, with all sorts of facilities you would not have though possible years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 Morning all and thanks for the warm welcome. I’ve been looking at servos and Hitec do a wing servo at 10mm depth but rather pricey. Im going to do some more research next week. Thanks for the tips on covering and alternative radio kit, I’ll look into this too. I’m bound to be along later with more questions. The model I’m building is a NJR Mirus, Ken Stokes classic from the eighties, I have to say Nick has done a fantastic job revisiting this model, the kit he has produced is fantastic . i had a couple back in the day, and I’ve always hankered after another . Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Rapid seem to have a fair selection: https://www.rapidrcmodels.com/slim-wing-servo-165-c.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 **LINK** 8.1mm thick and £10.99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 Morning! Progress on the Mirus is coming along steadily, a ton of stuff has arrived over the last few days and I am going about things methodically. No radio gear yet but I’ll start seriously looking next week. On the subject of covering, which I should start thinking about, the products which have been previously mentioned in this thread. Is any special prep to be used for better results? I seem to remember back in the day that I used to use Balsa Loc with Solar Film - or nowadays is it just better to iron on to bare wood? Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Just the same as " back in the day " Jim Thin coat on bare balsa, and iron on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Welcome to the forum Jim.....enjoy your new old hobby..... Sadly Solarfilm are no longer with us so the film products & Balsa Loc are no longer available.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 Good morning all, well I’ve ordered some covering film from Hobby King and it should be here next week, I’ve also purchased some Balsa Loc - anyone used the two products and do they work well together? Also, I’ve ordered some Carbon Fibre rod to have a play with. Could this material be used as an elevator push rod? Wooden dowel just seems a bit old hat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 I've used fibreglass arrow shafts as push rods. Very rigid and lightweight. Hollow shafts are better than solid rods. Stiffer and lighter for comparable diameters. Edited By jrman on 27/06/2020 09:09:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor Chinnery Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 I've used CF fishing rod blanks too - just be aware that CF rod of any diameter can interfere with radio reception (even 2.4 gig I'm informed) so be careful where you site your receiver in relation to your pushrods. The ends of your CF rod need a bit of roughening up before you bind the wire for the connectors to it with thread, then glue with (thick is better) cyano. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Posted by Jim Hughes 2 on 27/06/2020 09:02:02: Good morning all, well I’ve ordered some covering film from Hobby King and it should be here next week, I’ve also purchased some Balsa Loc - anyone used the two products and do they work well together? Also, I’ve ordered some Carbon Fibre rod to have a play with. Could this material be used as an elevator push rod? Wooden dowel just seems a bit old hat. Good morning Jim. I have never used Hobby King film covering but it has an excellent reputation. However, I have used Balsa Loc with Solarfilm, Solartex and Profilm/Oracover. Generally I don't use Balsa Loc with film except on areas around the engine which are likely to get soaked in fuel and for repairs. It helps to promote adhesion. I also used it on the underside of the wings of my Big Guff because it has an under cambered or concave wing section. **LINK** As for wooden dowel I have just found a dowel with fittings on each end which is exactly the same size required for the DB Sport & Scale Auster I'm finishing off! A lesson in not throwing anything away! Dowels are fine unless you're building an out and out patternship. PS. The late Peter Russell who used to write in the aeromodelling press used four foot-long 1/4" balsa puhrods in his Big Guff but I'll admit that a Bug Guff is no patternship! Edited By David Davis on 27/06/2020 09:30:16 Edited By David Davis on 27/06/2020 09:39:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Mr Chinnery, That's why I use Fibreglass and not carbonfibre arrow shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 Evening everyone, I do sincerely apologise for asking daft questions! But my Hobby King film turned up today, ordered last Wednesday afternoon, arrived today from Hong Kong!!!! No instructions though? Does it have a removable backing material that Solar Film I think once had??!! Or does it iron straight on? I’d like to have a practice with my new iron on a few small pieces. Regards Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan h Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Hi jim. Yes it does have a removable backing which sometimes can be a right pita! Easy way to remove it is a piece of sellotape in a corner either side and pull apart. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Posted by dan h on 29/06/2020 16:53:05: Hi jim. Yes it does have a removable backing which sometimes can be a right pita! Easy way to remove it is a piece of sellotape in a corner either side and pull apart. Dan If only you had told me that yesterday as spent at least 10 minutes trying to remove the HK backing film and ending up stabbing the end of my finger with a blade in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 Cheers Fellas. Wonderfull forum, populated by knowledgeable kind enthusiasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 Wow, June last year! Ok, I’m picking this up again, model finished and Radio Gear installed in the last weeks. Engine start and running in? looking for some tips, it’s a brand new OS MAX 35 AX, fuel arrived today - Model Technics Contest 10. I never had a new engine the last time I was involved in the hobby! Always second hand. Do I just go off OS instructions? I’ve had a look on YouTube but a lot of the vids on there are for cars, I guess the principals of all nitro 2 strokes are the same. But I know there is a lot of knowledge and experience on this forum. Thanks in advance Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stainforth Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 I think it pays off to do it exactly as OS say. (Manufacturers of most things usually know more about their products than anyone else.) All this takes quite a bit of time and fuel. Ditto with the mixture control valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hughes 2 Posted August 29, 2021 Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 Ok apologies for this late but extremely early post 05:20 in the morning! ? A couple of weeks ago I had the first flight with the Mirus - terrifying! But, successful! However, we went out last week with it, decided to lean the engine of a bit, after a couple of circuits stood it on its tail - the engine cut. I had to make a hasty landing, the prop broke and I didn’t have a spare. Good old RC World sent me out some new props rapidly and I was running it yesterday. Same thing, absolutely fine on horizontal, point the nose up, after a few seconds it leans off rapidly and just stops. I’ve tried running it richer and it doesn’t make much difference. Clunk is not hitting back of tank etc, it’s had about 15 tanks of fuel through it - so run in? It’s an OS 35 Max (new) running on good quality fuel. Any advice would be welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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