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Seagull Challenger - First kit Build - First IC


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How exactly do they expect that to mount? If the axle is supposed to pinch the spat and hold it in place then it will eventually rotate around as the landing shocks will crush the wooden plate in the spat and then the whole thing will come loose. I recommend you at least drill one (2 ideally) holes through the ali undercarriage leg so that two screws can pass through the leg and hold the spat in place so i cannon rotate even if loose. 

Its not a nice setup though. I would bolt the wheel up tight without the spat, then modify the spat to drop over it and retain it with the two screws i mentioned earlier. My Hangar 9 pulse's used this method and it was worked very well. 

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I noticed that you showed an 11 x 5 prop in your photo.

The OS 40FP  won't rev but it will turn an  11 x 7 prop and that's the correct prop to use - everyone may say that's wrong but it's correct (at least for most versions of the 40FP)  See the engine tests at the time.   I was disappointed with my 40FP until I studied the engine tests and realised it would turn a large prop.   Of course the 11 x 5 will work but it won't do any more revs, so the 11 x 7 will give more power.

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I've just completed building the Challenger kit now starting to cover it.

I previously had the ARTF version for 3 years, was my go to model for a bit of fun, flying too low and fast hit the ground! Bought the kit at the start of lockdown for something to do.

Don't bother with the wheel spats as has previously been said. I had an OS 55AX in mine no additional weight required for c of g, the build instructions say 46-2 stroke or 70-4 stroke.

There is and good videos build on youtube (link below) which takes you through the build, the booklet that came with the kit has a few points missing or in the wrong sequence. If its your first kit build it would be worthwhile looking at the videos.

 

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Hi guys,

 

I decided to enter the realm of aero modeller and do some mods to make the spats fit. Just trimmed the axle and epoxy glued some M3 nuts on the inside so I could fit some extra M3’s to the spat. Not the lightest solution but feels solid.

 

 

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On 16/02/2021 at 16:47, kc said:

I noticed that you showed an 11 x 5 prop in your photo.

The OS 40FP  won't rev but it will turn an  11 x 7 prop and that's the correct prop to use - everyone may say that's wrong but it's correct (at least for most versions of the 40FP)  See the engine tests at the time.   I was disappointed with my 40FP until I studied the engine tests and realised it would turn a large prop.   Of course the 11 x 5 will work but it won't do any more revs, so the 11 x 7 will give more power.


that’s good to know! Will have to give an 11x7 a try. I just went with the OS manual but haven’t done much research into it

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On 16/02/2021 at 17:28, Russ P said:

Sorry, just seen the date of the original posting, probably built it by now.

Anyway good practice using the new website.

Hi Russ actually I’m still building this one. taking it easy as I bought this kit as my first plane so been trying to build up my flying experience before flying this one.

 

I’m not far off pretty much on the covering stage too but I decided to make life difficult and add some navigation lights too.

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  • 7 months later...

Very close now, did some taxi tests and really happy with how it’s turned out so far.

 

Last thing now is the c.g still too tail heavy and that’s using a c.g of 75mm from the LE (manual says 60mm).

 

needs ~100g at the engine to balance with an empty tank. Could I move my battery to sit under the motor? That way saving adding an extra weight?

 

Edited by Gsky
video updated to mp4
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i wouldnt recommend strapping a battery to a hot, oily and vibrating lump of metal. Mount it as far forward as you can and then just bung some lead in it. Its not a vicious model so c/g is not as critical as with a warbird or an aerobatic model. 

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Have helped fit out a Challenger recently,

And my newbie builder was tempted to form a hatch where you propose to fit an hatch

But there must be 90% of the nose strength there

our solution was to cut through some of the forward tank floor inside and

the battery fitted there and save a few ounces of nose weight not added for C of G

Edited by Denis Watkins
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