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Curtis Condor biplane twin


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Its getting cold in the workshop with no heating. This afternoon I did manage to construct one fuselage side frame before the chill got to my fingers. I know it would make sense to use a heater! The structure is 1/4 sq balsa and looks flimsy. It will eventually have formers added plus 32 stringers to give the correct bulbous look. In the meantime I am seriously contemplating adding some 1/8 x 1/4 diagonals between the uprights to give a bit more stability to the frames.

fuselage frame 1.jpg

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Built the second fuselage side. So now time to join them and start fuselage construction. However, the plan shows multiple formers that attach to the basic box frame. They are all notched to take the (32) stringers. That's a lot of cutting and notching. My past experience of cutting out this type of former (KK scale rubber models) warns me that a) the balsa will spit between the notches and b) That the stringers won't line up when they sit in the pre-cut notches and will look "wonky". So to save time and balsa I am very tempted just to cut out a basic shape (smooth outline along the base point of the notches and then align the stringers as I glue them on. The downside is that the 1/8" x 3/8" stringers will have very little contact area to glue to. Effectively just a 1/8"sq area of contact with each former. Is that enough?

fuselage sides.jpg

formers.jpg

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Posted by David Ovenden on 23/11/2020 11:59:43:

The downside is that the 1/8" x 3/8" stringers will have very little contact area to glue to. Effectively just a 1/8"sq area of contact with each former. Is that enough?

If you then fill in the missing former parts between the stringers you effectively restore the full joint strength, albeit with a tiny weight penalty for the extra glue used but with nice straight stringers.

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I don't think it will be much of a problem with the 3mm stringers glued to smooth formers rather than cutting notches which aren't likely to be super accurately positioned to make the stringer straight. The stringers and ultimate covering will support each other and they aren't really stuctural. It'll look a lot better if the stringers are straight. If you're using 'tex covering them that's even truer.

It's coming together very micely.

Geoff

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Piers, Tempted by one of those diesel heaters. Did you have to buy a silencer as an extra?

Geoff and Bob, Thanks for the feedback ideas. I'm going for the smooth contour formers. Can't be bothered to trace and try to cut out all those notches. I'm using Solartex (had lots in stock) so I need the stringers to look right.

I also decided to build some simple "formers" to go in key locations rather than just rely on 1/4" sq balsa to join the sides. Should keep things square and more rigid during the construction phase.

20201123_215517.jpg

 

 

Edited By David Ovenden on 23/11/2020 21:54:52

Edited By David Ovenden on 23/11/2020 21:58:38

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That's useful to know, David. It would also be useful to know which variety of supermarket so I can 'visit' and 'rescure' a few bits of liteply (or poplar) for future use.

When I was sailing 12'6" dinghies a club member used to use mahogany from packing cases for some of his builds. This was over 30 years ago so repurposing wood is not a new idea.

Geoff

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Another silent watcher here too David. My next project when (if) the current one is off the bench is another biplane twin, a 1/6 DH89a Dragon Rapide, which is also an older, overengineered, one piece (96" wing plan, so I'm particularly interested in how your split detachable wing solution works out. The Rapide wing is really thin, only 15mm or so, so joiner arrangement will be 'interesting'.

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Hi David,

I had the plans for a 96" DH Dragon (not the rapide) but sold them on a while back as I decided to do the Condor - and one big twin biplane was enough for me!

Good luck with your project. 15mm is not much depth to play with. But with a biplane, if the rigging is functional, it needed have massive joiners. I am lucky with the Condor that the wing is semi- symmetrical so there is a little more depth in the ribs to play with.

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Going together nicely David , I built a 48" span Hurricane from my own drawings and made the formers plain just marking the position on the first and last. I then laid the stringers on and glued them in place it worked fine.

Bobs suggestion would probably be better for yours due to the size,

Edited By Eric Robson on 25/11/2020 20:04:54

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Started to add stringers to the underside of the fuselage. I used a notched former at the wing seat but the rest were smooth. Seems to have worked fine. When everything is properly dried I can think whether the stringer/former joint need reinforcing. Currently I'm thinking it won't be necessary.

fuselage stringers.jpg

Also started carving the tail seat blocks so I can sheet/plank the rear fuselage lower tail section.

tail seat.jpg

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Progress been a bit slow. I have stripped 3 sheets of 1/8" balsa to make the many stringers that will be needed. Soldered up the connectors onto the ESC and motors and made some progress with cutting out the side/to formers. In the end I opted for a mix of notched and smooth. Notched at the both ends of a "run" and smooth in between.

fus side formers.jpg

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I am getting a little frustrated now because I really need to get on with building the wing centre sections so I can make progress on the fuselage. I need the lower wing centre section to line-up and finish the formers and stringers under the fuselage. And the top fuselage stringers can't go in until I've got the top wing centre section so I can fit and align the top wing structs that are bolted to 2 of the top fuselage formers.

AND.. I can't build the wings until I have the carbon fibre wing tubes that align and are integral to the wing build. I have been waiting 4 weeks for HK to deliver them from the EU warehouse. So its not as if its a delay from the HK warehouse.

In the meantime, I have finished off the underwing formers and components that support the undercarriage. I have also laminated some 3/16" "beams" that take the wing bolts but have to conform to the fuselage underside curve. I made a jig from a piece of old oak fence post and laminated 3 layers of ply to get the correct curvature.

formers in box.jpg

You can see that I have been able to use some upcycled wood from a "fruit crate" for a few parts.

underwing side .jpg

Fuselage section that will fit onto the lower wing centre section. (once I can get it built)

underwing with mount bars.jpg

The long beams will bolt the lower wing to the fuselage. They are fabricated from 3 layers of plywood.

wing bolt beams.jpg

Wing bolts beam being laminated on fence post former!

Edited By David Ovenden on 05/12/2020 13:10:41

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