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The Ohmen


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Steve

The devil is in the detail laugh

You will notice that there is a horizontal line across the drawing denoting that the top half is for a different model, you just need the lower section..

Someone has done a bi-plane version of Peters designs, but fee free to do a tri-plane version of the Ohmen….really fancy a tri-plane....I wonder what Peter would say?

PS The drawing comes from a double free plan and to save paper both models used three sheets.

Edited By Chris Walby on 11/12/2020 11:27:13

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  • 8 months later...

This was going to be for last years winter build so I had better get on with it and stop looking at the very tempting Sarik marketing I keep receiving.

 

Last night I unpacked the parcel and started the tedious job of popping out the laser cut parts.

 

Now I have started I will have to continue.

 

More to come.

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Even less tedious than copying them from a plan, transferring them to wood and cutting them out. 
 

(but before we go too far down the line of the 4 Yorkshiremen sketch, at least we have scroll saws and Permagrit to ease the task these days and don’t have to rely on one of Dad’s old razor blades any more!)

 

All the more rewarding when your creation takes to the air. 

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If you are cutting out the parts yourself with a bit of care the offcut from the fuselage doubler can be used for a wing rib template!   The rib template is always slightly thinner to allow for sheeting so some sanding is possible ( on designs with capstrips anyway )

 

 

 

 

Edited by kc
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Starting with the wing ribs. Fit the top and bottom spars using off cuts, this also removes that charred dust. Lightly sand the grouped ribs, again to remove the charred wood.

Removing the laser burnt wood is a good idea as the glue works better and the wing will not fall apart on the first heavy landing. 

 

IMG_20210820_145708104.thumb.jpg.b35edbadf71fd2b112ef072b743bf406.jpg

 

Next?

 

Set up the building board ready for the serious work to begin.

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On we go.

 

IMG_20210820_200302572.thumb.jpg.86f27d46bd98fb461dea5c1d6075fdcb.jpg

 

Bottom LE sheeting pinned in place then bottom spar cut to length glued and pinned.

TE bottom sheeting cut to length and width pinned in place.

TE spar cut to length and test fitted using ribs to set the distance as the plan and parts do not always match, in this case perfect.

It's always good to check the fit.

Next cut the shear webs and I could cut and glue the bottom rib caps. ? Then glue the ribs. 

I will decide tomorrow.

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All the parts for the wing made and test fitted.

 

IMG_20210822_080610676_HDR.thumb.jpg.d2d8fde056ff83ed33964046cc813763.jpg

 

One rib is way out, but don't worry as nothing is glued. 

 

Glue the ribs in and don't forget the paper tube, again!

Leave R1, glue the rest, insert tube, then glue R1.

That's what I will do, if I remember. ?

 

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The trick ( Peter's idea I think ) to get the paper tubes in is wrap the paper loosely around a pencil and poke into the holes then let it unwrap itself, then glue.   Worked for me and it's worth repeating in case anybody has not heard of the idea.   Once the paper tube has been glued in I find it worthwhile to insert a thin string ( using a tiny weight and gravity ) to enable the servo lead to be pulled in after covering.

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