3D printers recommended

[Ariel]

Very happy with my Ender 5 S1 with the Klipper Sonic pad. Depends a lot on what you want to do but the Ender is less expensive than the Bambu labs printers and works fine for my requirements. Even with Klipper 3D prints are measured in hours rather than minutes. 

[Keith Billinge]

Buy some silicon rubber spring substitutes and once you dial them in, they stay dialled. No more problems levelling the bed.

 

Buy Here

 

Edited April 6, 2024 by Keith Billinge

[EvilC57]

8 hours ago, Keith Billinge said:

Buy some silicon rubber spring substitutes and once you dial them in, they stay dialled. No more problems levelling the bed...

 

Thanks Keith, hadn’t seen those before. They look like they might be the answer to the bed drift problems on my Ender 3 V2. I have the supposedly upgraded yellow springs which were OK for a while, but I suspect may be the cause of my recent levelling problems. I’ll get some on order…

[Richard Thornton 2]

Slight deviation from the original thread but hopefully there is logic to the question.

 

Each printer has its own custom ‘software’ to operate, I realise that this software turns your creation into a sliced object, with multiple options to create the desired effect, to suitably placed on the bed and then, print.

 

My question is, what CAD software do or can you use to create your object in the first place. I realise this is a can of worms much like the choice of printers, each program has its own pro’s and con’s but this is why I am asking here.

 

I use an AutoCAD type package to draw bits to construct for my current projects, but it’s very much a 2D affair. I have drawn some things in 3D but get my knickers in a twist when trying to ‘fill’ the things by giving them depth and tubes and arc’s are as yet ‘issues yet to be resolved’.

 

I notice that a lot of folks seem to use Fusion 360 but the free option seems vague.

 

Hopefully I have provided enough food for thought and room to add to this really interesting and informative post started by Zflyer.

[PDB]

1 hour ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:

Slight deviation from the original thread but hopefully there is logic to the question.

 

Each printer has its own custom ‘software’ to operate, I realise that this software turns your creation into a sliced object, with multiple options to create the desired effect, to suitably placed on the bed and then, print.

 

My question is, what CAD software do or can you use to create your object in the first place. I realise this is a can of worms much like the choice of printers, each program has its own pro’s and con’s but this is why I am asking here.

 

I use an AutoCAD type package to draw bits to construct for my current projects, but it’s very much a 2D affair. I have drawn some things in 3D but get my knickers in a twist when trying to ‘fill’ the things by giving them depth and tubes and arc’s are as yet ‘issues yet to be resolved’.

 

I notice that a lot of folks seem to use Fusion 360 but the free option seems vague.

 

Hopefully I have provided enough food for thought and room to add to this really interesting and informative post started by Zflyer.

 

I wouldn't worry about Fusion360s limitations in the free version, I don't think it has hindered any RC hobbyist and they can be worked around (ie the 10 document limit) easily.

 

Another free package for hobbyists with some limitations is Solid Edge Community edition https://resources.sw.siemens.com/en-US/download-solid-edge-community-edition/

 

A alternative completely free open source 3D CAD application is FreeCAD https://www.freecad.org/

 

One common thing with all of the above being so popular is they all have a lot of tutorials and help available on the web.

 

Having tried all three IMO no CAD package is better than the other as they all produce the same output, an STL file for your slicer. You'll need to try them and find what works best for you.👍

Edited January 10 by PDB

[Richard Thornton 2]

2 minutes ago, PDB said:

 

I wouldn't worry about Fusion360s limitations in the free version, I don't think it has hindered any RC hobbyist and they can be worked around (ie the 10 document limit) easily.

 

Another free package for hobbyists with some limitations is Solid Edge Community edition https://resources.sw.siemens.com/en-US/download-solid-edge-community-edition/

 

A alternative completely free open source 3D CAD application is FreeCAD https://www.freecad.org/

 

Having tried all three IMO no CAD package is better than the other, you'll need to try them and find what works best for you.👍

Glad you mentioned that 10 document limit. I don’t fancy upsetting any legal restrictions on the program but 10 doesn’t seem to be worth the faff of buying a 3D printer for.

I do however realise that this isn’t the place to discuss ‘work arounds’.

Thing with Fusion 360 is the logic is very similar to AutoCAD and the tools are very similar too. It took a while to understand the logic ie Line - Draw, rather than Draw - Line, but once you’ve overcome that, boy it is a seriously powerful tool.

Appreciate your response particularly with the other options. 

[PDB]

19 minutes ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:

Glad you mentioned that 10 document limit. I don’t fancy upsetting any legal restrictions on the program but 10 doesn’t seem to be worth the faff of buying a 3D printer for.

I do however realise that this isn’t the place to discuss ‘work arounds’.

 

To help you understand what a document is in Fusion and the limit this video may help https://youtu.be/qj82QzhTq4s?si=rASQ6PsPFo15vv9f&t=83

 

For clarity the 10 document limit is "10 editable" documents, documents you are not currently editing  can be made read only.

 

For the design of an RC airframe I have used 1 project and 2 documents 👍

 

 

Edited January 10 by PDB

[EvilC57]

I found Tinkercad to be a good place to start in 3D CAD to produce .STL files for slicing & printing. I graduated to the free version of Fusion 360 after a while, but I’ve found that to be a much steeper learning curve.

[PDB]

25 minutes ago, EvilC57 said:

I found Tinkercad to be a good place to start in 3D CAD to produce .STL files for slicing & printing. I graduated to the free version of Fusion 360 after a while, but I’ve found that to be a much steeper learning curve.

Forgot about Tinkercad, seen some amazing RC airframes produced with it. 👍

[Richard Thornton 2]

48 minutes ago, EvilC57 said:

I found Tinkercad to be a good place to start in 3D CAD to produce .STL files for slicing & printing. I graduated to the free version of Fusion 360 after a while, but I’ve found that to be a much steeper learning curve.

Thanks for the info, did you resolve the issues with your Ender 3 V2.?

[Richard Thornton 2]

4 hours ago, PDB said:

To help you understand what a document is in Fusion and the limit this video may help https://youtu.be/qj82QzhTq4s?si=rASQ6PsPFo15vv9f&t=83

 

For clarity the 10 document limit is "10 editable" documents, documents you are not currently editing  can be made read only.

 

For the design of an RC airframe I have used 1 project and 2 documents 👍

 

 

Really good tutorial, explains the workaround and definitions, many thanks PDB

[Phil Green]

I've also been tempted for a good while now, quite fancy the Bamboo A1 not that I know anything about it or its alternatives...
Not sure why a 'PEI' plate is an extra, I take it that would be an essential?  Dont think I need multi colour.   They 'dont recommend' ABS, is that a problem?  Utterly out of my depth to be honest  😁

 

[Ron Gray]

A textured PEI build plate is included but you can buy other build plates if you want, such as a smooth PEI one. Due to it being an open frame design with no enclosure, printing with filaments such as ABS which require higher and more controlled temperatures, is not recommended. If you have no need for printing with these and are happy with PLA and PETG then it’s not a problem. 90% of my printing using my X1C (and it’s used a lot) is with PLA, PETG and TPU.

[EvilC57]

19 hours ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:

Thanks for the info, did you resolve the issues with your Ender 3 V2.?

If you’re referring to the silicone rubber spring substitutes Richard, yes they did improve things, but the bed still drifts around sometimes. I’m just careful to do a manual levelling exercise before I start a print run.

[FlyinFlynn]

13 hours ago, Phil Green said:

?  Utterly out of my depth to be honest  😁

....and so you will remain until you take the plunge! 🙂   Listening to the experiences of others will only take you so far, the rest is up to experimentation and failures!

 

I think you will find ABS requires a higher hotend and build plate temperature, something that may not be attainable without an enclosure on some (lower) specced hardware.

 

I would hazzard a guess and say there will not be many people that still use their first 3D printer after a year or so. You are not still driving your first car are you?

[EvilC57]

3 hours ago, FlyinFlynn said:

I would hazzard a guess and say there will not be many people that still use their first 3D printer after a year or so. You are not still driving your first car are you?

I am, after nearly 3 years. Although I must admit I’m just looking for an excuse to change my Ender 3 V2 for a Bambu P1S!

[Erfolg]

I use an Ender 3. Most issues are me.

 

I rely on this forum, and club members mostly related to Fusion and Ultimaker.

 

With the Ender, it has been release issues or non adherence when starting a print. I bought a glass platen, which does not work for me, I have since purchased some stick on print surfaces, these work well, as the original platen do not seem to be available.

 

You will be surprised how many items I have designed made and used. I have 3 cards now full, now on my 4th.. 

 

All the problems relate to me

[Richard Thornton 2]

On 11/01/2025 at 07:50, Ron Gray said:

A textured PEI build plate is included but you can buy other build plates if you want, such as a smooth PEI one. Due to it being an open frame design with no enclosure, printing with filaments such as ABS which require higher and more controlled temperatures, is not recommended. If you have no need for printing with these and are happy with PLA and PETG then it’s not a problem. 90% of my printing using my X1C (and it’s used a lot) is with PLA, PETG and TPU.

Morning Ron, just thinking about the another post earlier in this thread,3D printing does open a can of worms.

I have spent the last 2 weeks reading and watching everything related to the subject and it seems the more I learn, the more questions there are to be asked.

PLA is cheap and cheerful, can be painted but isn’t waterproof and isn’t UV tolerant, so something like a cockpit seat or dashboard wouldn’t be any good.

PETG is also good and easy to print BUT doesn’t take paint very well, if at all, or does it? It’s UV tolerance is good therefore something cockpit wise would be best made in this material but how do you get around painting it, ie to weather it if it’s printed in the appropriate colour to start with.

TPU is flexible and used for something like pilots, rubber gaiters that sort of thing.

ABS / ASA seem a good choice but I think that due to heat/enclosure/odour/complexity and cost, maybe that’s something to avoid initially until the L plates have been removed.

Thoughts?

I am thinking of printing off some cockpit details, seat, controls, switches for my 1/4 scale Tigermoth and as this is a totally new area of modelling for me, any help is always welcome.

[PDB]

25 minutes ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:

 

PLA is cheap and cheerful, can be painted but isn’t waterproof

It is waterproof, fuel tanks and boat hulls have been printed with it.

[Richard Thornton 2]

45 minutes ago, PDB said:

It is waterproof, fuel tanks and boat hulls have been printed with it.

PLA filament, which is a popular material for 3D printing, is not naturally waterproof, and so it requires additional treatment to become waterproof. 
Ok that is taken from google and some other sources say it is “Compared to the rest of popular materials, PLA has the worst weather-resistance.”

As I said, all comments are welcome and as I don’t actually own a printer yet, everyone is an expert. If your saying PLA is ‘adequate’ in our hobby, then that’s the sort of positive input I was hoping for.

[PDB]

2 minutes ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:

PLA filament, which is a popular material for 3D printing, is not naturally waterproof, and so it requires additional treatment to become waterproof. 
Ok that is taken from google and some other sources say it is “Compared to the rest of popular materials, PLA has the worst weather-resistance.”

As I said, all comments are welcome and as I don’t actually own a printer yet, everyone is an expert. If your saying PLA is ‘adequate’ in our hobby, then that’s the sort of positive input I was hoping for.

You will also find other sources saying it is water proof, hygroscopic, will melt when the sun comes out, etc., etc.

 

IME and others it has performed fine for modelling needs.

[Ron Gray]

I would, and have, quite happily printed cockpit stuff using PLA after all I'm painting the parts so that gives them protection from UV. As a general rule I do not use PLA for any parts likely to be stressed or exposed to the environment (unprotected) for these I either use PETG or ASA / ABS but as you've discovered the latter need a controlled heat environment (enclosure) to get consistent good results. For light weight then PLA-LW is excellent so printing say pilots from this filament offers a good weight saving and it is the filament used for most 3D printed models, having said that I'm using ASA-LW which has the advantage of being more environmentally robust!

 

My advice is to start off with PLA as it is by far the easiest to print with and also the cheapest.

[Richard Thornton 2]

7 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

I would, and have, quite happily printed cockpit stuff using PLA after all I'm painting the parts so that gives them protection from UV. As a general rule I do not use PLA for any parts likely to be stressed or exposed to the environment (unprotected) for these I either use PETG or ASA / ABS but as you've discovered the latter need a controlled heat environment (enclosure) to get consistent good results. For light weight then PLA-LW is excellent so printing say pilots from this filament offers a good weight saving and it is the filament used for most 3D printed models, having said that I'm using ASA-LW which has the advantage of being more environmentally robust!

 

My advice is to start off with PLA as it is by far the easiest to print with and also the cheapest.

Thanks Ron

[leccyflyer]

1 hour ago, Richard Thornton 2 said:

Morning Ron, just thinking about the another post earlier in this thread,3D printing does open a can of worms.

I have spent the last 2 weeks reading and watching everything related to the subject and it seems the more I learn, the more questions there are to be asked.

PLA is cheap and cheerful, can be painted but isn’t waterproof and isn’t UV tolerant, so something like a cockpit seat or dashboard wouldn’t be any good.

PETG is also good and easy to print BUT doesn’t take paint very well, if at all, or does it? It’s UV tolerance is good therefore something cockpit wise would be best made in this material but how do you get around painting it, ie to weather it if it’s printed in the appropriate colour to start with.

TPU is flexible and used for something like pilots, rubber gaiters that sort of thing.

ABS / ASA seem a good choice but I think that due to heat/enclosure/odour/complexity and cost, maybe that’s something to avoid initially until the L plates have been removed.

Thoughts?

I am thinking of printing off some cockpit details, seat, controls, switches for my 1/4 scale Tigermoth and as this is a totally new area of modelling for me, any help is always welcome.

Most of my early printing was in PLA, as it is probably the most forgiving "plastic" to print with, at around 180 degrees C and doesn't need an enclosure for hobby printers. Almost all of the many scale pilot figures that I have printed over the past several years have been PLA and show no signs of degradation, I suppose that since they are painted that isn't a test of UV stability. I find PLA isn't the easiest to work with subsequently if any sanding or carving is needed - it doesn't cut well with a saw or a knife. However, for a beginner, as I was, it's ease of use is a big attraction. The heat stability might be an issue in hot places, and is one of the reasons PLA does not sand or cut well with power tools, but I haven't found it an issue in Scotland and have also made multiple successful vac formed canopies using PETG  over printed PLA plugs.

 

Personally I had very little success with ABS, until I got an enclosure, suffering severe warping and curling on the edges. With an enclosure it's now my preferred filament as the parts fix together beautifully with ordinary styrene solvent, rather than having to use CA, plus as styrene it sands well, cuts beautifully and is strong enough - after all we have been using ABS parts on models for decades.

 

For the things you are proposing such as cockpit details etc, those are the jobs that I bought my first printer for and PLA is ideal for the job, due to ease of use, especially for a first time printer novice.

[PeterF]

I have a temporary enclosure made from 2mm MDF shhets that I put around my 3D printer when printing ASA. I went to ASA after learning on PLA and PETG and have also printed in TPU. I have printed parts in all 4 filaments for RC planes including a complete Stearman in PLA before PLA-LW came out. The only issue I have had is the PLA nose cone on my Vulcan distorting when I left it too long in the back of the car with the sun shining on it through the curved tailgate glass. I have some bits printed in both black and white ASA on the outside of my boat (full size not RC) that have been permanently outside now for 4 years with no sign of degradation. None of my Tiger Moth was printed as I bought the printer after I completed that.