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DB Sport and Scale Auster J1 Autocrat


Danny Fenton

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7 hours ago, Dwain Dibley. said:

Looks like I may have  from this pic Danny.

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Thanks D you have also answered another question, usually when you sheet a leading edge, the sheeting would come back to a spar to support the wood between the ribs. This design leaves the sheeting floating!

Really appreciate the pics ?

Cheers

Danny 

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1 minute ago, Dwain Dibley. said:

It would seem that the sheeting goes back to the top stringer.

Where you have added extra wood to the aileron , I think I added a strip of thin ply to the top edge.

D.D. 142.1 kB · 0 downloads

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Hi DD The top sheeting is fine, but there is no stringer on the lower surface, I had thought the sheeting would go back to the main spar, but the supplied wood isn't wide enough. Underside sheeting it seems to be unsupported?

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As far as the aileron shroud, I added triangle stock and some 1/16 to join the rib capping. As you know I have modified the ailerons to be Friese shaped.

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Really appreciate your pictures and help though. We are hopefully documenting a path for others further down the line.

Cheers

Danny

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Well things are progressing. I am not sure I should be allowed to build other designers kits, I can never understand their thinking, and blindly following the instructions doesn't always work sadly.

Firstly I fitted the anchor nuts to the strut fixing plates, and secured them in the wing, all very straightforward.

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I used circles of ply rather than a square as suggested as it is easier to fit.

 

Then on to the blessed wing retaining clips. They seem to work okay, but I am not a fan. Anyway assembled as per instructions the threaded portion of the bolt restricts the piano wire from penetrating the unit fully. reverse the screws and fit with the heads uppermost means the nuts extend beyond the wing skin.

The correct length screws is clearly the answer.

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It rather flippantly says in the instructions ensure the piano wire is parallel to the root rib, well it isn't sigh. Without the fuselage to align this too I may be stuck. And of course the lower wing sheeting cannot go on until these are fixed in place.

 

Sigh.......

 

 

 

Edited by Danny Fenton
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9 minutes ago, alan p said:

Two steps forward -three steps back !! Just keep taking the pills Danny?

Thanks Alan, really not what I expected that's for sure.

 

Has anybody experience of these sprung steel retainers, do they work? can you get the wing off and on again without either breaking things or cursing? seem to need more force than I expected.

 

Anyway, blindly onwards...................

 

Fortunately I have countersunk screws so that solves that problem.

 

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Fitted the rear block into the wing.

 

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alas because I misread the instructions, and slipped down a line, I sheeted the lower leading edge before fitting the retainer assembly, so some sheeting will need to come off to allow access. Nothing wrong with the instructions this time, purely me not following instructions......

 

Cheers

Danny

Edited by Danny Fenton
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I have pics of that part of the assembly Danny, At work now but when I get home I will post. 

The wing retainers work for a while but get looser and looser, I made some inconspicuous screw in plates in the top of the wing and fus in the end.

Getting them off requires cursing.

Looking good tho Matey .  ?

D.D.

Edited by Dwain Dibley.
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All the capping done I decided to sort the aileron hinging. As you will have noticed I have altered the ailerons from square fronted, mylar hinging ailerons (yuck), to proper friese ailerons. The leading edge of the ailerons was bulked up with scrap balsa, and rounded off. The hinge position worked out. its a long way back from the aileron leading edge at around 18mm.

I bored some holes and threaded piano wire to check everything aligned, and it did so I then cut brass tube to act as hinges to piano wire rods. If you have built a few Brian Taylor models you will know this technique.

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A slight deviation is caused by the upsweep of the wingtips. This means the usual wing tip holding a brass tube bearing could not be used, so instead I had to make an interim hinge point from glass board with a small brass bushing.

 

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This meant I could thread everything up and adjust the interim hinge against the adjacent rib until the fit was good, then some thin CA and we were done. Really happy with the hinges absolutely free and no slop.

 

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The other benefit is if you slide a long piano wire in from the root then the aileron is removable.

 

Cheers

Danny

 

Edited by Danny Fenton
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6 minutes ago, Dwain Dibley. said:

Just to totally underwhelm you, here's the pic I took, it does look like I also used countersunk machine screws, but I cannot prove it LOL

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When you build the fuselage perhaps you could add some ply in the right places to take the inevitable screw fixings Danny, I had to cut the covering when I did mine.

 

D.D.

 

Thanks DD that confirms it ?

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Took a look at adding flaps. This is a lot of work for simple split flaps, but what the heck.

First I made the flap skin from G10 (fibreglass board) this is the thicker of the material Mick Reeves sells.

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Then I fashioned some ribs from 32nd ply, mounting them on a 4mm carbon tube.

 

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Once the wing trailing edge was removed I could see three circuit board hinges would suffice. 

 

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The flap was a little flexible so I added ply diagonals, it is much more rigid now.

 

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Eric Robson said:

Great work as usual Danny, My son built one of those with a big Plettenburg brushed motor. It was sold unflown . The fellow who bought it said he had a job getting it down, it just wanted to float on and on. 

Thanks Eric. So you are saying the flaps will be helpful ?

 

Cheers

Danny

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