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DB Sport and Scale Auster J1 Autocrat


Danny Fenton

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Either that or grind up some 1/4 or 1/3 scale size zig zag blades for my pinking shears, that would be easier I think.

Only need a blade jig like the ones used for sharpening chainsaw blades but attached to a drill bit sharpening grinder attachment.

I'll have a play.

 

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9 minutes ago, John Minchell said:

Either that or grind up some 1/4 or 1/3 scale size zig zag blades for my pinking shears, that would be easier I think.

Only need a blade jig like the ones used for sharpening chainsaw blades but attached to a drill bit sharpening grinder attachment.

I'll have a play.

 

Hi John, you can buy pinking shears with a 2mm spacing, which is around 40% I would love to know how to make circular meshing teeth at 1.25mm (1/4 scale). Let us know how you get on, Gary Sibert had clearly found a way to make a continuous pinked cut.....

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On 02/04/2022 at 17:44, Danny Fenton said:

Had a good rummage on the web John and struggling to find your first aid tape, have you a link?

 

Cheers

Danny

 

Sorry Danny, I've only just picked up on the question. The tape I used is from a company called Physical and its simply labelled as Sports First Aid. Its says its zinc oxide tape and latex free. Putting that into the search came up with this:

 

https://firstaid4sport.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAjw0a-SBhBkEiwApljU0g3RbuTuy_ZffS68-sNzfI3rAhdGHARn-yS0a6kwHK2qHxgRPQZLHBoC63IQAvD_BwE

 

It looks the same but can't be sure being out of the wrapper.

The wrapper on the stuff I have says its distributed by Physical Sports Ltd, 17 Dam Rd, Barton-on-Humber DN18 5AS.

If you are looking for a sharp saw-tooth edge, this won't give that. At first it looks to have a good edge but by the time its been stripped of adhesive and applied to a surface (I use fabric cement) the sharp saw-tooth edge is lost, but its passable from a distance.  

 

1102959947_ribtape.thumb.jpg.aa48a5ec593f3375bc2ed93cee3eb94e.jpg

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Started to look at the struts.

In the kit there are ploycarbonate (plastic) plates to sandwich in the ends of the struts as anchor plates. I had heard from others that this cracks over time so I decided some 1.5mm steel would suit my needs better.

I have soldered an M2 nut on the back of the steel, and it will be epoxied into the slot in the struts once I have made the other ends and set the distances.

 

771.thumb.jpg.e34113f1de37a58d97608a116b6fecc5.jpg

 

773.thumb.jpg.b13839f6f9edefbcc46eb164068f5c24.jpg

 

772.thumb.jpg.685bfe13f0caac0b48fdab185c6bf9de.jpg

 

Cheers

Danny

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Yeah that was bonkers, the screws are meant to go in from above, but the undercarriage is in the way!! I think my solution of some soldered nuts on the cabin side will help.

 

I would like to have used nylocs, but maybe a drop of blue Loctite will stop them coming lose.

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38 minutes ago, cymaz said:

You could always drill a hole in each fixing bolt and wire them around the Strut in case of coming loose.....it’s a bit of a faff though.

It would be especially as the model has to be de-rigged to get in the car.

I will check them regularly during a session. If I suddenly get floppy dihedral then best land!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

What a great souce of information. I was going to buy a DB Piper Cub but could find little information.

So it looks as though it will be the Auster. What a great idea the Merlyn Locks are, well worth the effort. So many tips. I will be fitting a Laser 80 so I will have to rework the motor box ect to lower the tank. From all the various photos it looks like it should not br too difficult.

Look forward to the completion of you Auster Danny

Thanks Danny & DD for such good information.

Hugh

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3 hours ago, Hugh P said:

What a great souce of information. I was going to buy a DB Piper Cub but could find little information.

So it looks as though it will be the Auster. What a great idea the Merlyn Locks are, well worth the effort. So many tips. I will be fitting a Laser 80 so I will have to rework the motor box ect to lower the tank. From all the various photos it looks like it should not br too difficult.

Look forward to the completion of you Auster Danny

Thanks Danny & DD for such good information.

Hugh

Glad you have found it useful, I have been side-tracked with the Indoor  R/C Scale Nationals, brilliant event but lack of practice meant only a bronze in scale and a silver in the new kit scale.

Just sorting the struts on the Auster, then we are looking at paint.

 

I have a very old DB Sport and Scale Cub kit here if anybody wants to make me an offer, it will never get built.

 

Cheers

Danny

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21 minutes ago, Charles Hart said:

Hi Danny – what's the wing span?

Of the Cub? It is 84" a quite early kit, but looked complete when I got it. Didn't really look I wanted the Auster, not quite sure why I bought it lol

 

Cheers

Danny

 

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Weighed the Auster this evening, no paint yet. Just paint and a prop is all that's missing. Oh and a Rx battery.

3.94kg 8.7lbs . Leaves me a kilo to still be eligible for light scale.

Finished the struts today, amazing how they have locked what were quite floppy wings. Set to around 1.5 degrees Dihedral, looks about right.

 

C of G about right with no fuel and no Rx batt, so scope to adjust.

 

774.thumb.jpg.2ac68de8816d83cc72497632514a7bff.jpg

 

Cheers

Danny

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Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, Simon Chaddock said:

Of course on the full size the wings are completely floppy without the struts. ? 

 

Still an amazing degree of detail.

Absolutely! And thanks, fun so far, itching to paint....

 

Edited by Danny Fenton
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