Gyroo!...an autogyro for under £25?

[Bob Bertram]

R/C Model Aeroplane?

[Richard Harris]

1 hour ago, Bob Bertram said:

R/C Model Aeroplane?

I think that's it Bob, Thank you ?

[codepox]

Thanks, I did not know it was called with a different name in the USA.

 

[Stephen Jones]

Some pictures of My build of the prototype Gyroo.

[Stephen Jones]

So here I start at the tail,

 

Simple sheet construction with some triangle balsa added to fix the Tailplane to.

 

 

Now covered ready for assembly notice the holes into which will go the bolts later.

 

 

Here I have added a Tail skid made from wire which is inserted and glued.

 

 

Steve

 

[Stephen Jones]

So now the Tailplane can be glued onto the Fin and the Rudder to the Fin I used packing tape as my hinge for the Rudder.

 

 

Remember to remove some of the covering where it meets the Triangle support to aid better gluing surface area

 

 

Here you can see the packing sims needed.

 

 

I used some packing tape to hold them in position to aid Bolt hole alignment.

 

 

Now a simple case of slotting them together.

 

 

Small Bolts are needed to bolt here.

 

 

Don`t forget to add a control for for the Rudder.

 

 

That was easy.

 

Steve.

 

 

 

 

[Stephen Jones]

Ok,

So now that the Tail section is done I started on the Front half of the body.

 

This 1\4 inch thick Balsa section is the Meat between the sandwich of two Lite-ply sides that aids the correct alignment of the Boom and Mast and of coarse the Motor mount.

 

 

Richards, Final version maybe slightly different to mine as I decided to construct mine with one Battery mount Plate rather than cutting out two parts.

 

 

[Stephen Jones]

So here is the Body with the Lite-ply glued over the 1/4 Balsa section, you can also see the 1/4 inch Spruce Boom and Mast along with the Battery mount plate and the parts that make up the Motor mount which incorporates the undercarriage wire.

 

 

Bolt holes are  drilled while both Boom and Mast are in position to aid removal if they become damaged.

 

 

I covered these with Solar Film and cut away small sections of the film to aid glue to bond the parts better.

 

 

 

So for me it was now a simple case of sliding the Battery plate over the central body then I can begin to add the Ply Motor parts.

 

 

Hopefully you can see how theses parts key into position which in turn acts as a jig for the Battery plate.

 

 

Wood glue is used to glue the Battery plate into position any excess can be wiped away to leave a clean finish.

 

 

Triangle stock Balsa can now be glued onto the rear of the motor mount making a secure bond between the Battery plate and the Body.

 

 

Now we need to add the Undercarriage wire guide.

 

 

Make sure you get a nice tight fit.

 

 

I needed to add another layer of Ply to come level with the 10 swg Undercarriage legs. Which is a simple 90 degree bend.

 

Steve

Edited April 13, 2022 by Stephen Jones
missing text

[Richard Harris]

Nice neat work Steve,

 

Is this your original build or the one for your clubmate?

 

Rich

[Stephen Jones]

On 14/04/2022 at 09:12, Richard Harris said:

Nice neat work Steve,

 

Is this your original build or the one for your clubmate?

 

Rich

 

This is my original build.

 

Clubmate has backed out said he wants to wait for warmer weather  !! ?

 

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

Now we can glue the motor mount over the undercarriage wire and I used packing tape to cover the ply before screwing my motor in place which in turn holds the undercarriage tight.

 

 

 

 

 

I also used packing tape to cover the undercarriage wire.

 

Steve

Edited April 21, 2022 by Stephen Jones

[Stephen Jones]

Packing Tape was also used to cover the mast.

So now I inserted the mast into position and bolted into place then I fitted the servos followed by the Razor head.

 

 

 

The Rudder servo simply slots into the hole where as the Head servos need to be fitted back to back and the servo arms need to be directly under and in line with the Razor head control points so that the connecting rods are parallel with the mast.

 

Head servos,

I used one servo to mark up two mounting holes which I then drilled all the way through to the other side of the body then I used double sided foam pads that where supplied with my servos to hold one servo in place while pushed the three bolts all the way through to the other side.

I had to use spacers to take up the gap between the mounting lugs and the body. This insures that the two head servos are directly back to back with each other.

 

Edited April 22, 2022 by Stephen Jones

[Stephen Jones]

Servos,

 

 

 

Steve

[Stephen Jones]

The Electronic Speed Controller, ESC

 

 

Mine is held in place with a Velcro strap simple and has not come lose on me.

 

Steve

[Stephen Jones]

Receiver and connecting wires.

 

 

 

 

Double sided foam pad is all that is needed to hold the receiver in place and any slack cable can be cable tied up like so.

 

Steve

[Stephen Jones]

Now all we need to do is slide the boom into position.

 

 

 

And bolt in place.

 

Steve.

 

[Stephen Jones]

Connect the rudder servo rod to the rudder control horn.

 

 

 

 

I used a terminal block here after removing the plastic this will allow me to make any adjustments without altering my trim.

 

Steve

 

Edited April 22, 2022 by Stephen Jones

[Stephen Jones]

The battery is strapped into position.

 

Steve

Edited April 22, 2022 by Stephen Jones

[Stephen Jones]

The blades need to be sanded and balanced before fitting to the delta plate.

 

 

My set of blades are shorter than Richards recommended set so best I don't go into much detail here. ?

 

Steve.

[Stephen Jones]

And this is it all finished.

 

 

 

Note the tilt on the head here.

 

 

This is correct for level flight when viewed from the side the head should be 90 degrees to the boom.

 

As Richard has already mentioned each model will be slightly different in balance and weight so the true angle may differ on yours which is why it is important to perform test hops first.

 

Also when it comes to trimming flights I find it best to fly it around, land it then alter any trims rather that struggle with it in the air while trying to find where the trims are on your radio set then losing the model.

 

Have fun.

 

And do give this one ago being modular it is easy to slot any damaged parts into place and because you can make any part yourself you can be back flying in no time.

Were as if it was a bought affair you would have to wait until that part comes in, provided it is not out of stock.

 

The key to learning is to keep at it and you can with a model like this  so why not make a few spare parts and take them with you when you go flying and should you have a mishap simply replace the broken part and have another go.

 

It is no good going home waiting for a part to come in or having to make that part only to find that the weather has turned bad and now you have an even longer wait before you can start learning to fly your auto gyroo forgetting all you had learned on the previous outing.

 

Steve

[Steven S]

What would you suggest for a spares list besides a couple of propellers and rotor blades?

[Stephen Jones]

5 hours ago, Steven S said:

What would you suggest for a spares list besides a couple of propellers and rotor blades?

Tailplane, fin, boom ,mast

Should cover it ?

 

Steve.

[Deanland Duffer]

Having had a good look at the plans and article for the Gyroo I have a couple of questions. 

There appears to be no hole shown on the blade for the fixing bolt.

I don't  understand the balancing process. Thick I know but that's what advancing years does to you.

[Stephen Jones]

2 hours ago, Deanland Duffer said:

Having had a good look at the plans and article for the Gyroo I have a couple of questions. 

There appears to be no hole shown on the blade for the fixing bolt.

I don't  understand the balancing process. Thick I know but that's what advancing years does to you.

 

That's right no fixing hole shown on blade as the balance point is un-known until you balance your blades.

And then once you have found your balance point you make the fixing hole 1 mm behind of that point.

Page 48-49.

 

This is because wood is grown and not made, so the weight is not even along the wood.

 

Steve. 

[Deanland Duffer]

On 24/04/2022 at 20:19, Stephen Jones said:

 

That's right no fixing hole shown on blade as the balance point is un-known until you balance your blades.

And then once you have found your balance point you make the fixing hole 1 mm behind of that point.

Page 48-49.

 

This is because wood is grown and not made, so the weight is not even along the wood.

 

Steve. 

Many thanks Steve. I think I now understand what's going on.

Shaun