Peter Miller Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 Wrong cowling. NO DUMMY ENGINE ON MINE WRONG REGISTRATION> MINE HAD NO DIHEDRAL. I am searching for photos and I have bought the relevant copy of RCM&E on Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 I think I'd be complaining bitterly to RCM&E for publishing an article in your name then Peter if you didn't design it. Ditto with Sarik listing the plan as one of your designs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 (edited) If you are an RCME subscriber then the archive copies of many years are available online and now you use the same login as for this forum. So the Feb 2010 issue is available and this article starts on page 88. Interestingly it shows a photo of the (perhaps earliest use? ) of the Miller 'keyhole ' slotted screw cowl fixing now used on most Peter Miller designs. It also shows a photo of the tapered ply wedge under the engine mount giving the side and downthrust. Another confusing thing is that Sarik list it as 47inch which normally means the span, but for this model the span is 86 inch and the fuselage is shown as 47 inch long. Edited December 1, 2021 by kc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Belshaw Posted December 1, 2021 Author Share Posted December 1, 2021 This is what I have: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 Well, I have to admit that it is my plan so I stand corrected and apologise . I was convinced that I duplicated my first one, G-BOOD It must be senility creeping (Galloping ) in Sorry!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 Peter, it's understandable if you forgot one out of your hundreds of plans! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 THanks KC What threw me most was the way that the photo of the plan seemed to show bulges on the cowl sides which vanished when the whole plan was shown. Who says that the camera cannot lie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 20 hours ago, Peter Miller said: it is my plan Peter that is good news for me as I bought this earlier in the Sarik sale. I should have it in a couple of weeks. I have some questions but they can wait as my memory is not as good as it used to be and I will probably forget the answer and maybe that I had even asked the question. 'there's no joy in getting old' as my Dad says. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 Considering the recent exchanges (see above) I would not rely on my answers being accurate? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 In the picture above from the RMC&E article the servos are in the tail also I see lead is this due to a nose heavy issue? Now let's see who forgets first.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 The servos (Micro) were at the tail because it would have meant very long snakes. The engine was an OS FS40 Surpass. The lead would added to get the balance right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 2, 2021 Share Posted December 2, 2021 Thanks Peter I hadn't thought about the snakes being very long. That's got me thinking again ? obviously mine will be electric so there will not be any balance issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 @Stephen Belshaw any progress? I am particularly interested in how the battery will be accommodated to achieve the CofG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Belshaw Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 32 minutes ago, EarlyBird said: @Stephen Belshaw any progress? I am particularly interested in how the battery will be accommodated to achieve the CofG. Not got far enough in with the build to fine tune battery placement but will hopefully update later with current state of build. I'm working on the assumption that as Peter's prototype was designed and built around IC our EP versions will be nose light which I'm hoping can be addressed with battery/equipment placement and very little if any lead. But, as mentioned in my OP, I'm coming from a glider background so somewhat in unfamiliar territory! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Belshaw Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 Two fuselage sides completed, very straightforward, one built on the plan and the other built on top whilst leaving the original in place: The next job was to form the undercarriage and wing supports from 8swg wire, these need to be added to F2 and F3 before the formers are glued in place. This was the first time I'd attempted such heavy duty bending, a fair amount of trial and error resulted in wasting wire but I finally settled on reasonably accurate knowing I can fettle the formers and bend the wire a little when all is in situ: This is the tool I used for the job, I found it very hard to judge exactly where to place the wire in the bender to get the correct position of the radius, experience is everything with this job I think: Next was to attach the strut mounting points to F2 and F3, made up of clevises bound and soldered in place: Thinking a little further ahead about where and how to locate the battery, it just squeezes between F1 and F2 and would drop in through the removable cockpit floor. However I think because of the enclosed and confined space I think it might be difficult to then strap it in place which would leave me relying only on velcro. That's assuming of course that the battery needs to go all the way forward, which I think it will. Located further aft would be much simpler: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 Looking good Stephen! Are you going with the side- and down-thrust...? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 It looks as though the Lipo might be able to go in vertically behind F1 which might improve the CG situation. Otherwise consider using an open ended box arrangement with a Lipo size hole in F1 instead of the adjustable bolts to allow the Lipo to go almost up to the motor. Or much wider spaced bolts to achieve the same thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 Looking very good. I have a very good tool for wire bending which is similar to yours. but it still takes practice . I would imagine that your battery could go in at an angle sloping down towards the bottom of F-2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jonathan M said: Looking good Stephen! Are you going with the side- and down-thrust...? The down thrust is possibly needed but not any side thrust As said, rudder is used for that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Belshaw Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Jonathan M said: Looking good Stephen! Are you going with the side- and down-thrust...? Thank you. As it's on the plan yes, unless advised otherwise! Edit: just seen PM's comment so will eliminate the side thrust. Edited December 3, 2021 by Stephen Belshaw Events dear boy ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Belshaw Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 15 minutes ago, Peter Miller said: Looking very good. I have a very good tool for wire bending which is similar to yours. but it still takes practice . I would imagine that your battery could go in at an angle sloping down towards the bottom of F-2. I was thinking that Peter, once I've got the fuselage together I can jiggle around and figure out what works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 I do a lot of "cut and try" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Belshaw Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 More thoughts on the battery placement. The original idea I had of accessing through the cockpit floor is not going to be practical, it would necessitate removing the wings to gain access which means taking off four struts, disconnecting servo leads and then unscrewing the cockpit floor. Far too much faff so I'm looking at alternative options: Option 1 The original design powered by IC utilises Peter's "patented" slot screw cowl removal method, ease the cowl slightly upward, pull forward and "et voila" off it comes. I could stick with this and move the battery forward through F1, making a snug fitting box behind FI and extending the floor of the box through F1 to give me a projecting tongue to strap the battery down to: I would need to cut out access through F1: Option 2 This idea was mentioned earlier in the thread, put the battery vertical up against F1. This would mean dispensing with the removable cowl and cutting a hatch between F1 and just in front of the windscreen but it would be a very tight fit: Option 3 A variation on option 2, angling the battery backwards to give a little more room for manoeuvre: The cowling, as drawn on the plan, is quite rounded so limiting the available space. I am modelling mine on G-BZLK which has a more angular nose and should give me a little more to play with. The flat front is also slotted which will help with the cooling: Option 1 would require removing the prop for a battery change, option 2 would be a simpler swap but the space available looks very tight. Option 3 is a simple swap and has no problem with space but does it get the battery far enough forward? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 How about sloping the battery from the top of F-1 down towards the bottom of F-2. It can rest on a sloping plate which could have Velcro on it to match a patch of Velcro on the battery. In the event of a nasty the battery could just slide forward over the top of F-1. That has been proved in practice many years ago 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 Cut a hole in F1 like this. Gives space and top hatch which is a bonus. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.