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VMC Balsa Basics Spitfire build


MattyB
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After taking the plunge a few weeks ago (see this thread) I'm hoping to start my build tonight. The kit looks absolutely excellent - everything is beautifully presented, and the laser cutting seems bang on. Time to get going!

 

I'll be using this build video alongside the instructions (which appear to be the only slight weak point - it has no pictures, and there is no plan either because all parts are laser marked and self jigging:

 

 

...but doing some of the mods from this version where he sheeted the LE and foreward fuselage for strength and a slightly more scale look:

 

 

I won't be clipping the wings like that one though, or going for bright orange! Covering will be Eze-doped Polyspan (polyester tissue) and paint, but I've not decided on the final scheme yet - watch this space.

 

It's very nicely packaged...

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I went for the matched pack of electronics for ease of installation.

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The instructions look well written, but I suspect I might be wishing for the odd photo...

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Various sundires including a nicely moulded canopy.

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A big bag of laser cut goodness... ?

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Edited by MattyB
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One quick addition before I start the build this evening... On opening the package I found the wrong motor had been supplied (I'd ordered the slightly higher performance Sport motor, but the Std had been sent). I sent them a quick email, and within 15 mins I was called by them to apologise annd tell me a replacement would be in the post within the hour at no charge! That's great service, so good in fact that I decided to pay for the replacement motor - I have a project that the std one will probably work for, and if not it just provides a nice excuse to buy the Cub at a later date... ?

 

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One day later than planned, but I did finally get started on the fuselage today. After a very enjoyable 70 mins or so I have this - not much more to say really, the laser cutting is excellent and the resulting ply fuse box is die straight.

 

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The trickiest bit is holding it all together “dry” - I started by using clamps, but masking tape proved to be a better solution. Just be careful not to put it too near a joint or it will wick up the CA. It’s all a bit wobbly until the second fuselage side goes on…

 

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My only other issue was remembering where I’d already gone with the cyano! ? Can’t really criticise VMC for that though…

 

 

Edited by MattyB
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On 24/03/2022 at 18:55, GrumpyGnome said:

Great company to deal with.

 

The presentation looks very like their tiny Tiger Moth - I found the booklet and plan were just fine for that, using YouTube was a last resort, but never needed!

 


There is no plan for this one, just the booklet, so whilst I could probably have worked it out from the written description YouTube made it a lot quicker and easier. You just need to be careful no CA gets on your iPad/phone/laptop!

 

Edited by MattyB
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21 minutes ago, MattyB said:


There is no plan for this one, just the booklet, so whilst I could probably have worked it out from the written description YouTube made it a lot quicker and easier. You just need to be careful no CA gets on your iPad/phone/laptop!

 

I hope you are not speaking from experience Matty,

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A few more photos of progress. All fairly straightforward; my only change vs the instructions was the use of aliphatic on the balsa sides in a few places. I did this as a) I thought it might make the final surface prep prior to covering slightly easier, and b) I had already stuck my fingers to both the model and the CA bottle in this session, and couldn't be bothered to do it again...!

 

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Next up - rear stringers followed by turtle decks upfront (which will be a mod, I just want that forward fuselage to look a bit smoother and more scale like).

Edited by MattyB
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23 minutes ago, Graham Foster said:

How did you get on with the battery hatch. Mine is too long to fit, will need major mods


That is next up after the stringers and turtle decks, I’ll tell you once it’s done - thanks for the tip off!

 

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On 31/03/2022 at 10:47, MattyB said:

A few more photos of progress. All fairly straightforward; my only change vs the instructions was the use of aliphatic on the balsa sides in a few places. I did this as a) I thought it might make the final surface prep prior to covering slightly easier, and b) I had already stuck my fingers to both the model and the CA bottle in this session, and couldn't be bothered to do it again...!

 

D91311D5-A752-4425-AFA5-12737BA9350B.jpeg

 

6759DEB0-1D3C-4193-ADAE-0E234CE4F986.jpeg

 

Next up - rear stringers followed by turtle decks upfront (which will be a mod, I just want that forward fuselage to look a bit smoother and more scale like).

Hmm I have a nice little OS 10, might this be a workable IC conversion?

 

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Hi Matty.

Just an observation. The cative nuts on the back of the fire wall look like they should be knocked in further. The prongs on the back should be fully embedded into the wood. They would be difficult to refit if they fall out when the fuselage is complete. I also add a drop or two of thin cyno to secure.

 

Best Regards

Dave

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3 hours ago, Dave Garrett 1 said:

Hi Matty.

Just an observation. The cative nuts on the back of the fire wall look like they should be knocked in further. The prongs on the back should be fully embedded into the wood. They would be difficult to refit if they fall out when the fuselage is complete. I also add a drop or two of thin cyno to secure.

 

Best Regards

Dave

 

Yes, you are right they are not in that far, my concern was that the ply there is quite thin and I was worried if tapped fully home thy might come through to the other side, weakening the firewall. Tightening the mount to the other side will be done before I sheet that area in, and I will add some cyano to the back at that point - good tip.

 

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3 hours ago, EGB 953 said:

Hmm I have a nice little OS 10, might this be a workable IC conversion?

 

 

I don't really do IC so am no expert, but suspect you would be better choosing a kit designed for IC - the front end would need quite a lot of mods to accomodate the engine and fuel lines. I suspect it would be easier to just start with a Cambrian kit if glow is your power choice. Also a 10 might be a bit marginal on power, a 15 (with around ~300W) is probably a better match.

 

Edited by MattyB
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On 05/04/2022 at 10:35, Dave Garrett 1 said:

Hi Matty.

Just an observation. The cative nuts on the back of the fire wall look like they should be knocked in further. The prongs on the back should be fully embedded into the wood. They would be difficult to refit if they fall out when the fuselage is complete. I also add a drop or two of thin cyno to secure.

 

Best Regards

Dave

 

Looked at this again last night. It was a good catch by @Dave Garrett 1 and might have been tricky to fix later once turtle decks were on. Screwing the mount on I carefully tightened all four bolts evenly, and was able to draw in the captive nuts sufficiently (along with som accompanying scruncking sounds...!). I then added a smidgeon of CA to complete the job. Final result looks fine, but would have been easier to do before I had assembled the fuselage - I'm showing the rustiness in my building skills a bit there!

 

Next up I'm changing plan and doing the battery hatch as (reading ahead in the instructions) it's clear fitting the magnets will be easier before the turtle decks are not in place. Hopefully should get that and the majority of the fuselage finished tonight so I can move onto tail feathers or wings.

Edited by MattyB
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