Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 I borrowed a Lidl one from a friend, a complete waste of time I would also like one that works,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Christy Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 I keep a Kilner Jar of "red" diesel in the garage. If I get an engine that is seized solid with old oil, I leave it soaking in that for a few days (remove the glow-plug and back-plate). That usually gets it to turn over. "Contaminated" diesel from a friendly garage (drained from diesel cars that have been filled with petrol) works even better and is usually cheaper! This will usually also soften a lot of the gunk on the exterior of the engine. However you do it, you will end up having to use a fair bit of elbow grease...! -- Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 On 31/03/2022 at 11:38, Paul De Tourtoulon said: Life is to short to clean planes and engines, as long as they don't dirty my car,,,,? So I’ve owned my current car for 10 years, built in 2008. Properly serviced, fit for purpose, not (often for many thousands of kliks) thrashed. Last autumn, SHMBO was complaining, it’s encrusting her clothes. I don’t clean cars, period. So she went to a valeter/detailer. He said he knew the car, we are near neighbours, unknown to us. He recognized the algae deposits. She promised to be better in future. But, a plane motor. It runs, a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 Some fuel residue, non castor based fuels, when baked on, is very difficult to remove. It's as if it has a clear "glaze"... For castor based fuels I find petrol will shift it. Get a large necked jar, like a gerkin jar, and place the engine in that for a day or two. Agitate the jar by shaking from time to time. You will see the " crap" collect at the bottom of the jar. It can be filtered and reused till "spent". Interestingly someone posted about petrol contaminated diesel..... Obviously don't use petrol indoors or in a sonic cleaner, it's highly flamable and a very real fire risk, SO BE WARNED !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 This is the one I bought back in early 2021 to replace an even older one, £38.99 Now a whopping £70.19 ? Cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) Try here, not that I use one as Laser engines don’t need cleaning ? Edited April 28, 2022 by Ron Gray 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 17 minutes ago, Ron Gray said: Try here, not that I use one as Laser engines don’t need cleaning ? Thanks, anyone using one of these ?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 Like I said, I'm not but a friend uses one of the larger ones for cleaning carbs on lawn mowers and says that it is very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ovenden Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) My experience with an ultrasonic cleaner using just water was disappointing. Nothing like Frank's engine experience. Soaking engine in old/stale glow fuel and scrubbing with a toothbrush helps. Cooking the parts in a slow cooker filled with anti-freeze liquid (outside in a well-ventilated garage with door open) got loads of baked on muck off. The engine was really very clean and almost like new afterwards. Edited April 28, 2022 by David Ovenden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC57 Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) Warm ethylene glycol antifreeze is good for cleaning castor oil stains off engines and exhausts. I read it somewhere (maybe on this esteemed forum, previous post excepted), tried it, and found it works a treat with a bit of scrubbing with an old toothbrush, where no other solvent or cleaning fluid would. I’ve got several engines sparkling again with this method now, but you do have to be careful, as ethylene glycol is flammable and gives off toxic fumes when heated, so do it outside. Edited April 28, 2022 by EvilC57 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 This may help someone!Engine cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Boiling in ethylene glycol antifreeze worked extremely well for me - however it also removed most of the red on both my Irvine 53's leaving a very un manly pink tinge ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 On 28/04/2022 at 07:16, Ron Gray said: Try here, not that I use one as Laser engines don’t need cleaning ? Andy also did a members old Laser 75 that had loads of baked on castor, looks like it just came out of the factory now.I'll ask him what cleaner fluid he uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Stock 2 Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 Hi folks just needed to post my question which is relevant here. I’ve tried all sorts of household cleaning products, rubbing alcohol, a particular penetrating form of wd40, hell, even drain unblocker as a mad last resort. Bought an ultrasonic cleaner and repeated the above and concoctions in it but to absolutely no avail. I’m trying to clean or dissolve really the caked on tar like substance which I believe to be burnt castor oil(?) off my Saito silencer. can anyone help guide me? tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ovenden Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 Try "cooking" it in a slow cooker filled with car antifreeze. Should be outside or in a garage with door open because of fumes. Then will need a scub to remove baked-on oil. May help to work on stubborn areas with a piece of wood or plastic to help remove really burnt-on oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 After some softening up in some old glow fuel, I found when it comes to well cooked heads/exhausts a stainless steel [ its quite soft] rotary brush in a Dremel tool works well. Before and after pics of old Irvine 46 head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extra slim Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 Try biological washing powder in hot just off boiling water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Stock 2 Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 Thanks for the tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC57 Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 (edited) 12 hours ago, David Ovenden said: Try "cooking" it in a slow cooker filled with car antifreeze. Should be outside or in a garage with door open because of fumes. Then will need a scub to remove baked-on oil. May help to work on stubborn areas with a piece of wood or plastic to help remove really burnt-on oil. Yep, I can confirm the hot ethylene glycol antifreeze method works at treat. Like the OP, I tried all sorts of things to remove burnt on castor stains, then stumbled across the antifreeze method (read it somewhere online I think). But as David says, do it outside. And I found that an old toothbrush is ideal for gently scrubbing between the cylinder head fins to remove more stubborn deposits once the engine has been ‘cooked’ for a while in the antifreeze. Edited December 14, 2022 by EvilC57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 This thread got me interested in buying an ultrasonic cleaner. What size tank is recommended for jobs associated with engines say up to 20cc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 I used the antifreeze method on some well used engines but I think I had the crockpot turned up too high as the castings started to take on a dark grey appearance. The fumes that comes off hot antifreeze are most noxious So I used a carbon filter spray mask to approach it and I did it outdoors. Be warned glycol antifreeze is quite poisonous and any spills must be cleaned up immediately as pets can be attracted to the smell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extra slim Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Yep, I used the antifreeze, but it oxidised the aluminum, so take it easy, or else your silencer will end up clean, but dull. I try the Biological washing powder method first, perhaps a few times, and a still bristle tooth brush.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Boiling in Glycol also worked for me but as others have stressed the fumes are poisonous. A few years ago someone sold fake vodka containing glycol and killed 10's of people. Fairy power spray worked but left the Aluminum black - not a good result 😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 I use an ultrasonic cleaner (UC) with non caustic truck wash (TFR) . The caustic variety can turn casings black or dark grey depending on alloy used.Turn temp up or fill UC with hot solution approx 50/50 water/TFR . Works very well. If metal casings have any scratches etc then I wash parts in thinners first and bead blast them . This brings them up like new but the glass beads get into small crevasses etc even when plugged before blasting and the UC bath removes them leaving parts perfectly clean and ready for re - assembly. For some parts that need solvent rather than water cleaning I put them in a jar cover with solvent fit the screw lid then put that into the UC with plain water in it and no heat. Anyone trying this beware NOT to use solvents directly in the UC bath and only use solvents out door or in a safe place should they ignite Any polished areas like heads etc are mounted in the lathe and spun up using a green pad to get a near original finish before the UC bath. The most annoying part of refurbish these parts is machining out the plier marks that some bodgers use to hold the prop drivers ? Why ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 (edited) 18 hours ago, Nick Stock 2 said: Hi folks just needed to post my question which is relevant here. I’ve tried all sorts of household cleaning products, rubbing alcohol, a particular penetrating form of wd40, hell, even drain unblocker as a mad last resort. Bought an ultrasonic cleaner and repeated the above and concoctions in it but to absolutely no avail. I’m trying to clean or dissolve really the caked on tar like substance which I believe to be burnt castor oil(?) off my Saito silencer. can anyone help guide me? tx The only way to remove castor when it's burnt on hard like that is in my experience to bead blast it using fine beads. After that avoid castor oil based fuel like the plague. Good synthetic oil keeps an engines clean outside as well as inside. Any other mechanical method like a wire wheel will destroy the finish and harsher chemicals may darken the alloy. Re my previous post . I meant to use US and not UC for ultrasonic cleaner . Duh! Must have had a senior moment 🤦 Edited December 14, 2022 by Engine Doctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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