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Lipo State


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On 13/04/2022 at 07:11, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

I like Leccyflyer's best so simple, a bit if red tubing no need for the green.

 

Now where in all y rubbish is that old red sullivan tubing,,,,?

The red Sullivan snake outer is a wee bit too small to fit on a 4mm male bullet pin, the blue is the perfect size. I do need to get hold of some more blue snake outers to make additional doobers- they have a tendency to go walkabout and end up in the same hiding place as guitar plectrums. ?

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I don't use any markers to denote pack condition at the field.

 

On arrival at the field I lay out all my packs for flying on a picnic blanket in front of my flight box.

 

Once a pack has been used it goes into a pile to the right of the flight box.

 

At the end of the day, used packs to the right of the flight box, unused to the left.

 

Used packs charged first, unused checked and topped up if necessary after using a checker.

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I have used 4mm gold connectors on my batteries ever since NiCd/NiMh flight packs were the norm, and all that time I have used a very simple system using round and square section wooden plugs drilled with a blind 4mm hole, and one or other of these is fitted to the negative (male) connector.  Round for freshly charged, square for discharged.  Being wooden plugs they also form an insulation so that they eliminate any chance of the leads shorting out in transport or storage.  So I always keep a handful of square ones in my pocket, and after every flight I fit a square block as soon as I disarm the model, and when I recharge the pack back home I change this for a round one.  Very simple and effective.  I know some folk who use red/green fuel piping in a similar way.

Battery Safety Plugs VLR.jpg

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4 hours ago, Andy Stephenson said:

I used to do like Leccy but the risk of short is still there so XT60s and 90s for everything now.

Very little chance of a short if you are careful with the lead length and arrange it so that the positive male pin can never come into contact with even the edge of the negative female socket. Since I fit a doober on that positive pin, until connecting up in the model, there's close to no chance of a short, even if the pack is on a metal bench. A wee wrap of tape around the leads removes any chance of connecting the pack to itself.

 

I did try an ill-fated foray into Deans connecters years ago, but these connectors come and go with such regularity, that I settled on JST plugs for my tiny lipos and 4mm on everything else, simple, easy to solder, zero bulk, easy to make up parallel packs with minimal fuss. Those are the reasons I continue to use them. For a couple of recently acquired models and large capacity packs which use 8AWG wire, I've got some of those much chunkier connectors, but I don't like them.

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1 hour ago, Romeo Whisky said:

I have used 4mm gold connectors on my batteries ever since NiCd/NiMh flight packs were the norm, and all that time I have used a very simple system using round and square section wooden plugs drilled with a blind 4mm hole, and one or other of these is fitted to the negative (male) connector.  Round for freshly charged, square for discharged.  Being wooden plugs they also form an insulation so that they eliminate any chance of the leads shorting out in transport or storage.  So I always keep a handful of square ones in my pocket, and after every flight I fit a square block as soon as I disarm the model, and when I recharge the pack back home I change this for a round one.  Very simple and effective.  I know some folk who use red/green fuel piping in a similar way.

Battery Safety Plugs VLR.jpg

I used 4mm connectors till I was talking and plugged the two battery ones together, Psccc, FIRE !

 

 So how do you drill the hole if you are blind ?, and again fly,,,

 

 Ps plenty of blue Sullivans,,,

Edited by Paul De Tourtoulon
ps
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