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Blackhorse new Lysander kit


Peter Robinson 9
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Thank you

Hi folks did some more work on the lysander concentrating on the fin and tailplane fitting the F/G control horns first job was to drill some gluing holes to stop them from pulling out. managed to find the slots in the tail and in the rudder cleaned them up ready for gluing and masking. Also at this time used the robart type hinges supplied to hinge all the tail and rudder no problems with these.

 

 

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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Hi, 

Next job is to work on the pushrods and control links for the elevator and rudder (all 3mm pushrods)  I temporarily placed the rudder and tail plane into position in the fus (not glued) so I could sort out the length of the pushrods. I cut out the covering for the tail plane and found the 2 exit holes for the elevator pushrods and single rudder pushrod, I tidied them up with some CA pushing the covering back into the cut out. The pushrods were slightly to long so I trimmed them back and had to turn the two elevator servos around 180 degrees to make everything work. The rudder pushrod came out in the wrong place I cured it with putting in a z bend to increase its height.

 

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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Hi did some more work last night. Started on the undercarriage, First job was to re-enforce the u/c wheel plate with some carbon just to give it some extra strength, the mouldings are epoxy glass with a small plywood insert glued to were the bolt goes through. I replaced the kit wheels with some inflatable wheels I thought the ones in the kit were too hard and solid. The aluminium u/c was a bit awkward trying to put the bolt in with the wheel at the same time passing through the spat but managed it ok. I fitted the U/C to the fus no problems there a bit tight to get the cap head bolts in but ok. Then got the parts for the struts fixings on the u/c, dremeled out the wheel spats mouldings for the fixing points and found out the u/c was on the wrong way for the bolt holes to line up, so had to strip down the spats and reverse the aluminium.

 

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Hi Ernie I will check it out. Did some more work on the lysander sorting out the wing cabane/struts. All nicely packaged, first job was to epoxy the parts into the aluminium struts making sure you have a left and right hand versions.922337885_image0(12).thumb.jpeg.75bc684f49d94bb74b8699bcd7eb5cf1.jpeg

 

All the items went together with no problems using screws and epoxy. I did change the bolts to cap head just to make life easier rather than supplied Philips screws

 

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fjyh

Once assembled I tried them on the aircraft and it was obvious there was not enough angle or spread of the struts so carefully sanded the fixture for a more obtuse angle.

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In the instructions it specifies a distance from the root outwards along the wing and a distance in from the edge of the wing to find a 3mm hole that was no problem. Then a measurement from that hole of 200mm to the leading edge that was difficult to find. The only way was to run your finger pressing hard on the covering to feel for the ident but managed in the end to find it. Also the brackets that go into the wing have two holes you only need to use one I spent ages trying to find the second hole but not necessary as the bracket needs to swivel for alignment.

 

 

 

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I changed the fixing point from the ccklip supplied to a 4mm nylok and bolt, thought it would be easier with a nut runner and allen key rather than messing about with pliers trying to get the clip in to the tiny hole

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, finally got all the servo wires sorted underneath the tray all nice and tidy just need to sort out and tidy up power cables to the Rx. Fitted the electronic switch for the lighting in the wingtips and eventually after test flying some wheel spats landing lights to be installed. Fitted the life 700Mah battery for the lights on the servo tray and connected up all working great. Noticed the guide tubes for the elevator, rudder and rear steerable are loose in the formers so applied some more glue stop them moving. Looked at battery placement under the cowl they all fit so that's good news that includes a LIfe battery for ignition, starter lipo battery and Ni-cad battery for the Rx hopefully will not need any weight or it might be to much we will have to see when I check cg. Next job will be fitting rear canopy with cut-outs for the wing halves.

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Hi,  made up a power cable last night using MPX connector for the 3000 nimh receiver battery from underneath the cowl to the inside the fus and used a MPX mould to tidy up the wiring (before and after shot). To save confusion when charging I use MPX for Nimh, XT60 for lipo's and Xt30 for Life batteries.

 

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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