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  • 2 months later...

Hi Stuart

Couple of thoughts for you.

On the 4Max website (www.4-max.co.uk) you will find suggested set-ups for various models. Go through the list and find a model as close as possible to yours.

2 on the list look close.

Mick Reeves Gangster 63 Lite or PB models Bullet. On the page there will be a list of suggested components for each.

Bear in mind these are only suggestions. Granted George at 4Max has a lot of experience in these, so probably better than guesswork.

Otherwise, find out what prop a 55AX would use at what rpm, and use something like Electricalc to design a system that produces the same results.

Bear in mind that an electric power system will generally use a bigger prop turning slower, so any results from Electricalc would be guidelines only. Some time ago I bought a DSM Smart Move, very similar to the Joker, which I was thinking of going electric.

Did some experimental set ups on Electricalc, and found a few that would do. Project went no further than that, but I have the details still on file.

Yours if they're any help to you.

Jeff

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Thanks Jeff,

 

The Joker 40 is a deceptive name having a wingspan of 59" (if I don't mess with it).  Looking at the 4-Max site it's more the Sebring Katana in size and weight albeit the wings are foam and not built up.  So it looks like an expensive 5S set up is required. 

 

Puzzling, the Moonglow is also similar in size and weight but the specs for that are very very different. 

 

Beginning to make the OS 55AX on a pipe more attractive, just not at some of the clubs I go to. 

 

I can't find "Electricalc"  but maybe that would help?

 

S

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Hi Stuart, still a bit of a black art, isn't it?

I think the 40 in Joker 40 refers to the engine size rather than the model size.
Looked at the Sebart Katana (couldn't find Sebring) but that looks more like a 3d model than an aerobatic. Big, fine pitch prop gives it away.
Must admit I wouldn't use 5s anyway. Difficult to find a use for it on any other model.
Oddly enough I did have a 5s set up for my Smart Move, but that needed a 16 x 8 prop, which was far too big for the model.
Also looked at the Moonglow.
Aerobatic model, but designed in 1968, for low powered 61 size engines, which were all that were available back then.
Better bet to stick with the Bullet or Gangster.
Here's the address for Electricalc:
https://www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php
You have to register to use it, but it's free after that.
Don't forget I still have the set ups for my Smart Move. Project stalled, so I never got to use them in practice, but the one I would have chosen uses a 4s pack with an 800Kv motor and 12 x 6 prop.
Pretty much in keeping with the style of model.

hope this helps

Jeff

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Stuart,

 

A 6-S setup will cost more upfront but I suspect it will be far more flexible in the future as there are lots of F3A mid-size designs out there which run on it.   I have a Pichler Supra-Fly, a Curare and a foam Olympus all running on the same 6S LiPos, as does a Truggy-thing for when the weather is too poor to fly.   I agree with Jeff, 5S may be difficult to re-use.   I haven't priced 5S LiPos but I bet the extra cost for 6S is marginal, especially in good quality ones, e.g. Optipower.

 

BTC

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Jeff, Bruce,

 

Words of wisdom I think. Yes a 5S setup is expensive but the 6S not much more.  Having looked at the Bullet and the Moonglow they both use 4S setups.  I'll try that and 

if it lacks the necessary, I'll upgrade to  6S setup.  The cowl will accommodate both as far as I can see.  

 

Thanks to you both for the advice.  

 

A black art indeed!  

 

S

Jeff - Thanks for the link!

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Hi Guys

Bruce
Agree with all you say. Although I only use 6s on my helicopters, it's a viable option for Stuart. Only snag I can see is finding the right Kv and prop size.
Could you let me know what you use on yours?

Stuart
Sorry, black art time.
Your idea of upgrading to 6s if necessary sounds good in theory, but won't work in practice. For a 4s pack and a useful prop size (12 x 6), a motor Kv around the 800 area would be needed.
However if you then decide on 6s with the same motor you would need to drop the prop size drastically
(10 x 5 max) to keep the current draw within limits. 10 x 5 would be far too small for your model.
Other than that to go 6s you would need to fit a different motor with lower Kv (400 or so) which would mean a physically bigger motor, running very inefficiently.
Decision on cell count needs to be made first.

My thoughts anyway, would welcome Bruce's input.

Jeff

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Thanks Jeff

 

I was thinking along the latter lines of swapping the motor along with the battery.  Having looked at the motor sizes on 4-Max it will not be straight forward as I thought so it might be a case of going for the 4S and if it's lacking, well that's that.  I would welcome Bruce's thoughts though as it looks like it's one or the other with no switch option if the 4S is not up to the job. 

 

There was me thinking electric would be simple and clean.  Think I'd rather get oily.  All seems so simple with IC! 

 

S

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11 minutes ago, Stuart Z said:

Thanks Jeff

 

  so it might be a case of going for the 4S and if it's lacking, well that's that.

 

 

Not so, Stuart

If you go with the 4s 800 Kv combination you could play with prop sizes if the 12 x 6 doesn't float your boat. Electricalc says you could go up to at least 13 x 7 before the magic smoke starts coming out.

Certainly a lot cheaper than switching motor and battery, plus you could get a selection of props and change at the field.

Jeff

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Thanks Jeff

 

That sounds fair enough then.  I’ll look to the 4S then.   At the moment I’m still battling with the kit.  Probably the biggest challenge I’ve built so far with parts that look like they were designed for the 60 size and parts that need a lot of fettling.  At the moment working on a tail plane that is 10mm thick to go into a 6mm slot.  Aileron stock was actually TE stock.  Hey ho, reminds me of the “good old days”.  
 

Bit of a shock for anyone used to 21st century ARTF!
Thanks for all your help!

 

S

 

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Probably a wise move - the Irvine motor is generally quite powerful for it’s size.  I had a full size Joker (70”) with an Irvine 61 and a mini pipe.  Was good and in the vertical !

 

The Joker 40 is having it’s 30th anniversary this year, I paid the princely sum of £47.95 for it. 
 

S


 

 

 

 

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This is currently hung-up in the shed.

Last flown about 1994.

nobody.thumb.jpeg.d391eef370f54f5fbabb68d61cbfa4d1.jpeg

 

Came as a kit with foam decks front and rear. Foam wings of course.  Moulded cockpit and plastic cowl.

There was no plan just good instructions which are signed by Dave Kerswell ?

Mine has an SC62 for power with a standard silencer. Needs a bit of lead at the tail for balance.

Instructions suggest .91 four strokes, .46 two stroke piped or standard .61...

Flew it with my FF7, which I also still have.

Trying to pluck up enough courage to give it a blast but need to swap out a couple of servos and the power switch for reliability and safety reasons.

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