Jump to content

Nijhuis Lancaster 1/9 scale


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

The wing is off the board and trial fitting of the nacelles. Also I raided the piggy bank ( again! And show signs of severe malnutrition) and bought a Unilight controller for the navigation, landing and rear marker  lights. I have so say...they are very bright indeed  😎 😎

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by cymaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


Posted (edited)

More work done with the lighting. I won’t bore you all with the story of who I reached this stage. It was a case of several failed versions and a lot of head scratching.

First job was to get it all roughed out on card.

683268B5-25CA-4213-8D31-07B1CFF200E9.jpeg

 

And finally.....

9F888872-BD8E-4981-984E-A0F0239F55CC.jpeg

8DF57410-B662-4D83-8CF5-5F0B791B3A8E.jpeg

 

Here it is at work, the light will come on.....promise

 

 

Edited by cymaz
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, stu knowles said:

I think that that's a great job although perhaps I would have used a 9 gramme servo rather than a standard.

I don’t think I’ve a good 9g servo. The next job is to make the two new  brass arms using the ply as a template. I’ve ordered some Paxolin which will be the final piece of the puzzle 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMO don't forget you are effectively applying air brakes, ok if you deploy at landing approach speed but anything faster and certainly at high air speeds where will be quite a opposition force.

 

PS if you are unfortunate and burn one servo out with it fully deployed and retract the other light things might get quite exciting. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you arrange the o/p arm to be in line with the servo body there will be zero force on it when the lights are deployed. I always set up flaps like that, having learned by burning out four retract servos on the bomb doors on my version of the model.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might experiment with the springs, good idea

The pivot is silver soldered now and I’m pleased. The arms are straight and parallel and they fit nicely together with the light heat sink. JB weld will keep it altogether, or m2 bolts …not decided yet 

 

IMG_0267.jpeg

IMG_0266.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Beginning of the wire runs. To help the pull throughs, I’ve used some 1 ltr drinks bottles, cutting the bottom and neck off. Rolling these up tight they slip into the rib holes. Once released the plastic springs tight into the holes. A dab of hole glue keeps everything in place. 
 

IMG_0020.jpeg
 

Different types of string will aid the installation 

IMG_0021.jpeg

Edited by cymaz
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, cymaz said:

Beginning of the wire runs. To help the pull throughs, I’ve used some 1 ltr drinks bottles, cutting the bottom and neck off. Rolling these up tight they slip into the rib holes. Once released the plastic springs tight into the holes. A dab of hole glue keeps everything in place. 
 

IMG_0020.jpeg
 

Different types of string will aid the installation 

IMG_0021.jpeg

What a brilliant idea 10 out of 10 for that. Bas

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Another job  I forgot to mention was I’ve just put a Cortex gyro in my old Seagull Dual Ace. The DA was a test bed for the Lancaster engines. It’s now another job to do, to test the viability of the gyro on a multi-engine model.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gap at the front of the lights is to let it come over the pocket edge.

I’ve spent a hour or so making a couple of jigs for the flat hinges. The angle is about 45’ which seems to allow plenty of movement on the mock up…

 

IMG_0080.jpeg

IMG_0081.jpeg

IMG_0082.jpeg

IMG_0084.jpeg

IMG_0085.jpeg

IMG_0087.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not as yet quite sure what you are up to from those pics but I expect that it will become clear later. Do remember that TN models are not generally as light as they could be, especially the laser cut ones, so I would be careful with the details you are adding.

Otherwise, your build looks very impressive. Mine took 5 years on and off it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...