Quicker building using cyno

[r6dan]

Since my last phase 6 was left at the exes I'm going to build another, not the beautiful clear glass job like last one but a quick build and covered ( the same look as the original Chris Foss one).  I'm a joiner and use cyno and accelerant daily at work and its very strong and not brittle as people think... so has anyone built all "wood" parts of any build just with cyan to good affect?

What say ye all?

[Allan Bennett]

I use cyano a lot in my builds, and have never had it cause a problem.  For electric models I don't think there's much need for anything else, though I do tend to use epoxy or white PVA if I'm gluing large surfaces where the cyano might not wick all the way to the centre, or where I want to be able to slide things around to get the best fit.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

I don't use much as it is so toxic even with a mask,,,

[Mike T]

IIRC I used cyano on pretty much all joins on my P6, except the fus. joint and doublers, where I used 1 hour epoxy, and for the LE, TE and wing tips where I used titebond.

 

It IS nasty stuff though and I occasionally get a reaction.  Plenty of ventilation is essential and I usually use it in short sessions.

[John Lee]

It's fine except it will attack the foam wing cores, so an alternative needed in those areas.

[Brian Cooper]

I use cyano extensively.  There are no problems with adhesion, and it certainly speeds up the building process. 

 

For joints which aren't cut 100% perfect, I press balsa sawdust into the gap and then whack it with cyano. 

 

To evade fumes, use "Foam friendly" (or odourless). 

 

Be aware that cyano has a non-specified lifespan. . . When it starts to slow down, bin it.

Not only does it take longer to go off, but it also loses its adhesive qualities. 

[leccyflyer]

I used to use CA quite regularly when I came back to the hobby in the early 90's, but within several years started to experience a reaction- the usual streaming eyes and nose, breathlessness and difficulty in breathing. So I stopped using it entirely for a time. Then I started using odourless, foam safe CA - either ZaP-O or Rocket foam safe, which I do now use sparingly. Note though that ZAP-O in particular tends to go off quite quickly once it's open. I've thrown away a lot of bottles of that quite expensive CA which have set solid in the bottle over a period of months.

 

On the very rare occasions where only conventional thin CA will do the job, I'll wear a mask, hit the work with the CA and immediately leave the room.

[David Hazell 1]

Try Super Phatic. It gives you a bit more wiggle time, still goes off quick and wicks beautifully.

 

[Nigel R]

Use the extra thin stuff for 90% of building. Never had a problem with joint strength.

 

As noted by Brian, sawdust or a tiny wedge work wonders for any non perfect joints.

 

[r6dan]

Ok so here’s the progress, epoxied the wing together, put leading and trailing edges on with pva, glued up the fuz with cyno, it’s straight and square too!

[Don Fry]

4 hours ago, David Hazell 1 said:

Try Super Phatic. It gives you a bit more wiggle time, still goes off quick and wicks beautifully.

 

I use Super Phatic a lot. It allows time to put the joint where wanted. Then hold in place, very light tacking wick of thin Cyno, hold for a few seconds, and no pin, clamp needed, onto next joint.

[leccyflyer]

Yep - I also use Super Phatic in lieu of CA for wood joints, but I tend to used pins, clamps of weights to hold it in place until it's set. Havent used it in conjunction with CA to held the joints in place.

[Engine Doctor]

Cyano thin ,medium or thick for all wood to wood. Epoxy for wing joining of foam wings and Deluxe Materials foam to foam or ordinary cyano on polyprpelyne foam . Also use foaming Gorilla glue for some joints that are not as tight as they should be . PVA gets used usually at end of day when glued items can be left overnight to cure.

We all have our preferences.

Have you thought about using laminating film for covering ? It can look either perfectly clear si milar to glass  or like doped tissue if you use the matt type. It's also very strong and applied just like normal film but using higher heat. 

[r6dan]

Ok so here’s the progress, epoxied the wing together, put leading and trailing edges on with pva, glued up the fuz with cyno, it’s straight and square too!

[Don Fry]

Always a bit of stress until the checks are made, when the joint is set and it’s too late. 

[Engine Doctor]

Is the veneer on your wings OK?  Made a few C Foss kits for frieinds and the later ones had very poor split veneer . I used foaming gorilla glue sqeezed into split , covered with cling film and weighted down overnight. When cured excess is easily sanded of and leaves an slmost invisible repair. Hopefully quality has improved?

[David Davis]

The man who taught me to build model aeroplanes was my Uncle Geoff. He died young of cancer and just before he died he gave me all of his models including a double size Vic Smeed Tomboy fuselage. Being a draughtsman it was easy for him to draw up a set of plans. Thirty years later I built the rest of the model and installed a 3.5cc diesel engine into it which only just flew it. Changing the diesel for a Merco 35 produced a more satisfactory performance. Picture below of the model and my much younger self taken in North Devon over thirty years ago.

 

Unfortunately the fuselage was about forty years old at the time, perhaps the quality of balsa wood in the 1950s was poor, whatever the reason the fuselage started to deform so I built a second one using cyano throughout. I was very inexperienced at the time and somehow or other I managed to get the model into a spiral dive and when it hit the ground I was left with a big yellow bag of kindling!  I have always used PVA or aliphatic glues when building fuselages since then.

 

That said, when building my Big Guff's wing and tailplane I used cyano extensively. The structure of both is "egg box" so it was simply a matter of lining everything up and running the glue down the joints.

 

[r6dan]

On 17/07/2022 at 09:49, Engine Doctor said:

Is the veneer on your wings OK?  Made a few C Foss kits for frieinds and the later ones had very poor split veneer . I used foaming gorilla glue sqeezed into split , covered with cling film and weighted down overnight. When cured excess is easily sanded of and leaves an slmost invisible repair. Hopefully quality has improved?

Hi, to be honest no the quality isn’t as good as my last one, the wings were poorly veneered, the wing tip blocks are too thin and a few other niggles

[r6dan]

A coat of sanding sealer after final shaping, it toughens it up a touch whilst it’s on the bench, I was gonna cover it with Oracover etc but I think it’s come up enough for a light clear glass finish with chocolate brown and cream detail I think ! 

[Engine Doctor]

Looking good . 👍

[r6dan]

Glassing the fus with 4oz cloth and exw-kote. Having built literally hundreds of carbon and GRP yachts I was u sure if using it but it’s in my kitchen/living room so I wanted no mess or smell and the stuff goes on soooo well. None of this credit card scraping rubbish, use a roller and paint brush, and literally the bare minimum resin to wet the cloth.