The Big Question ?

[chris meek 1]

Richard I'd be interested in the tempest when it comes out. Sorry if I've missed it but what cost would it be? 

Thanks

Chris 

[RICHARD WILLS]

7 minutes ago, chris meek 1 said:

Richard I'd be interested in the tempest when it comes out. Sorry if I've missed it but what cost would it be? 

Thanks

Chris 

Hi Chris , we have decided to leave the Fw190 on this thread and move the Tempest to the 2024 Mass Build thread . It would get confusing once I start building the Tempest as people may confuse the two . 

The kit price for either model is £139    I will put you on the list . 

[Gordon McConnell]

Hi Richard,

 

Please put me down for a RED 13 decal set.

 

Gordon

[Graham Bowers]

On 25/11/2023 at 07:14, Ron Gray said:

B&Q do a red and yellow that, once ‘dirtied’ as per Richard’s advice, will look close enough. 

Thanks for that.

 

Just had a look on the B&Q website for reds and yellows and there are lots and lots of shades in emulsion.

 

Some are obviously a mile out, which narrows it down a bit. However if you had particular ones in mind, would you mind sharing the specifics please?

[RICHARD WILLS]

2 hours ago, Graham Bowers said:

Thanks for that.

 

Just had a look on the B&Q website for reds and yellows and there are lots and lots of shades in emulsion.

 

Some are obviously a mile out, which narrows it down a bit. However if you had particular ones in mind, would you mind sharing the specifics please?

Ok , Graham . 

                      In band Q they will mix you a nice size pot of valspar emulsion (Matt or silk )  I think in your case I'd go silk , but for general camo go matt . 

Take a print off with what you want . The yellow is definetely going to be US trainer yellow but they can match it pretty closely from a sample . The red should be more like pillar box red , so definitely not an element of orange . 

So ask them to mix a yellow , red and black . That way you can add a little black to the red to calm it down if it looks too much . 

I dont think you will have to though if you go with my plan of heavy charcoal staining . 

I tell you what , I will get a piece of yellow paper and weather it as a sample to send to you . 

[Graham Bowers]

54 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Ok , Graham . 

                      In band Q they will mix you a nice size pot of valspar emulsion (Matt or silk )  I think in your case I'd go silk , but for general camo go matt . 

Take a print off with what you want . The yellow is definetely going to be US trainer yellow but they can match it pretty closely from a sample . The red should be more like pillar box red , so definitely not an element of orange . 

So ask them to mix a yellow , red and black . That way you can add a little black to the red to calm it down if it looks too much . 

I dont think you will have to though if you go with my plan of heavy charcoal staining . 

I tell you what , I will get a piece of yellow paper and weather it as a sample to send to you . 

That'll be handy, thanks 🙂

There's an excellent independent DIY shop a couple of miles away that does mixing so I'll pay them a visit in the first instance.

[chris meek 1]

18 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Hi Chris , we have decided to leave the Fw190 on this thread and move the Tempest to the 2024 Mass Build thread . It would get confusing once I start building the Tempest as people may confuse the two . 

The kit price for either model is £139    I will put you on the list . 

Thanks much appreciated 👍

[andrew exton]

hobby flight u s airforce  insignia red spot on match

if that helps

 

[RICHARD WILLS]

A few more bits to do on the 190 . Because I am right handed , I have cut a long slot and a short one accordingly in the underside of the wing . I will probably line the bit I grip with wood . 

Note the holes are forward of the centre of gravity . That is because when you advance the throttle prior to launch , the model tries to pull its nose down as it rotates downward from your hand . Makes sense when you view it from the side , (think propulsion is like catherine wheel with your hand being the nail ) .

 

[RICHARD WILLS]

(I will paint it ....I promise ) 

The next thing is the pushrods to the rudder and elevator . (You may not bother with the rudder if you are only hand launching rather than dolly launch ) 

This time I'm going to use pushrods made of dowel . The actual size will be shown on the plan for you to copy , complete with little bends . 

The neat trick here is that we just cut a small groove ( I used a tenon saw ) for the wire to run in . The end of the wire is bent at 90 degrees and inserts into a 1.5mm hole drilled into the dowel , which effectively anchors it . Then using a piece of heat shrink tube means it cant budge . 

You will get all the bits in the kit . Makes for a friction free and positive action . 

The Z  bend is where the wire steps out of the little slots in the fuselage sides underneath the tailplane . 

 

[RICHARD WILLS]

The next thing is the aileron servos . I recommend that you get these working before fixing in place as their orientation has a 50/50 chance of you getting both ailerons going up at the same time !

Luckily there is plenty of scope to turn them round inside the servo box . 

I am using 9G metal geared emax servos throughout . Nothing fancy required so use what you have .

You can see that I wrap them in masking tape and then just hot glue them in place . Surprisingly you would need to be Silver Backed Gorilla to get them off . 

I will put some little screws in the lids to keep the lids on the model !  

[Nick Cripps]

50 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Note the holes are forward of the centre of gravity . That is because when you advance the throttle prior to launch , the model tries to pull its nose down as it rotates downward from your hand .

 

Good to see you've thought this through Richard. I've got some of the Ripmax ARTF versions of the Balsacraft warbirds and the finger-holds on these are rearward of the cg. It's an absolute pain trying to launch them when, as you say, opening the throttle causes the model to pitch downwards at just the wrong time. I've resorted to trying to stretch my little finger forward for support but a good launch is a bit of a lottery.

[Ron Gray]

I think I need to add another 2 FW190s to my order please Richard!