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Lancaster free plan

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Being a bit of a Lancaster fan I could not help looking at this although I already have far to many models, lots of which are yet to be flown because I now have great problems walking, carrying and seeing properly and need help to get my stuff across the field. The laser eye treatment I had 10 or so years ago has now failed and I face a 4 month wait to get small cataracts removed, so here we go again.


With the now silly cost and availability of many model building materials I wondered if I could build it purely from my scrap box.

I have stripped down my small quads because our landlord decided to ban them so have plenty of motors and props, forward and reverse. Now, being me, I rarely build as per plan and did not like the idea of a hand launched model with no u/c. luckily I have a spare pair of tiny retracts. One came with a broken micro switch but I was able to replace it. With all the associated extra wiring this was what you may term a tight squeeze and called for a built up wing. The section on the plan is as near as dammit the canard on Rutan aircraft so I drew up the ribs with Profili.



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Rich, yep.

The ribs are from 3/32nd and the skin 1/16th with a 3/16th spruce top spar and a partial bottom spar from 3/16th balsa.


MG, thanks for that. Am I correct in assuming that an electric version was not actually produced since the only reference to one is the suggested motors? There will be when I get it done and my eyes sorted out.

I have flown a TN 132", my own design 81" and the small HK version, all of which refused to turn with ailerons alone so this one is getting rudders using an external linkage: more complication.

Due to me making a model like this in such a small size I have found that there is much more work than first anticipated but it will give me something to do in the shed for a fair time thankfully.

I was going to cover it in HK polyester which I started to do the tail with then found two new sheets of Litespan in black which will be much better since it will go round the tight curves and readily take paint.

I checked the motors on 3s and 5x3 three bladers. They produce 80W each which will probably be far too much but I do not have any 2s left which are still any good.

I have 2x TGY 500 HV packs which will make up a 3s2p 1000 and will fit OK.

The other inner nacelle is the next to be treated but I am rapidly running out of soft 1/2 and 1/4 balsa.

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Hi Rich,

No need to publish a plan, the centre ribs are 45mm apart and the rest 1-8 are spaced at 40mm which works out quite well. Braces are about 3/6 deep and then the outer sections epoxied on. LE is 1/8 plus another 1/8 after sheeting is done. Ailerons simply cut out and faced with 1/8 but if I had had enough suitable wood I would have made them solid. Not worth a 50 mile round trip to the LMS.

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I've had 3 Lancasters first one scratch built 55" span with 2 OS 20s second one a priory models 72 " with 4 400 brushed motors and this one built by eflightray 104"span. Every one yawed on ailerons. The Priory one had no rudders and I thought I was going to loose it as it wouldn't turn at half throttle, I opened it up to full and managed to turn it. The current one will fly well on rudder and elevator, Ray had the motors linked to the rudders, I prefer the outers on one battery and the inners on a second battery.

I haven't linked the ailerons to the rudders as I prefer to keep them separate. 

Looking forward to seeing your Lanc flying, good luck with the eyes, I had my left eye cataract done 24 years ago, had great vision since but I think age is catching up now.

Regarding material costs the Lancaster is built from depron covered with paper ironed on with thinned PVA weight 11lb 




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On 21/10/2023 at 06:28, Martin McIntosh said:

I have flown a TN 132", my own design 81" and the small HK version, all of which refused to turn with ailerons alone 


3 hours ago, Eric Robson said:

Every one yawed on ailerons.



I've had a B-25, about 2m span. Behaved the same. 


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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all, I decided to wait until the model was completed before posting again.

With 2x TGY 3s 500 HV packs configured as 3s2p plus all the other extra bits and pieces it comes out at a pleasing 712g so very much the same as the original slope version.

The Lite Span over sheeted surfaces has not turned out too well despite much previous use on open structures, but it will have to do.

Fettling the linkages etc with the wing connected up has been a nightmare, with some evil gremlin seemingly changing things overnight, but got there in the end.

One thing I have never done before was to hinge the surfaces before painting. Big mistake. When the satin lacquer set it gummed up all the hinge lines and has taken a lot of work to free them up.

I said above that pics were to follow soon but the weather is so dull that I shall leave it for a while longer.

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Hi Martin,

A club member said that you have just built a RCM&E Lancaster, found your article very interesting as I have just finished mine and it had its first test flight last week.

I kept it simple, no retracts or rudder. It’s all made from Depron covered in 17g glass cloth which kept it light, all up weight 510g with a 1000mAh 3S battery.

Flys really well powered by 2211 2300KV motors on 5”x3” three bladed props giving a total thrust of 400g at full power.

Looking forward to your comments after your Lancaster first test flight.

Regards John Ivory.

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Now for a few pics.

I forgot to say that after the basic 3/32nd sides I gave up trying to bend the stuff I had around the tight curves so changed to 1/16th. The only thing I have had to buy was some more Guild paint since my old tins had dried up somewhat. The satin lacquer is Rustin`s plastic floor coating.

I shall not bother to make the turret or canopy until I know that the model flies OK. Very much doubt that spinners and inner cowls would be practicable.



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