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Gyroo II 'the pusher version'

Richard Harris

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Met up with a couple of mates today for a flying session. 

Rich has now finished his Gyroo II and has made a super job.

Here is a video I took of one of his many flights.



A few photos.







we also managed get 3 models into the air, I need to go through my video footage to see if I captured anything.


Great fun



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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry bout that.

So when you step out of your back door in the morning and are hit by 31deg in the shade you kind of know that this is not the best conditions to fly cos your eye balls dry up in the wind .So this has been one of the problems that I have been unable to fly, so I had to find other ways to pass the time.

Whilst perusing thingiverse I spied a blade sanding jig that had been designed for the Panther /Gyroo. So off I went and printed this work of art.

I came out pretty good but was designed for 6mm balsa and I wanted to use 7mm .I could have modified the print but decided to make one out of a timber composite material.

I have now made two sets of blades and am pretty happy with the result, not that I ever had a problem sanding blades but this set up gives me a more constant profile. I did find on the first pass that I had few prominent score marks ,but found that brushing on water and allowing to dry raised the wood and then when sanding longways on the blade all the imperfections disappeared (well most of them ) One very important thing came out of this project was that not one speck of sawdust was lost during the project as I had the shopvac hooked up .I have seen that sanding is a problem with some of you.Take note Rich  .I have a spare set of blades with no model.

Now on to a bit of 3D printing. I did design a motor mount that did not have offset ,but during early testing foundthat it did not suitable this model and so I have made a few versions with a 6mm offset. This uses a crimp plate similar to the wooden version. Rich advised me that the ply version came in at 13 grams and my one came in a little heavier at around 16 gms.I realize that this was an unnecessary project but I just wanted to play with tinkercad to see if this old guy could actually do it .I use a couple of British farthing's a s tip weight an her is my very low teck /light weight / non digital 15 deg angle tester .Lets see if I can add a couple of pics to let you see what I was on about.

I do like the one of the tree support ,It makes the part look organic.












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Looking good, I must try that sanding jig.  I've got a final sanding block that I 3d printed which works well but it's in PLA so you have to be careful not to create too much heat.

Hang on to that spare set of blades, I will soon be back on track with my 118. The ED is ultra keen on it as you can imagine.


Let us know how it goes, don't forget your camera.


You lost me with Farthing...............:classic_biggrin:


Edited by Richard Harris
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Another is ready to maiden, this one is 90% 3D printed (including the blades) by Ian S who is a bit of master with the plastic autogyros. It's turned out a little heavier than the traditionally built versions but should still have a lightish rotor loading.

The weather is looking favourable but a little chilly over the weekend, fingers crossed.



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19 hours ago, Chris Dowell said:




A farthing is a 1/4 of a penny...which is 1/12 of a a shilling which is 1/20 of a pound .I guessing you are unaware of pre metric.😲


I remember the old 10p and 5ps, think they must have been the decimal crossover coins as they were shilling and two shillings on them. I've got a few pre metric coins a chap at work gave me, don't think there's a Farthing though, will have a look later.


Ian S maidened his 3d printed Gyroo II today and he's pretty pleased with it. 

Blades are a new design and are (I think) printed in two halves as his printers Z axis is quite high. The main components not printed are the  UC legs, mast and boom. 


Here's a video of its second flight.



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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello Again,


While everybody else has enjoyed success with their Gyroo 2 I have not been so Lucky.

Bad weather has hampered any attempt to maiden my Gyroo 2 and when I did get to the flying site, the ground was wet and bumpy and no wind.

So I attempted a take off run, not only did I suffer from the lack of ground control but also not enough power to get the rotor blades up to speed.

I tried several times to get the blades up to speed and it was clear that I did not have enough power or control to turn the model round and try a take off run in the opposite direction then I noticed my blades droop to the ground.

On looking at the model I noticed the body had spit along the battery plate line, center core where the grain of the wood runs.


While no one else has suffered this problem I decided not to just glue it back together along the split but to make a new body.



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So here is my new build of the body.


I decided to make the Ply sides as one for each side rather than four parts with a slot where the battery plate slides into.

Also due to the lack of power I decided to use a 4s Lipo as I was not getting enough power from the 3s Lipo I was using which also would need a bigger hole for the battery to seat in.




So I made some new templates and marked out onto the Lite ply which I struggled to get hold of,.

But a trip to Hobbycraft proved fruitful as they sell Popular Ply in 30cm x 60cm which is the same weight and thickness and with some careful planing all the parts needed just fit. Phew

As I already had 6.5mm Balsa for the inner core.


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And the new battery plate slots into place nice and snug.





I found packing tape works well for covering the model more than can be said for the blue solar film that has already started to peal away.




I may have to remove the blue covering and used some colored tape instead.



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No Steve ,you are not the only one to have this problem.I actually split the fuz in half during construction as I was installing the side rails into the slot,the grain split.

After flooding the joint with thin CA and quite a lot of bad language all held together.

I suggested to Rich that the center 6mm core should have the grain vertical stopping this problem .AND I also had a similar problem with the U/C mounting ply.I performed a heli landing with no roll out (straight down) and found out later that the wire U/C had spread splitting the ply. CA applied to the split ply and a couple of bolts above the wire so it cant happen again.


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