EarlyBird Posted October 26 Author Share Posted October 26 Setting up the root rib with the 3 degrees dihedral cut into the web and at 90 degrees to the spar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 I've finally decided to put the front dihedral brace like this To do the same on the rear spar would cut through the ribs, not a good idea? Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 The lower sheeting should hold the ribs in place as only the ribs are usually cut not the sheeting. Sheeeting on top should help too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 My recollection of building a model with 2 wing panels and separate centre section is that if the dihedral braces are even slightly out then the wing panels don't fit properly. ( my model was a Vic Smeed design and 'Boddo' followed Vic's ideas, methods and wing sections ) So glueing the dihedral braces in AFTER the wing panels are joined to centre section would seem to be easier in my view. Gives a chance of cutting the slots exactly right. Also if the end ribs are even slightly un-square it throws the dihedral brace out of line. I just mention this as you might like to get other opinions on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 (edited) Too late to edit my earlier comments. Your photo makes it look like a separate centre section but studying the Outerzone plan it looks like no separate centre section just 2 wing panels! Disregard my comments except the point about root ribs that are not exactly square. Leaving one root rib loose until wing is joined will help. Edited October 29 by kc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 Thanks @kc👍 Here's the second in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 That looks fine EB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted October 31 Author Share Posted October 31 Third rib added, with hole for the aileron wire As Ron told me to take it steady it's going to be one rib a day.🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 Earlybird, I hate to be critical of your beautiful balsa work but is the rear dihedral brace in the right place? Surely it should be actually joined onto the wing spar not just above it? ( of course it may be just in loose at the moment and not in proper position ) Same with the front dihedral brace. I thought it better to say something now rather than when it's too late! Of course i am looking at the Outerzone plan ( the RCM one ) which is not clear on this point and in fact does not show the brace in the wing crosssection. Your plan might differ on this aspect, but it's normal to join the dihedral brace onto the spar or at least onto the webbing at spar level. Better to get other peoples opinion too if the plan is not clear on this crucial point - of course I may be wrong! Wing strength is the most important thing........ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 1 Author Share Posted November 1 Absolutely kc my plan is also very vague on the braces position and I didn't like the front brace glued to the shear web. I've glued them both to the bottom spars. I will add them to the top spar, butt joints are to be avoided. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 1 Share Posted November 1 A typical Boddington design has the dihedral brace glued to the shear web, so I suppose it works well. Study of other Boddo plans on Outerzone shows this but they are mostly smaller than the Mighty Barnstormer. Personally I would put the brace one side of the spar and webbing the other side. Glued alongside the spar not on top. I would say the important thing is not just to strengthen the spar but to ensure it connects well to the cabanne strut mounting bolts. Of course something has to give in a crash so it's better for the wing sheeting to give way rather than the spar. Easier to fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 1 Author Share Posted November 1 All the ribs are done. And started the TE shear webs. Plenty more to do. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 TE webs completed And gaps between the top and bottom spars filled in and glued to the braces. Next will be the top spars. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 Spars and other bits done ready for TE top sheet. Steve 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 3 Author Share Posted November 3 TE done And The wing tip has been started. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 3 Share Posted November 3 Enjoyed all my Boddo builds, looking good Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 It's fun I enjoyed building his mini super and flying it Turned the board around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 (edited) The bottom sheet was pulled up last night and glued in place. The leading edge was planed and sanded down to the ribs. All of the bits for the cabane struts are now gluing. Once a bit more sanding is done then the leading edge will be glued in place. Edited November 4 by EarlyBird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 I decided a long time ago to make the leading edge from two 6 mm pieces the reason why I haven't not got a clue now Here is the first layer glued and clamped drying overnight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 The picture yesterday seems to show a lower mainspar that is not continuous but is joined and that joint is just at the cabanne mounts. Other pics seem to show the rear dihedral brace only joined to the extra bit of spar not to the main part of the spar. Did the plan show that? It's normal that any spar joint is at the tip not the root end to avoid a weakness at the fuselage/ cabanne area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 Hi kc, the spars are continuous I bought 4 foot lengths so that there would be no joins. I think it's a shadow you are seeing Second lamination glued and clamped in place. I remember now why I went for a quarter inch balsa into layers rather than the one layer of half inch the reason is balsa was becoming expensive and doing it this way I used one sheet of quarter inch and reduce wastage. Something else I forgot to mention was that I have sanded the top spars and the top of the ribs the tops spars have been shaped approximately to the ribs by doing this when the sheet is applied there will not be a flat spot running along the line of the spars Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 I am glad to hear spars are continuous! But it's a weird optical illusion - when I look at that pic ( the one with the captive nut ) it seems like the spar does not continue. Probably due to the webbing being slightly different at that point and the ply captive nut plate obscuring the lower spar edge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 Leading edge top sheet started. Here it is with the leading edge pins holding it in place while the dampened balsa dries to shape. Now glued Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 6 Author Share Posted November 6 Left to dry overnight this is how it looks now. As you can see I have started on the leading edge I have great difficulty in resisting the temptation to start using the David plane. Here is the underside. A bit of sanding should sort that out. Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 6 Author Share Posted November 6 After lots of planing and sanding this is the result Cap strips next for a change. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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