Jump to content

Hemmingway 5cc diesel engine build?


911hillclimber
 Share

Recommended Posts

The engine mount plate is bolted through the work top, not using the camping at all. The work mate is a very flimsily affair, but allows starting in the garden so no fuel over everything in the garage.

Thanks for the advice on the prop, and also the starting technique, I think that will save me a lot of frustration!

 

As to the piston lightening machining, well, that looked impossible to me!

 

Pesky gaskets cut (and fit) so total clean down tomorrow in brake cleaner spray.

The bright 1/2 nuts on the cylinder bug me, so have ordered some blackened steel full nuts off ebay today. Worth the wait to use them and will add to the 'period look' on final assembly.

I was going to engine paint the cylinder, but i think the fuel will lift anything but electro plating off, so not worth the effort.

 

Thinking of the next project which I think will be getting my 2 old sparky engines to work.

 

That can't be too hard surely??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


I think the question of how to machine that "lightened,alternative piston" has been debated over the years and no one has come up with a method of how to go about it . Instead of those studs and nuts,why didnt you use hex screws? They look a lot neater.

Keith.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once your happy with running the engine and want to add colour to the cylinder fins  have try at Anodising. Pic below is a crankcase I made for my Boddo Mills. If you fo try anodising then start with blue or red dyes as greens yellows are notoriously tricky to get right.

IMG_20220126_161836116.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After I get it running I will clean and paint ready for display!

 

Just realised that I have not finished the wrist pin. I have to add the brass pads on each end, so that fiddly job to do while i await the cylinder nuts AND the 1/2 litre of diesel fuel off ebay.

Local model shop cannot supply diesel or glow fuel now!

£23 for the fuel!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, 911hillclimber said:

After I get it running I will clean and paint ready for display!

 

Just realised that I have not finished the wrist pin. I have to add the brass pads on each end, so that fiddly job to do while i await the cylinder nuts AND the 1/2 litre of diesel fuel off ebay.

Local model shop cannot supply diesel or glow fuel now!

£23 for the fuel!!

Southern model craft used to sell a ltr for less than that ! Luckily  i stocked before Dave retired. The new owners have gone quiet but were supposed to be keeping the name going. Fingers crossed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
This will make a nice paperweight!

It will NOT start no matter what I do or try.
Do not feel inclined to keep on trying as I feel there simply is not enough compression to get to the ideal mixture.

In the meantime I've bought another design to make on the Drummond. It is a 1933 design spark ignition, 6.3cc and more complex to machine.

Tinkering is better than using.

The audience has all but dissipated now, so thanks for following the adventure, and a special thanks to those who have guided my progress on my first engine.
I won't do a thread on the next engine.

Image

Image
73T 911 Cou
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You cannot give up after all the fun you have had so far! All you need to do is go back a few posts, hone the cylinder with a taper and make a new piston, honed to a tight fit just above the exhaust port. Wear it in by the process of backwards and forwards rotation, until it goes over TDC, You will then have the compression  that is needed. Take a few days off and come back to it with a fresh outlook. Think of the pleasure you will get when it first fires!!

Keith.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I will rig up an electric starter using a pistol drill running anti-clockwise and see if fast repeated turning over will get it going.

Not even a good dose of Easy Start helped.

Another piston sounds boring, but maybe I'll try again.

What i don't grasp is that I can take the compression to very near hydraulic lock down to 'zero' and nothing happens, you just loose the 'pop' as the piston goes over centre.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trying an electric motor means of starting it is not a good idear at this stage. You willl be bound to flood it and create an hydraulic lock, which will bend the con rod,at least.  The answer is in name of the type, COMPRESSION ignition. If you do not have compression pressure, before TDC, you are wasting prescious fuel.

Keith.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, good advice.

I used this method on a 1949 Terrot French motorcycle 2T petrol I restored a few years ago to good effect, but not a tiny oil burner.

 

The wood prop has started to splinter where I've been using the broom handle to flick it over. The handle has a plastic protective sleeve which is intact!

Not sure this is all worth it, but will try harder this weekend.

 

Funny how the distinct smell of the fuel brings back memories from 60 years ago!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I smell of ether...

I smell of blood sweat and tears...

 

This engine (if I dare call it that) will not start.

both wrists hurt from trying and the wood prop looks like firewood.

 

I have decided to leave it for a while or for ever (preferably) and let it sit on the shelf and remind me that this is a Bad Day.

 

Found a fancy brass engine stand, so this is the final picture:

 

_DSC0080 (2).JPG

Edited by 911hillclimber
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a pity Hillclimber. I was looking forward t9 seeing it run . Are the transfer ports opening ok ie piston not too high or low ? Is cranckcase compression ok as this is more important than cylinder compressìon on a two stroke ? If crankcase comp is poor then you will only get a pop now and again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Yes, I am disappointed in the lot TBH.

I've battle long and hard on many restorations and won despite lots of issues, but have little interest in fight this out.

The project was more to do with the old lathe than the engine, but a runner would have been good.

 

A new ultra tight fitting piston would possibly answer your thoughts?

 

There is absolutely no activity in this engine, not a pop or anything suggesting it will fire, just nothing.

Must be fundamentally wrong somewhere in what I've made.

 

When the piston is at BDC the piston top is flush with the ports.

Edited by 911hillclimber
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you prop is damaged,as you say, do not use it for a running engine as bits might fly off and cause injury. Cut it down to about 2.1/2 inch diameter with square ends and put it on the engine for display purposes.

What is the other diesel on the shelf? Does that one run?

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The engine on the right I found in a local antiques market for £18.

It is a cracker, moves freely too.

was going to get it going, but was bothered it would fail and break.

I asked on Rome about what is was, but long forgotten now!

 

Im sure the above is right.

 

Ill gather my other engines together to be of more interest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

These are the engines in my 'collection'. Bought when found cheap or bought with my heart, not head!

In order of the pics below:

Autojumble find for £5 40 years ago:

 

OS PET from my schooldays:

 

Bought for £70 when on hols via ebay some years ago:

 

My favorite find for £18:

 

My very first ever ebay buy, a delightful CO2 in the model, i have the wing too:

 

And the last one not pictured, but a new PAW 1.5cc still boxed, never run.

 

_DSC0082 (2).JPG

_DSC0083.JPG

_DSC0085.JPG

_DSC0080 (3).JPG

_DSC0081 (2).JPG

_DSC0087.JPG

_DSC0086.JPG

_DSC0084.JPG

Edited by 911hillclimber
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi hill climber,

 

A good source of ether is John Deer easy start', about 70 percent from memory.

 

Have you tried warming the engine prior to starting ?

 

Does the warming reduce compression....I presume you are happy the engine is "pumping", and has good crank case "depression"...

 

I am sure you can "knock up" a suitable "pressure indicator, for both  negative and positive pressures.....

 

On priming, via exhaust port only, just a single drop of fuel, a small drop at that....printer ink kits have smallish syringes, if you ask nicely at the chemists ( and tell them what you want it for ) they will sell you some small syringes, just be really really carefull with the needles !!

 

As has been said, take a break from it, come back refreshed...

 

What fuel are you trying it on by the way ?

 

 

 

Edited by Rich Griff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Thank you Rich.

The fuel is the MT stuff, 1000, in a white tin.

Must admit to using more than a drop of fuel to exhaust-port prime, but did not drown the engine.

Tried a mix of easy start (old can of it) and the fuel, but to no avail.

 

It is on the shelf now, but I'm sure i will re-visit it before long.

 

Started the Atom Minor today and did some good accurate machining too!

Edited by 911hillclimber
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...