911hillclimber Posted April 7 Author Share Posted April 7 The engine mount plate is bolted through the work top, not using the camping at all. The work mate is a very flimsily affair, but allows starting in the garden so no fuel over everything in the garage. Thanks for the advice on the prop, and also the starting technique, I think that will save me a lot of frustration! As to the piston lightening machining, well, that looked impossible to me! Pesky gaskets cut (and fit) so total clean down tomorrow in brake cleaner spray. The bright 1/2 nuts on the cylinder bug me, so have ordered some blackened steel full nuts off ebay today. Worth the wait to use them and will add to the 'period look' on final assembly. I was going to engine paint the cylinder, but i think the fuel will lift anything but electro plating off, so not worth the effort. Thinking of the next project which I think will be getting my 2 old sparky engines to work. That can't be too hard surely?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEITH BEAUMONT 1 Posted April 7 Share Posted April 7 I think the question of how to machine that "lightened,alternative piston" has been debated over the years and no one has come up with a method of how to go about it . Instead of those studs and nuts,why didnt you use hex screws? They look a lot neater. Keith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 7 Share Posted April 7 Once your happy with running the engine and want to add colour to the cylinder fins have try at Anodising. Pic below is a crankcase I made for my Boddo Mills. If you fo try anodising then start with blue or red dyes as greens yellows are notoriously tricky to get right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 After I get it running I will clean and paint ready for display! Just realised that I have not finished the wrist pin. I have to add the brass pads on each end, so that fiddly job to do while i await the cylinder nuts AND the 1/2 litre of diesel fuel off ebay. Local model shop cannot supply diesel or glow fuel now! £23 for the fuel!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 2 hours ago, 911hillclimber said: After I get it running I will clean and paint ready for display! Just realised that I have not finished the wrist pin. I have to add the brass pads on each end, so that fiddly job to do while i await the cylinder nuts AND the 1/2 litre of diesel fuel off ebay. Local model shop cannot supply diesel or glow fuel now! £23 for the fuel!! Southern model craft used to sell a ltr for less than that ! Luckily i stocked before Dave retired. The new owners have gone quiet but were supposed to be keeping the name going. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEITH BEAUMONT 1 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 For Brass pads on the gudgeon pin, use 1/16" brass rivets. Keith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Oddly, made the brass ended pin in a jiffy and is a nice snug fit and feels good in the cylinder, so job done. Wonder if the ends will last? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 This will make a nice paperweight! It will NOT start no matter what I do or try. Do not feel inclined to keep on trying as I feel there simply is not enough compression to get to the ideal mixture. In the meantime I've bought another design to make on the Drummond. It is a 1933 design spark ignition, 6.3cc and more complex to machine. Tinkering is better than using. The audience has all but dissipated now, so thanks for following the adventure, and a special thanks to those who have guided my progress on my first engine. I won't do a thread on the next engine. 73T 911 Cou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEITH BEAUMONT 1 Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 You cannot give up after all the fun you have had so far! All you need to do is go back a few posts, hone the cylinder with a taper and make a new piston, honed to a tight fit just above the exhaust port. Wear it in by the process of backwards and forwards rotation, until it goes over TDC, You will then have the compression that is needed. Take a few days off and come back to it with a fresh outlook. Think of the pleasure you will get when it first fires!! Keith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 19 Author Share Posted April 19 I think I will rig up an electric starter using a pistol drill running anti-clockwise and see if fast repeated turning over will get it going. Not even a good dose of Easy Start helped. Another piston sounds boring, but maybe I'll try again. What i don't grasp is that I can take the compression to very near hydraulic lock down to 'zero' and nothing happens, you just loose the 'pop' as the piston goes over centre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEITH BEAUMONT 1 Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Trying an electric motor means of starting it is not a good idear at this stage. You willl be bound to flood it and create an hydraulic lock, which will bend the con rod,at least. The answer is in name of the type, COMPRESSION ignition. If you do not have compression pressure, before TDC, you are wasting prescious fuel. Keith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 Yes, good advice. I used this method on a 1949 Terrot French motorcycle 2T petrol I restored a few years ago to good effect, but not a tiny oil burner. The wood prop has started to splinter where I've been using the broom handle to flick it over. The handle has a plastic protective sleeve which is intact! Not sure this is all worth it, but will try harder this weekend. Funny how the distinct smell of the fuel brings back memories from 60 years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 (edited) I smell of ether... I smell of blood sweat and tears... This engine (if I dare call it that) will not start. both wrists hurt from trying and the wood prop looks like firewood. I have decided to leave it for a while or for ever (preferably) and let it sit on the shelf and remind me that this is a Bad Day. Found a fancy brass engine stand, so this is the final picture: Edited April 20 by 911hillclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Thats a pity Hillclimber. I was looking forward t9 seeing it run . Are the transfer ports opening ok ie piston not too high or low ? Is cranckcase compression ok as this is more important than cylinder compressìon on a two stroke ? If crankcase comp is poor then you will only get a pop now and again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 (edited) Yes, I am disappointed in the lot TBH. I've battle long and hard on many restorations and won despite lots of issues, but have little interest in fight this out. The project was more to do with the old lathe than the engine, but a runner would have been good. A new ultra tight fitting piston would possibly answer your thoughts? There is absolutely no activity in this engine, not a pop or anything suggesting it will fire, just nothing. Must be fundamentally wrong somewhere in what I've made. When the piston is at BDC the piston top is flush with the ports. Edited April 20 by 911hillclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 Should have said the exhaust ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEITH BEAUMONT 1 Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 If you prop is damaged,as you say, do not use it for a running engine as bits might fly off and cause injury. Cut it down to about 2.1/2 inch diameter with square ends and put it on the engine for display purposes. What is the other diesel on the shelf? Does that one run? Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Looks like a Majesco 2.2 from 1946 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 That's a shame, but it does look good. And you made it! From scratch! 👏 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 The engine on the right I found in a local antiques market for £18. It is a cracker, moves freely too. was going to get it going, but was bothered it would fail and break. I asked on Rome about what is was, but long forgotten now! Im sure the above is right. Ill gather my other engines together to be of more interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 (edited) These are the engines in my 'collection'. Bought when found cheap or bought with my heart, not head! In order of the pics below: Autojumble find for £5 40 years ago: OS PET from my schooldays: Bought for £70 when on hols via ebay some years ago: My favorite find for £18: My very first ever ebay buy, a delightful CO2 in the model, i have the wing too: And the last one not pictured, but a new PAW 1.5cc still boxed, never run. Edited April 21 by 911hillclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEITH BEAUMONT 1 Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 Some nice Golden Oldies there. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 (edited) Hi hill climber, A good source of ether is John Deer easy start', about 70 percent from memory. Have you tried warming the engine prior to starting ? Does the warming reduce compression....I presume you are happy the engine is "pumping", and has good crank case "depression"... I am sure you can "knock up" a suitable "pressure indicator, for both negative and positive pressures..... On priming, via exhaust port only, just a single drop of fuel, a small drop at that....printer ink kits have smallish syringes, if you ask nicely at the chemists ( and tell them what you want it for ) they will sell you some small syringes, just be really really carefull with the needles !! As has been said, take a break from it, come back refreshed... What fuel are you trying it on by the way ? Edited April 21 by Rich Griff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 John deer should read John Deere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 (edited) Thank you Rich. The fuel is the MT stuff, 1000, in a white tin. Must admit to using more than a drop of fuel to exhaust-port prime, but did not drown the engine. Tried a mix of easy start (old can of it) and the fuel, but to no avail. It is on the shelf now, but I'm sure i will re-visit it before long. Started the Atom Minor today and did some good accurate machining too! Edited April 21 by 911hillclimber 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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