Warbirds Replicas Tempest - tips and tricks

[Eric Robson]

Just to add to Ron's comments on washout, make sure the 3mm layer on the laminated trailing edge is in line with the bottom of the wing as most of it will be removed to gain the washout even as Ron mentioned sanding into the ply.

[Ron Gray]

Following on from Eric's post above, as a guideline, for the laminated LE glue it to the wing so that the ply is about 1/3rd of the way up:

 

 

And the laminated TE glued with its bottom surface level with the underside of the balsa false TE (sand that to the wing profile before gluing the laminated TE on).

[Eric Robson]

The two wood screws are fitted both ends of the ply support between F1 and F2 the rear one must be flush for hatch removal, I used a 2.5mm drill. Position and mark the rear one before gluing remove and drill as unless you have a mini drill or right angle drill it will be awkward to drill once in place. 

[Ron Gray]

The wing dowel locates through a hole in F3, I’ve used a bit of scrap ply to increase the thickness of F3, maybe not necessary but I feel happier!

 

 

[Eric Robson]

Did you have to remove much from the wing to fit between F3  and 7? 

Mine was about 5mm too wide.

[Ron Gray]

Yes, I’ve shown it on the latest (no 7) video.

[GrumpyGnome]

Is there an advantage in drilling F3 in-situ, over drilling a hole before building the fuselage...?

[Eric Robson]

23 minutes ago, GrumpyGnome said:

Is there an advantage in drilling F3 in-situ, over drilling a hole before building the fuselage...?

I built the wing then lined it up to the fuselage, marked the hole for the wing bolt through the rear attachment hole then bolted the wing to the fuselage, clamped it in place then drilled the hole through F3 and the wing  for the dowel. I wanted to make sure it would be central through leading edge. 

If you can garrantee the dowel hole being in the right place then drilling it beforehand is easier. 

[Ron Gray]

It's really not a problem drilling it after you've mounted the wing, which, as Eric has said, makes sure that the dowel is in the right place in the wing!

[GrumpyGnome]

I suppose that allows for any minor discrepancies in the cutting of the wing seating, and wing itself, plus any central wing bandage, and associated fettling...... cheers.

[Ron Gray]

Drilling the hole in the wing for the wing dowel is made easier if you fit a block of balsa to the front of the wing first!

[Eric Robson]

How many people have started on the Tempest kit ? apart from Ron and myself there is not much going on. OK It's summer and who wants to model on these beautiful warm evenings .

[DaveB1]

Got to finish tiling and fitting a kitchen before starting mine I'm afraid 😕, so I daren't even open the box or I'll vet tempted

[martin collins 1]

Got mine yesterday as a present the wife, had a good rummage in the box 😁 but it will not get started for a while as i am finishing off a couple of other models and am busy with my classic car and Trackdays this time of year. 

[Flyer]

Starting this weekend. 

[Ron Gray]

Neither Eric or I could find the balsa support blocks that Richard retro fitted to his after a slightly heavy landing. These are the ones I mean and it will mean raiding your off cuts box for suitable bits, they won’t be seen so they needn’t be pretty but should be fitted.

 

[John Timmis]

I’m cracking on with the build, not too far behind the leaders. Will be fitting the servo boxes in the wings & doing the fuselage decking today.

Enjoying following the thread, thanks chaps.

I have fixed the leading edge problem by gluing a strip of balsa , 1” by 3/32” to the top of the wing core. This has enabled a good leading edge profile to be sanded.

Tallyho, John.

[Eric Robson]

3 hours ago, Ron Gray said:

Neither Eric or I could find the balsa support blocks that Richard retro fitted to his after a slightly heavy landing. These are the ones I mean and it will mean raiding your off cuts box for suitable bits, they won’t be seen so they needn’t be pretty but should be fitted.

 

Looking at the chamfer angle  they could be 6mm balsa .

 

[Ron Gray]

I think that 6mm with the grain going between F1 and F2 would work and there are sufficient scraps left over from the TE balsa sheets to do that. 

[Eric Robson]

I placed the 2 6mm motor mounts between F1 and F2 flush with the top edge of the ply doubler. It may be better to place them flush to the bottom to give the small cowl lower block more contact area. Not vital but as you can see there is a gap which would be better filled as Ron has shown the 2 angled pieces (not in  the kit but enough 6mm offcuts to make them ) could go further down to the top of the 6mm doublers 

[Eric Robson]

The ply sides forward from F2 to F1step down 3mm, I have added 2.5 mm balsa right or wrong to support the cowl. I will see when the front is sanded with the cowl in place

[Eric Robson]

The plan shows a 5mm tail plane 6mm is supplied. The fin needs to be shortened over the distance of the tailplane to sit on the t/p and fuselage, also the area of the fuselage behind the tailplane  will have to be filled so hang on to the offcuts 

[Ron Gray]

12 hours ago, Eric Robson said:

The ply sides forward from F2 to F1step down 3mm, I have added 2.5 mm balsa right or wrong to support the cowl. I will see when the front is sanded with the cowl in place

I've done the same Eric, I feel that the cowl is slightly too wide to fit butting up to the fuselage sides so I may have two put up with it overlapping the sides. It's not the end of the world and can be made to look like a panel.

[Ron Gray]

Just seen the typo in my post, two should be to 🥴

[Wihtgar]

Ron's right about not applying too much brown gorilla glue. I've never used it before and obviously applied too much to the TE closing member and nothing seemed to happen until after about an hour and then loads extruded out of the joint and tipped over the balsa strip slightly even though it was secured with tape. Still, easy to rectify. Will know next time I use i!

 

Nigel