ESC Arming Switches

[Matt Carlton]

Like a lot of us I suspect, I generally just plug/unplug the Lipo from the ESC before and after flying a model. 

 

Generally, that is reasonably straightforward but I can imagine some situations where accessibility might not be so good. 

 

Is there a way of having a remote "switch" so that a Lipo could be connected at home safely and then "armed" at the field. I assume that a simple switch in the lead between ESC and Rx wouldn't work. So potentially an extension lead to bring the connection to a more accessible position to plug/unplug seems practical. 

[Basil]

10 minutes ago, Matt Carlton said:

Like a lot of us I suspect, I generally just plug/unplug the Lipo from the ESC before and after flying a model. 

 

Generally, that is reasonably straightforward but I can imagine some situations where accessibility might not be so good. 

 

Is there a way of having a remote "switch" so that a Lipo could be connected at home safely and then "armed" at the field. I assume that a simple switch in the lead between ESC and Rx wouldn't work. So potentially an extension lead to bring the connection to a more accessible position to plug/unplug seems practical. 

You can always identify one of the  channels on the TX as a cut out switch for the motor.

Bas

[Colin Carpenter]

Have a look at the Hobbyking panel xt60 arming plug/ socket  . I use them in most of my models !Colin

[Peter Jenkins]

53 minutes ago, Basil said:

You can always identify one of the  channels on the TX as a cut out switch for the motor.

Bas

You may not have read the 3rd para in which the OP is looking to fit the LiPo at home and make it live at the field.  Having a switch on the Tx is not the way ahead.

 

I have noted the issue that some folks use a kill switch and consider that to have made the model safe.  In my opinion, that means you are relying on the software in the Tx and the ESC not having a hissy fit and allowing the motor to start.  In such a case, you would be hard pressed in a court of law to say that you had taken reasonable precautions when the real answer is to consider the aircraft as being live once the battery pack has been plugged in regardless of whether you have a kill switch fitted to your Tx.  Regardless of whether I have my kill switch on, I always restrain my model once the flight pack has been connected and treat it as live when transiting from the pits to the runway.

 

I have used a physical break in one of the battery wires outside the model.  You connect that when you are ready to arm the aircraft and, as it's outside the aircraft you can arm once the aircraft is on the runway or as soon as it as landed before recovery to the pits.  This solution might not be viable for those who use the ESC to power their Rx.  

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

One of our electric pylon racers uses a standard fuse that he plugs in just before take off, as the wing is screwed down over the battery.

[Frank Skilbeck]

I have some old Jeti ESCs which incorporate an arming switch, looking at the manual for the Mezon range it looks like that is an.option. But I must admit I wouldn't travel to the field with a lipo connected in a model.

[Frank Day]

Something like this, it would need some wiring work. I know someone who has this on a model with awkward battery install, they have a holder and connector fitted under a cover.  In fact Im looking at installing one on a model with a battery that has to be installed with the model upside down, followed by covers so it would be nice to arm it once righted.  

https://themodelshop.net/dynamite-ec5-battery-jumper---o-dync0166-389881-p.asp

 

I have an Eflite 60a ESC from a Carbon Cub that has the wee arming switch, like this:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166630644351?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=166630644351&targetid=1405537545098&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9044929&poi=1006764&campaignid=21197380266&mkgroupid=166718579212&rlsatarget=pla-1405537545098&abcId=9406796&merchantid=113600552&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwupGyBhBBEiwA0UcqaOKIqaTqjwqlPxLg8nJcHSLIUvXwjDQTdB5QxBWUnZjJuFO29L80eRoCiMwQAvD_BwE

Edited May 15, 2024 by Frank Day
insanity

[Neil James]

Installing the battery into a model for travelling is a really bad idea, if something goes wrong then access to the battery is unnecessarily difficult and you could end up losing the whole model when you might otherwise have been able to remove the battery to a safe location. I saw it happen some years ago at our club: a member arrived at the field  with smoke coming out of his model, he was able to get it out of his car but it was too dangerous to remove the battery from the model and the whole lot went up in flames. 
 

I carry my batteries in a charging bag kept on the passenger seat where it can be monitored. If it gets hot or smokes the whole bag can be quickly removed  or even flung out of the car window in the worst case. 

[Peter Jenkins]

If you really want the facility to switch the main pack, Jeti do one that you can operste from your Tx - at a price.  See this https://esoaringgadgets.co.uk/jeti-main-switch-100-rcsw.html

 

They also do a 200 amp model at twice the price.

 

 

[PatMc]

1 hour ago, Frank Skilbeck said:

I have some old Jeti ESCs which incorporate an arming switch, looking at the manual for the Mezon range it looks like that is an.option. But I must admit I wouldn't travel to the field with a lipo connected in a model.

I think you'll find that the switch only disconnects the Rx, the battery is still being drained when in the off position. I still have several old Jeti ESCs but the switches have now been removed & the wires shorted. 

[leccyflyer]

Yep, I've done that on my old Jeti ESCs which were equipped with switches, nowadays that's just an unnecessary complication and an additional potential point of failure.

[leccyflyer]

57 minutes ago, Neil James said:

Installing the battery into a model for travelling is a really bad idea, if something goes wrong then access to the battery is unnecessarily difficult and you could end up losing the whole model when you might otherwise have been able to remove the battery to a safe location. I saw it happen some years ago at our club: a member arrived at the field  with smoke coming out of his model, he was able to get it out of his car but it was too dangerous to remove the battery from the model and the whole lot went up in flames. 
 

I carry my batteries in a charging bag kept on the passenger seat where it can be monitored. If it gets hot or smokes the whole bag can be quickly removed  or even flung out of the car window in the worst case. 

Good points.

 

I'd never put a lipo in a model for transport to the field. My lipos are in reportedly fireproof bags for transport and storage, though I'm pretty sure that the number of lipos carried exceeds the capacity of the bags to contain the effects of one going off and spreading to several. They are behind the passenger seat, to keep them secure in the event of a collision, so that they are not thrown forward. In the winter, I have recently adopted a policy of putting them inside a cool bag with a hot water bottle to keep them at a nice temperature and sitting them on the heated passenger seat. When I arrive at the field they are at  a nice temperature of around 20 degrees C.

 

That led to a bit of a puzzle recently when heading to the field on some twisty roads, when I was getting an intermittent beeping alarm momentarily in the car and I couldn't place it. After a few times I concluded that it was the passenger seat belt alarm, which was activating when going around a sharp bend. In straight and level travel the lipo bag didn't have sufficient weight to activate the seat sensor, but going round a bend there was sufficient G loading to trip that. I stopped it by putting the seat belt around the bag, which was probably a good idea anyway.

[Phil Green]

https://forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/topic/46214-switching-of-main-lipo-battery/