Which 1/4 Scale WW1 Kit to Choose?

[payneib]

I was supposed to be making this purchase early next year, but a change in circumstances is making it more likely to be much sooner. I've had my heart set on a 1/4 scale Mick Reeves Camel for a while now, but there's a few details about that kit that are making me second guess the choice. Apparently it's pretty much perfect scale, with lots of self formed, soldered wire components - something I'm famously terrible at. So I'm open to other options. In order of subject preference, I'd say Camel is top, then DR1, SE5, Airco DH2, Bristol M1, Pup, then Eindecker. There's a BNIB Quadra 30 sat waiting, and will work in any of those at 1/4 scale. 

 

Camels: obviously the MR kit, which is a beautiful full kit with split wings for easier storage. But there's also the BUSA kit - essentially a bigger version of their 1/6 kits which I'm familiar with, and the wire's prebent - would need modification for split wings though. 

 

DR1s: I only know of the BUSA kit and a plan on Sarik. Is the ground handling a problem?

 

SE5s: Loads of these around. BUSA, DB Sport n Scale, Sarik, any pros and cons on any of the kits?

 

DH2s: pretty rare, don't know of any kits. And probably a storage and transport nightmare.

 

M1: Belair/Fighter Aces do a parts/plan pack (between the two of them), but it's still a lot of scratch building. But these and the Eindeckers are probably the most "useable" toy aeroplanes. 

 

Pups: Everwh like the SE5s, but which is best?

 

Eindeckers: I don't know of any in quarter scale. 

[Alan Hilton]

A mate built the mick reeves camel It was a major faf to build and it flew like a brick .I had the db pup which was great to build and flew well ,it’s not all that scale like though .I also had a db se5 which I bought competed ,it flew like brick .A flair dr1 was easy to build and flew well ,except for ground handling ,which was tricky, again not that true to scale 

[martin collins 1]

I have a couple of Flair DR1`s and have found take offs a doddle as long as you are into wind and landings are ok providing you are into wind and landing on the main`s not trying to 3 point the landing, also it helps with a very low tick over or use an ignition cut off switch to keep the landing run short to avoid the two wheel hop that will put it on it`s nose. 

[David Davis]

payneib pm sent.

[martin collins 1]

How about the DB Neiuport?  https://www.dbsportandscale.com/nieuport-24-7778-p.asp

[martin collins 1]

How about this Eindekker kit, https://hangaronekits.com/products/fokker-e-iii-eindecker-100-120-size-laser-cut-short-kit?variant=12232615919704

 

They do a full kit as well.

Edited July 4 by martin collins 1

[2.4g Shaun]

The Bristol M1 is a great plane. Only one wing to build, simple rigging with good ground handling and in-flight manners. 

It should have been the Spitfire of WW1 but with  resistance to monoplanes at the time it never was able to show it's true potential. There also some interesting colour schemes.

 

Shaun.

[Andy Stephenson]

I just spotted this 1/4 Scale TigerMoth on APOB...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305651942438?itmmeta=01J1Z15K5DETXXGFD84T0TY6D0&hash=item472a468426:g:7D8AAOSw3SBmhDp2

[Basil]

Shaun, what sort of wing profile has the Bristol.Hope the underside is not negative.

Bas

[2.4g Shaun]

I've have a Mick Reeves 1/3rd scale well on the way to being finished. There is a slight under camber (about 3/16") but it isn't a problem when covering. I coat the ribs with a fabric glue ( looks like PVA) and when the  covering is ironed on to the ribs it holds fast when shrinking. 

Not sure about the wing section of other manufacturers.

Seagull do a nice 71" span 1/5th scale ARTF M1. I've seen them offered at a reasonable price second hand. 

 

Shaun.

[dave parnham]

Balsa usa do an Eindecker 90 which presumably refers to 90FS its an 80 inch wingspan and alot of builders put 20cc DLe petrols in them which obviously doesnt sound right but fly very reliably. I have a half built one in the Ops Room which i must get finished.

[Jon H]

I have a reeves 1/4 pup too build as well as a DB 1/4 Pup. The DB is essentially a larger flair type model and i have no concerns. The reeves is another story. 

 

I bought it off a chap who was selling as he knew he would never build it. During the chat he revealed that this would be his 3rd and this would be the one het actually got right having practiced on the other 2 3 year builds. Having taken a look at the kit it is a daunting prospect given the non existent instructions and excessively complicated construction. 

 

In any event i am yet to decide which route to go when it comes to scratching my 1/4 pup itch so both kits remain in stock for future adventure. 

 

If you are looking for a functional club model and not a championship winning example i would go for the busa camel and just get on with it. I would ditch the non scale undercarriage, but that is a minor mod in real terms. I have been able to check out a few busa camels as i had some customers pop in with their fuselages and bits for engine fitting advice and it certainly looks like a decent enough kit. 

 

I would not worry about making it split wing either. I have loads of wings of that size and they are no bother for storage or transport in a golf/focus/astra size car. 

[Don Fry]

I reckon, being non technical, a Mick Reeves kit is a total pain. Worth it if you have the skill, and a 1000 hours to spare.

Easier, there are sites where you can fake it from 10 meters away when it’s moving.

Not quite so sure about split wings. They do give you a chance to fit and remove the right and left pairs fully rigged. Famous builder once said the average witness looks at the area round the cowl, back to the cockpit. And on a bipe, the rigging. 

[Jon H]

I would argue that two sets of rigged half wings are far more challenging to store and transport than two long but thin single piece wings. 

 

As for the rest i agree. I always aim for looks good in the air as much scale detail is invisible more than 10 feet away. 

[GrumpyGnome]

Given flying time is limited, as is space in ther car, I'd go for something easily rigged, and that will fit and leave space for one or more kids and/or one or more additional models. Probably means Eindecker or post-WW1......

[Jon H]

I believe the busa models do not require rigging. Just bolt the wings on and go, any rigging is decorative only. The DB and Reeves certainly need their rigging if you want the wings to stay on. 

 

When i comes to space in the car i can fit 3 80 inch wings, a 1/4 stampe fuselage and 5th scale warbird fuselage, one girlfriend (when i had one!), all my flying gear, tent, BBQ and all connected junk for a weekend camping at wings and wheels, and a 70 odd inch sport model in the previously mentioned golf/astra/focus size car so it should not be a big issue getting it to the patch. 

[GrumpyGnome]

May have to go in a Fiesta with two small boys and their stuff...... just a consideration. I don't have anything that large (model not car) so it's all theoretical re size.

 

Rigging-wise, I've heard the op swearing at his small Pup 🙂

[Geoff S]

If a bipe doesn't need working rigging, then you can simulate it with quickly attached elastic thread and retain the look.  My smaller scale  DB Cirrus/Gipsy Moth looks reasonably OK even with one flying wire missing 🙂.

 

Edited July 5 by Geoff S
spelling, as usual!

[payneib]

1 hour ago, GrumpyGnome said:

May have to go in a Fiesta with two small boys and their stuff...... just a consideration. I don't have anything that large (model not car) so it's all theoretical re size.

 

Rigging-wise, I've heard the op swearing at his small Pup 🙂

I don't swear at the Pup! I do laugh though when you've packed up, gone home, emptied the car, and come back to walk the dog, all whilst I'm still undoing wings. 

 

This'll be a job for either the wife's Kuga or what ever replaces the fiesta, hopefully in Jan/Feb.

[payneib]

1 hour ago, Jon H said:

I believe the busa models do not require rigging. Just bolt the wings on and go, any rigging is decorative only. The DB and Reeves certainly need their rigging if you want the wings to stay on. 

 

When i comes to space in the car i can fit 3 80 inch wings, a 1/4 stampe fuselage and 5th scale warbird fuselage, one girlfriend (when i had one!), all my flying gear, tent, BBQ and all connected junk for a weekend camping at wings and wheels, and a 70 odd inch sport model in the previously mentioned golf/astra/focus size car so it should not be a big issue getting it to the patch. 

The only thing that puts me off the BUSA kits is undoing the rear U/C mounts to fit/remove the lower wing. It's just about manageable at the field in 1/6, but a big 1/4 bird is going to be a nightmare. If my club had tables it'd be easier, but alas, I'm generally rolling around on the floor. 

 

Rigging will be fitted, functional or not. That would be a lot easier on the monoplanes though. 

[Jonathan W]

Where in UK or Europe do you buy a Balsa USA kit though? Pegasus Models in Norwich stopped selling them quite a while ago.

[payneib]

6 minutes ago, Jonathan W said:

Where in UK or Europe do you buy a Balsa USA kit though? Pegasus Models in Norwich stopped selling them quite a while ago.

I found an eBay seller based somewhere near Chicago, who "accidentally" fudged the package value a bit to avoid "dat gadumb govment overreach" (taxes) when I ordered my 1/6. Kit+£60pnp, delivered to my door was less than the going rate (£250) for a BNIB Flair kit that I'd have had to have driven cross country for.

Edited July 5 by payneib

[Jon H]

5 minutes ago, Jonathan W said:

Where in UK or Europe do you buy a Balsa USA kit though? Pegasus Models in Norwich stopped selling them quite a while ago.

 

Oh really? i know they never seemed to have stock but didnt realise they abandoned them entirely. 

 

I have a 6th scale busa pup to build and was under the impression that it would fit in the car in one piece. My Flair nieuport is he same size and it fits without any trouble. 

 

Still, you wont be getting a 1/4 in unless you own a transit van. 

 

When it comes to the undercarriage that is just the nature of the beast unless you have a split wing setup. It should not be a big problem though as the model should sit inverted on its struts giving access to the hardware. While i dont have to remove the gear i do flip my 1/4 stampe over in this way to get the bottom wing off. Its not a ig deal, despite my stampe needing 14 screws tending to each time i rig or de rig it. Takes about 5-10 minutes...not a huge problem but when i build another i will make some changes to reduce the count. 

[payneib]

The problem I have is everywhere aft the cockpit box is very fragile. The aft turtle deck is very skinny stringers. As long as I only touch the ply box front end, it's golden, but I've had more than one slip, trip and tumble on our less than even field and rested it on the tail, or handled the wrong bit and ended up with very minor repairs. 

 

Other than that though, the easily removed lower wing does make for fantastic servicing access without building in a hatch. If I did convert to split wing on a BUSA kit, I'd leave that centre section on the supplied wing bolts and dowels.

[Yaho]

If soldering isn’t your thing, you might want to go with the BUSA Camel instead of the MR kit. It’s easier to work with and less fiddly, which might save you some headaches. I had a similar issue with a detailed kit a while back, and switching to a simpler version made a big difference for me.

For the DR1, I’ve heard the BUSA kit’s ground handling can be a bit tricky, so just be prepared for that. As for SE5s, there are tons of options out there, so you’ll find something that fits your needs.

The DH2 and M1 are cool, but they’re a bit of a logistical nightmare for storage and transport. I’ve had my fair share of struggles with those kinds of models. Pups are similar to SE5s in terms of options, so just check out reviews for the best one. I haven’t seen any Eindeckers in 1/4 scale, so they might be hard to find.