Hoochykins Posted September 17 Share Posted September 17 I'm picking up a SIG Riser 100 kit and just wanted to see if anyone had any tricky parts or tips for the build I should be aware of? It's my third build after a Vintage Model Basic Cub and a SLEC Coyote so I'm still new to building. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted September 18 Share Posted September 18 (edited) A nice easy build for you to gain some experience. Quite straightforward - just be very careful to build the flying surfaces absolutely true, very easy to introduce warps on such a light structure and also take care with getting everything rigged square by measurement. Building the wings as shown in the video isn't a brilliant idea. Can't beat a decent building board. The airbrakes can be a bit tricky to get to work well. The kit instructions advise their fitting and actuation by a snake but as I've found in the past using torque rods or pull cords etc to a fuselage mounted servo is not a good solution. Consider wing mounted mini servos fitted under the airbrake blades to operate them directly. Easy enough to come up with something. The guy in the video made me laugh when he was moaning about the absurdity (as he found it) of the imperial system. This might also be of use https://www.fly-ads.co.uk/models/riser.php Good luck with the build, I'm sure that if you do run in to trouble there'll be plenty of help to draw on. Edited September 18 by Cuban8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted September 18 Share Posted September 18 (edited) I forgot to add...... The video shows the model being flown from a slope in gentle conditions - if you intend to fly the model as a flat field thermaller, then the wings will not take the forces of a strong bungee launch especially on a breezy day. If you'll only be bungee or towline launching, I'd consider strengthening the wing spar structure a bit by upping the spar size and fully webbing it as well IMHO. Opinions will differ, but I never ever had a wing failure on any of my gliders back in the day. All depends on how you'll be using the model of course. Good luck with the build, I'm sure that if you do run in to trouble there'll be plenty of help to draw on. https://www.fly-ads.co.uk/models/riser.php SIG models were really well designed and manufactured and had a few quirky points about them that made them a bit different - I have one of their Zlin 526s and it was a lovely build although you had to balsa sheet the foam core wings yourself which actually turned out to be far easier that I expected providing you cut the foam core waste outers and used then as jigs.....not the way the instructions told you. Stlll flying the model today. Edited September 18 by Cuban8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted September 18 Share Posted September 18 Agree with C8 Sig kits are nice, mine came with a good build manual, get it straight is all I would say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoochykins Posted September 18 Author Share Posted September 18 Perfect, thanks guys. I'll take a look at going direct with the servos in the wings. I've seen some people mention the fuse is a bit weak and to brace it. I wasn't planning on using a bungee, it's going to be primarily a slope soarer but I may look at 3D printing a motor pod in the future (probably not though) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoochykins Posted September 23 Author Share Posted September 23 I have been looking at different options for the spoilers but as a novice builder and never having built spoilers into a model (or own any balsa models with spoilers) I'm not sure what the best method is. I want to install the servos in the wing and I will use the tubes or slightly larger tubes to run the cables through (as I like the look of these in the wing with coloured transparent covering) but I don't know if I should go through the extra effort to use a rod from the servo to the spoiler OR if I should use the servo arm as the mechanism for raising the spoiler directly without any rods? Are there any other better options I haven't seen? Also, I think I will use a small spring to pull the spoiler back down but I have seen people use small magnets to hold the spoiler closed, does either method have any negatives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoochykins Posted September 24 Author Share Posted September 24 After a while of looking at various different types of linkage or magnets/springs/elastic bands I've found this and it does everything really simply: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=46473223&postcount=2395 Has anyone else done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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