Warbird Replica Bf 110 Hints and Tips.

[Ron Gray]

What and compete with Toto? 🤣

[Learner]

5 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

What and compete with Toto? 🤣

You'll need a film crew 😉

[Ron Gray]

To be fair mine isn't a 'mancave' and is an existing building. 

 

I'll tell you what I'll do, as my YouTube channel has been quiet for some time now (due to the above, no not Toto's mancave experience) I really need to explain why and to prepare followers for the upcoming build series, which is already shaping up to be quite large! So I'll nip out there now and post a vid showing what it's like midway through the re-org and explain my thoughts on what I plan to do.

[Chris Walby]

Right Ho its time to make a start and apologies for the back track!

 

 

So just to clarify "Eddie the Eel" goes in the slot and we need to adjust the two vertical spines for the width of the eel or am I fishing in the wrong pond?

 

[Chris Walby]

And while I am at it, regarding the rudder servo option. Ron could you please post a photo or diagram as to what you did?

 

I'll sit down tonight and mock up the control rods and bell crank arrangement, but I assumed you had done away with the bell crank completely?

 

 

[Eric Robson]

On 05/11/2024 at 15:30, Chris Walby said:

Right Ho its time to make a start and apologies for the back track!

 

 

So just to clarify "Eddie the Eel" goes in the slot and we need to adjust the two vertical spines for the width of the eel or am I fishing in the wrong pond?

 

This is how I done mine Chris,  with a needle file. 

[Chris Walby]

Thanks Eric, do you have any photos of how you have assembled the linkage and bell crank assembly? 

[Eric Robson]

2 minutes ago, Chris Walby said:

Thanks Eric, do you have any photos of how you have assembled the linkage and bell crank assembly? 

I haven't done that yet Chris, The bottom sheet is not on the tailplane as I am thinking of replacing the Bell crank with a servo. Sequence of assembly is this,part build wing to fit fuselage,  the fuselage is part built front former not fitted so wing dowls can be drilled  through F2, don't fit rear deck till wing bolts are drilled lining up through captive nuts. Fit and shape rear upper deck confirm tailplane position and check possible fitting of central servo.

Not a lot done today, flying and preparing planes for tomorrow. 

[Eric Robson]

Marking the wing bolt position will be easy without the top deck 

[Ron Gray]

@Chris Walbyif you go back to this thread and start at page 50

 

 

[Chris Walby]

Thanks Ron, That answers the Rudder and the elevator questions all in one go.

[Eric Robson]

42 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

@Chris Walbyif you go back to this thread and start at page 50

 

 

That's exactly what I had in mind for mine, I will be using a Hitec HS 81.

[Eric Robson]

Wings cut and joined, my original plan was ailerons only but following Richard's recommendation I will fit flaps. Normally the wind is All the flap needed on our site. Using my usual crude but effective clamping method of holding the wings together while the 30min epoxy sets overnight. I do use a big clamp at the rear also.

[payneib]

When I glue foam core wings together I cut two pieces of ply in to the joint, as front and rear spars (not massive, maybe 6" each, from top to bottom skin). I glue one in to each side of the joint first, let it cure, and that generally gives me a good friction fit on the wing joint once it's all slotted together and the main joint cures. 

[Ron Gray]

Defo flaps Eric.

 

I now use Gorilla Glue Brown (expanding type) for foam wing joins, I find that the fact that it can expand into those foam air pockets gives a really strong joint.

[Ron Gray]

Regarding the flaps, I housed the servo in the nacelles with a pushrod to the flap horn which was hidden in the rear portion of the nacelle.

 

[Eric Robson]

When assembling the fuselage sides I would advise leaving the lower 12.5x12.5 strips off till the wing is positioned and the dowel holes drilled in the wing. I didn’t and found it awkward to mark up 

[Eric Robson]

My  kit is short of some fittings, one being the push rod for the elevator and the threaded rods for the ends. Having a length of 3/16" spruce I used that, some dowel from BandQ would do the same job or a snake. I had some threaded rods and made up the push rod,feeding it out through the side below the tailplane.

Ron Gray made his internal on his original Me110 and I  imagine he will do this on his new one, video coming soon, I think!

If choosing to use the push rod it is best done before the front and bottom is fitted. Alternatively a servo could be used at the rear similar to the modern foamie practice. I have used an internal servo for the rudder instead of the bellcrank, I am not keen on servos sticking out of the side, practical as it may be.

[RICHARD WILLS]

I spoke to Phill the kit cutter about elevator controls . 

In a nutshell he said that to keep the price at £100 less than our competitors , something had to go . 

So I'm afraid that you will all have to come up with your own methods for operating the elevators.

I'm not sure that a small servo in the tail might be lighter than a 2 foot pushrod or snake anyway . 

 

[Eric Robson]

Fair comment Richard, 

There is a lot in the kit for the money compared with some of the part kits on the market. It is good to get something made in this country and not in the far East 

[payneib]

I usually end up binning most of the hardware in kits anyway. I'll be back down MKM topping up my dowl supplies for this. 🤷‍♂️

[Ron Gray]

2 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

I'm not sure that a small servo in the tail might be lighter than a 2 foot pushrod or snake anyway

Obvs depends on the servo but I weighed up both options (snake) and the mini servo was lighter.

[Nigel Dell]

8 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

I spoke to Phill the kit cutter about elevator controls . 

In a nutshell he said that to keep the price at £100 less than our competitors , something had to go . 

So I'm afraid that you will all have to come up with your own methods for operating the elevators.

I'm not sure that a small servo in the tail might be lighter than a 2 foot pushrod or snake anyway . 

 

Phil’s quality is always top notch and value for money.

[Chris Walby]

17 hours ago, payneib said:

I usually end up binning most of the hardware in kits anyway. I'll be back down MKM topping up my dowl supplies for this. 🤷‍♂️

Richard,

Seems like people either bin the hardware or deviate from plan to suit themselves. Perhaps just supply the wood pack/plastic parts and just let people do their own thing. Its pointless and costly to supply parts that people don't use, everything else can be an extra like UC, decals, motors, props, spinners, hardware kit etc if people want them then add them to their order?

 

Is it not what Sarik, SLEC and others do? Then the kits "appear" cheaper and the modeller can add the expensive items themselves to their own precise standards. The build threads will show how each model has been "adjusted" to suit its owner.

 

 

[Eric Robson]

This is fine for those of us who build regular and keep a stock of consumables. Some who are just starting on building may find it annoying to have to source what they need as the demise of the local model shop means mail order. Not really a problem with Model fixings mostly giving next day delivery and SLEC stocking most things needed along with other suppliers,  Google brings the information to your home. 

As you say an accessory pack as an optional extra is a good option, alternatively a list of consumables would be helpful