Martin John Painter Posted November 10, 2024 Share Posted November 10, 2024 How about a starting a Winter Build in your club; here is a PDF with an idea: https://t.ly/fEjgc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted November 10, 2024 Share Posted November 10, 2024 Welcome Martin. You might find a lot of people wary of clicking on an unknown link so better to outline your ideas here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin John Painter Posted November 10, 2024 Author Share Posted November 10, 2024 The History of the Winter Build A club, of which I am a member, hosted a BMFA Electric Fly-in, which was well attended, with modellers bringing an eclectic selection of electric models. One of these modellers was Mark Agate, who brought along a Mini Blitz, built from the free plan in RCM&E magazine from November 1995. The model was originally designed around a Cox 0.49 glow engine. Mark has converted his, very successfully, to electric power. When chatting to Mark he said that this model was the subject of his club’s winter build. My club, to my knowledge, had not previously organised a winter build competition; I approached the committee, they were onboard, and the rest is history, so to speak. Back in 2022 we built the Mini Blitz, in 2023 we built the Sticky, also from a free plan in RCM&E magazine from January 2018. The idea behind the winter build is to encourage modellers to get back into building, or in many cases, have a go at balsa bashing for the first time. Success is measured by the number of members who have a go. The 2024 Winter Build Model I am particularly proud of the subject that I have chosen. Most modellers have owned a Chris Foss Design’s model at some stage of their modelling life, I know I have had a few. You may have learnt to fly on an Uno-Wot or a Wot-Trainer, then progressed to a Wot 4 (high-wing), an Acro-Wot (low-wing) or even the Wots-Wot (biplane). Most modellers I have spoken to were not aware that Chris also designed a mid-wing power model. I thought I knew of most of the Chris Foss Designs models, but I had never heard of the Wot Knot (mid-wing). This was never kitted; it was only available as a plan. Chris designed the Wot Knot in about the mid-seventies, before the first Wot 4, which came along in the late seventies. The first Wot 4 was a plan only, then Chris started producing kits of the Wot 4 Mk2 around 1980. The Winter Build Competition The first task is to elect a Winter Build Coordinator; they need to be someone with reasonable computer skills. The main competition is around the building, covering and finishing of the model. The committee can organise other, flying competitions, suited to the model, throughout the year. The entrees need to build and cover their models and email a picture, or two, of the model to the coordinator by a cut-off date (e.g. the end of April). If my experience is anything to go by, these will arrive imbedded in an email, attached to an email, via WhatsApp or I have been asked to take the pictures myself. Once all the entries are in, the images need to be collated and numbered. The coordinator will nominate someone, who is not entering the competition, they do not have to be in the club; their job is to judge their favourite three models, from the numbered pictures, for the first, second and third places in the competition. Model Details The Wot Knot is a Chris Foss Designs fully aerobatic model: · Motor: .19 to .40 cubic inch engines (6.5cc) or an electric setup · Wingspan: 46” · Spinner: 2” · Main Wheels: 2 ¼” · Tail Wheel: 1” Getting a Plan / Kit Plans are available from Chris Foss Designs directly: https://www.chrisfoss.co.uk/. I sent Chris a cheque payable to “Chris Foss Designs” for £20 and received by plan about a week later. Chris Foss Designs Unit 1 Freehold Street Shoreham by Sea West Sussex BN43 5TQ Chris has confirmed that it a few members club together to have multiple plans send to a single address, then he can reduce the postage costs. The plan shows a built-up wing, which will definitely be the lightest option. If you do not fancy tackling a built-up wing, or prefer using foam cores, which will be make a tougher more durable model, then I have organised them to be available as on option. The model needs a clear canopy; these can be vacuum formed over a mould; these are also available as an option. Where to Source Parts Future Crafts: https://www.futurecrafts.uk/ · Laser cut wing ribs: £14.00 · Laser cut ply formers: £15.00 · Laser cut fuselage sides: £16.00 · Laser cut tail, elevator, fin and rudder: £13.00 · All of the above: £55.00 Vortex Vac Forms: http://www.vortex-vacforms.co.uk/ · Canopy (CN60 - North American P51 Mustang): £12.00 Cloud Models: https://www.cloudmodels.co.uk/ · Foam veneered wing panels only: £42.00 plus £7.00 p&p. · Wing kit comprising foam veneered panels plus wood leading edge, trailing edge, tips, ailerons and wing joining tape: £53.00 plus £7.00 p&p. How to Power the Model Electric Setup: 4-Max The Fixed Wing Electric Flight Specialists: https://www.4-max.co.uk/ 3S setup should provide around 3.9lbs of static thrust with an estimated top speed of around 57mph · Motor: PO-3547-960 £35.99 · ESC: 4M-HESC50AV2 £45.95 · Programming Box: 4MHV2-PROGBOX £11.99 · Propeller: JXF 11x7 £9.68 · LiPo Battery: PPL-60C3S-2200 £23.50 4S setup should provide around 4.8lbs of static thrust with an estimated top speed of around 62mph. · Motor: PO-3547-800 £35.99 · ESC: 4M-HESC50AV2 £45.95 · Programming Box: 4MHV2-PROGBOX £11.99 · Propeller: JXF 11x7 £9.68 · LiPo Battery; PPL-60C4S-2200 £33.50 Glow Motor: OS Engines MAX 35AX w/E-3080 Silencer (£184.99) http://www.ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=L-OS13100 O.S. MAX 25FX II with 892 Silencer (£199.99) https://www.ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=L-OS12662 SC SC32A-S 2-Stroke Glow R/C Aero (£86.99) https://www.jperkins.com/products/SCEA032524 SC SC36A-S 2-Stroke Glow R/C Aero (£99.99) https://www.jperkins.com/products/SCEA036590 Controlling the Model The model will need either one or two aileron servos (see the section on change of plan). The model will also need a servo to control the elevator and a servo to control the rudder. If you are using a glow engine, then you will need another servo to control the throttle. If you are going to use electric power, then ESC will replace the throttle servo. I personally think the model would be well suited to mini servo like the Hitec HS-225. These are smaller than standard but still have four mounting screws. Change of Plan: The plan suggests using a system involving two bell-cranks in the wing to operate the ailerons from a single central servo. This will work but could also be replaced by two servos instead of the bell-cranks. This would reduce the possibility of any play in the aileron linkages. The plan shows the undercarriage being held on by two ⅛” aluminium plates; these could be replaced by plastic saddle clamps. With the glow motor installed upright it is not possible to get the centreline of the carburettor lined up with the centreline of the fuel tank. It is possible if the slow motor is rotated ninety degrees. Good luck and happy building… Note: all prices were correct at the time of writing the article. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin John Painter Posted November 10, 2024 Author Share Posted November 10, 2024 Here is is a QR code to dowbload the PDF... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antony R Posted November 11, 2024 Share Posted November 11, 2024 Morning, just tried to order a wot knot kit but PayPal gave me a big red warning that future crafts (even though their address is uk) do not post to my uk address? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Taylor Posted November 11, 2024 Share Posted November 11, 2024 Saw this thread yesterday and thought that it looked like and quacked like a duck. Apologies if I'm mistaken. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 11, 2024 Share Posted November 11, 2024 Perhaps you should read the reasons behind this project on their website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin John Painter Posted November 11, 2024 Author Share Posted November 11, 2024 6 hours ago, Antony R said: Morning, just tried to order a wot knot kit but PayPal gave me a big red warning that future crafts (even though their address is uk) do not post to my uk address? I will ask my mate Glenn (of Future Crafts to investigate). This is all very genuine, I am one of the Weston Park commentators, if that makes you feel any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin John Painter Posted November 11, 2024 Author Share Posted November 11, 2024 3 hours ago, Kim Taylor said: Saw this thread yesterday and thought that it looked like and quacked like a duck. Apologies if I'm mistaken. Kim It is all genuine, please look me up on Facebook, if in doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Taylor Posted November 11, 2024 Share Posted November 11, 2024 As my previous post, please accept my unreserved apology. I wish you well in your efforts. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antony R Posted November 12, 2024 Share Posted November 12, 2024 I've managed to order a kit after Glenn sent me a PayPal invoice so I'm not sure of the issue is fixed or just worked around, looking for to building it though, I bought the plans last year along with some Wot 4 mk1 plans from Chris. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 12, 2024 Share Posted November 12, 2024 The photos of the Wot Knot seem to have disappeared ( Antony's photo is a normal Wot4 high wing while Wot Knot is a mid wing and smaller ) the photos were there yesterday but not now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted November 12, 2024 Share Posted November 12, 2024 I’m guessing that the source linked to has been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin John Painter Posted November 12, 2024 Author Share Posted November 12, 2024 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin John Painter Posted November 12, 2024 Author Share Posted November 12, 2024 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Horne Posted November 24, 2024 Share Posted November 24, 2024 I’m just starting my build and will try and upload pics along the way. if anyone else has any helpful tips or photos that would be useful😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve1506 Posted December 22, 2024 Share Posted December 22, 2024 Just received the laser cut parts and plan on order. Looking forward to the new year to get started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny L Posted December 27, 2024 Share Posted December 27, 2024 Started the build today and have the ribs secured to the trailing edge strips. Next step to glue the spruce strip into the ribs at the front and check all of the angles. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny L Posted December 29, 2024 Share Posted December 29, 2024 (edited) Glueing in the leading edge spruce strip, while trying to ensure the ribs and spruce strip geometry are correct. I’m using super aliphatic on the spruce strip, as taking it out and using normal aliphatic resin was too difficult to maintain proper geometry within glue working time. It was easier to place everything correctly and then wick in glue around the joins. Will use aliphatic resin for the main spars top and bottom.This order of construction is following what little guidance is available from Chris Foss. Edited December 29, 2024 by Jonny L 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny L Posted December 30, 2024 Share Posted December 30, 2024 (edited) Bottom spar in. Bit of a tight fit and needed a touch of sanding. Waiting now for the 1/16th square strips to sit either side of the leading edge spruce strip before I can dismount the wing and fit the top spar (the wing is initially built upside down). Edited December 30, 2024 by Jonny L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny L Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Second spar in, now starting on the vertical webbing. I’m going to diverge from the plan slightly and add a second webbing layer on the front of the spar. Extra strength for very little extra weight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 I don't think there's much need to add interspar webs to both sides of the mainspars. I've never seen (or heard of) a mainspar breakage other than at the join but I usually but the webs in front of the spars to make clamping the L/E sheeting easier - a Peter Miller tip IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Evans 3 Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 If you feel you must add the extra webs then why not just the first 3 bays where the loads are the greatest . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve1506 Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Jonny, Great pics I have now received my plan and waiting for my materials order to arrive to start my build. Are you going to power the model by IC or electric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny L Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 (edited) 2 hours ago, Geoff S said: I don't think there's much need to add interspar webs to both sides of the mainspars. I've never seen (or heard of) a mainspar breakage other than at the join but I usually but the webs in front of the spars to make clamping the L/E sheeting easier - a Peter Miller tip IIRC. Good tip. I’ve done both side of the spar anyway - looking for torsional rigidity rather outright strength to prevent breakage. Feels like an overall benefit with minimal downside. The Chris Foss design has the web on the back of the spar, perhaps this addition with improve the adhesion of the L/E Sheet as well. An unexpected bonus! Edited January 1 by Jonny L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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