Lopez Posted Thursday at 17:15 Author Share Posted Thursday at 17:15 18 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: Make your own bender, I can photograph mine if you want, and only bend it cold,,, OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted Thursday at 17:59 Share Posted Thursday at 17:59 One for springs and the other for bends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Thursday at 18:07 Author Share Posted Thursday at 18:07 On 25/11/2024 at 19:28, Frank Skilbeck said: I used the furry type Hinges, but what you have done looks OK. Let the hinges into the elevator halves to minimise the hinge gap. when you do the elevator halves I found making a template to bend the curved sections around was quite usefull. Good afternoon, it was another idea. I made it out of 5mm plywood with a laser cutting machine. Nothing went wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted Thursday at 18:13 Share Posted Thursday at 18:13 Lots of info on wire bending here in an old article. Bending the 2mm piano wire for the elevator joiner will be easy and dimension is not critical. Just use a vice and hammer. The cabane struts may be thicker wire & need to be accurately bent to ensure wing is level. Undercarriage is also difficult. You could make trial pieces of softer wire before making the real parts from piano wire. The sort of soft wire used for wire clothes hangers is very useful for these experiments ( but useless for the real parts) Read up about "Bend Allowance " before you start. ( I suggest looking for this in your own language.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Thursday at 18:33 Author Share Posted Thursday at 18:33 1 hour ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: Make your own bender, I can photograph mine if you want, and only bend it cold,,, Thank you, the wire in the photo is 4mm because it is a wire and I have not bought it yet and for 3mm is it the same system or do you have something smaller. I will send you a photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted Thursday at 18:53 Share Posted Thursday at 18:53 (edited) The elevator halves joiner doesn't need to be anything special, but for the undercarriage and cabane struts you'll need a wire bender similar to Paul's I borrowed a vice mounted one off a clubmate, a heavier duty one than shown in this video Edited Thursday at 18:54 by Frank Skilbeck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted Thursday at 19:48 Share Posted Thursday at 19:48 The wire elevator joiner is 14 SWG in that photo. 14SWG is 2mm approx The Fokker DV111 like all WW1 biplanes has a very short nose therefore it needs the tail surfaces to be very lightweight to avoid having to put lead in the nose. Using 5mm ply for the curved section of the elevator might mean some extra lead in the nose to balance if it's a lot heavier than the specified laminated balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 12:22 Author Share Posted Friday at 12:22 El 27/11/2024 a las 17:24, kc dijo: La parte articulada está biselada. Las puntas curvas están laminadas a partir de 3 tiras como dice Steve. El 25/11/2024 a las 19:28, Frank Skilbeck dijo: Utilicé bisagras de tipo peludo , pero lo que has hecho parece correcto. Coloca las bisagras en las mitades del elevador para minimizar el espacio entre ellas. Al hacer las mitades del elevador, descubrí que hacer una plantilla para doblar las secciones curvas fue bastante útil. Hace 18 horas, Paul De Tourtoulon dijo: Uno para resortes y otro para curvas. 17 hours ago, kc said: Mucha información sobre el doblado de alambre 17 hours ago, Frank Skilbeck said: El ensamblador de las mitades del elevador no necesita ser nada especial, pero para los puntales del tren de aterrizaje y la cabina necesitarás un doblador de alambre similar al de Paul. Tomé prestado uno montado en un tornillo de banco de un clubmate, uno más resistente que el que se muestra en este video. en un artículo antiguo. Doblar el alambre de piano de 2 mm para el conector del elevador será fácil y la dimensión no es crítica. Solo use un tornillo de banco y un martillo. Los puntales de la cabina pueden ser de alambre más grueso y deben doblarse con precisión para garantizar que el ala esté nivelada. El tren de aterrizaje también es difícil. Puedes hacer piezas de prueba con un alambre más suave antes de hacer las piezas reales con alambre de piano. El tipo de alambre suave que se usa para las perchas de alambre es muy útil para estos experimentos (pero inútil para las piezas reales). Lee sobre "Tolerancia de curvatura" antes de comenzar. (Te sugiero que busques esta información en tu propio idioma). 17 hours ago, Frank Skilbeck said: El ensamblador de las mitades del elevador no necesita ser nada especial, pero para los puntales del tren de aterrizaje y la cabina necesitarás un doblador de alambre similar al de Paul. Tomé prestado uno montado en un tornillo de banco de un clubmate, uno más resistente que el que se muestra en este video. Thank you very much Frank, all this is new for me, I didn't know there were these tools. 17 hours ago, Frank Skilbeck said: El ensamblador de las mitades del elevador no necesita ser nada especial, pero para los puntales del tren de aterrizaje y la cabina necesitarás un doblador de alambre similar al de Paul. Tomé prestado uno montado en un tornillo de banco de un clubmate, uno más resistente que el que se muestra en este video. Thank you very much Frank, all this is new for me, I didn't know there were these tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 12:37 Author Share Posted Friday at 12:37 18 hours ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: Uno para resortes y otro para curvas. Thank you very much for the detail, good information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 12:41 Author Share Posted Friday at 12:41 Thank you very much for the detail, good information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 12:45 Author Share Posted Friday at 12:45 16 hours ago, kc said: The wire elevator joiner is 14 SWG in that photo. 14SWG is 2mm approx The Fokker DV111 like all WW1 biplanes has a very short nose therefore it needs the tail surfaces to be very lightweight to avoid having to put lead in the nose. Using 5mm ply for the curved section of the elevator might mean some extra lead in the nose to balance if it's a lot heavier than the specified laminated balsa. Do you think I have added weight to the tail? Because adding a battery and an electric motor in the nose hurts it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 - Moderator Posted Friday at 15:22 Share Posted Friday at 15:22 Hi Lopez, You may be interested in the "Eric Coats" method of sandwich construction for tail planes and wingtips. Light weight and stiff/resistant to warp. Look up "Free flight scale.co.uk" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted Friday at 16:39 Share Posted Friday at 16:39 3 hours ago, Lopez said: Do you think I have added weight to the tail? Because adding a battery and an electric motor in the nose hurts it. I built the tail surfaces on mine as per the drawing, with an electric motor and 3s 3,000 mah battery just behind the bulkhead it balanced fine with no additional weight required. I don't think the small sections of ply you have used will have added so much weight that you'll need loads at the front. But remember while a nose heavy plane flies poorly a tail heavy one flies once! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 20:04 Author Share Posted Friday at 20:04 3 hours ago, Frank Skilbeck said: I built the tail surfaces on mine as per the drawing, with an electric motor and 3s 3,000 mah battery just behind the bulkhead it balanced fine with no additional weight required. I don't think the small sections of ply you have used will have added so much weight that you'll need loads at the front. But remember while a nose heavy plane flies poorly a tail heavy one flies once! Good advice, I'll follow it. I have many doubts but I will go little by little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 20:04 Author Share Posted Friday at 20:04 Good advice, I'll follow it. I have many doubts but I will go little by little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lopez Posted Friday at 20:06 Author Share Posted Friday at 20:06 4 hours ago, J D 8 - Moderator said: Hi Lopez, You may be interested in the "Eric Coats" method of sandwich construction for tail planes and wingtips. Light weight and stiff/resistant to warp. Look up "Free flight scale.co.uk" Thank you very much for the recommendation, there is a lot of information to read and a lot to learn, JD8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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