Getting grips with my new T161Z super TX

[Adrian Smith 1]

Given the recent poor weather in my neck of the woods I decided to spend hours of fun and frolics getting know my new TX. 

The first irritation is that the hard copy manual is only 35 pages long whereas the online one is 245 pages! That's fair enough if you want to read it on the desk top PC, but it's impossible to read off my mobile phone (at the field may be). 

 

The first task was to start transferring the model memories from one TX to the other. There is a helpful YouTube video on this forum that makes it clear how to do it, although the presenter speaks rather quickly. 

The next hiccup is that the SD card for the T14SG is the standard size while the card for the T16 is a microSD. Much scrabbling around in my office draw before I found a microSD card adaptor. As can be seen from the picture the Pilot Slick was transferred successfully with the correct trim positions. I did wonder about having to rebind the RX, but looking into the new TX, it had picked it up automatically. Very good so far although it was helpful using the T14SG for some years (since 2016) as some of the key strokes are simple to repeat. I am going to the workshop tomorrow to test the TX out in a live situation to make sure all is correct with the Pilot Slick. 

 

I have bought a couple of Futaba Telemetry modules (altitude and power pack monitor) although I haven't even got into them to fit. More fun to be had there I am sure.

As such there is no dedicated charger supplied for the TX only a lead with a USB socket one end and another type of socket that fits into TX

 

Not a problem although the TX end of the lead appears to be a tight fit. 

There is lots to get into and if anything interesting crops up I will post here.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Good luck with it, I am still with my FX-30 and it is still going strong since 2009, and I am 'shivering' to what I can replace it with when it

eventually gives up the ghost, with 40 + planes and still around 10 on the 41.000mhz frequencies, it will be an expensive changeover.,,,

[Adrian Smith 1]

I find the best action is to confront fear full on, Paul. 

That is easier said than done I know, but as a "silver surfer" it's the only way I can confront tech. That's not to say I haven't come unstuck in trying to remember what I have done and to unwind an error! 🤔 

[Peter Jenkins]

Well done Adrian. 

 

Incidentally, you might like to look at the SM Modelbau UnisensE sensor.  This provides from one small sensor package: V, A, height, Vario, capacity, rpm etc.  The sensor can be set up to speak to most Txs including Futaba.  I've used it with my JR and now with my JETI.  You will find an English language translation here.  SMB also do a range of other sensors but I've never used any other than the UnisensE and I can thoroughly recommend it.  For the price, it takes some beating and, provided you buy the USB interface, you can both set up and update the firmware using the freely downloadable software.

[Adrian Smith 1]

I had a look at my 5 flyable aircraft to see if all looked as I expected with new TX.

 

The one thing which I suppose is obvious now I think of it, is that while each model memory had retained the RX code number in the TX, I still had to link each aircraft again in turn. No problem there and all fixed there now. One thing I am going to have spend some time and that is the Altitude/Vario Telemetry unit. Sadly the hard copy TX starter manual has nothing to say on it and the sheet that came with the module doesn't really tell you much. I had to come home and refer to the main manual on line with the hope all will be revealed.

Anyway the module connected to the RX fine and green light all lit up.

 

Before I came home I did try and go through the Telemetry menu on the TX, but I didn't get very far and I didn't want to bash on without knowing what I was doing.

 

I am curious about the "Speech" button on the bottom left hand side, as after I pressed "off" is opened a window showing all the TX switches and their identifying letters. I came out of it as I didn't quite see how that worked unless the speech on/off is done through an assigned switch. Mmmmmmmm ...... definitely a look at the manual is required. I am wondering whether I can just print the sections I need to refer to rather than waste a ton of ink/paper doing the whole think. More on that later unless of course you guys know better. Essentially I want to hear any Altitude warnings and whether this can be shown on the front screen too.

[Philip Lewis 3]

35 minutes ago, Adrian Smith 1 said:

I am wondering whether I can just print the sections I need to refer to rather than waste a ton of ink/paper doing the whole think. More on that later unless of course you guys know better. 

 

If you can post a link to the manual I'll take a look for you, if it's in pdf format you should be able to print out the pages you want but you won't be able to split the file up but if that is what you want then only print what you want then I can do that for you, you need pdf writer rather than just reader to do that.

[Peter Jenkins]

Well done Adrian.  Have you tried looking on YouTube for TS 161Z tutorials?  There are bound to be quite a few that might answer your questikns without reading the on-line manual.

 

For Jeti, there are loads of videos and they are pretty helpful.  Check out this link and just scroll down the list of videos.

 

Peter

Edited January 6 by Peter Jenkins

[Adrian Smith 1]

Thanks Philip, Peter. You guys are really making it easy for me. 

Here is the link Philip.

 

https://d3if9wubzr0anm.cloudfront.net/futaba.uk/manuals/T16iZS_ENG_Full_Letter-Size.pdf

 

I looked at the options on my Mac, is the only one I can use is to save the web link in my reading list. I can't physically download into the downloads file.

The videos link you have highlighted for me Peter, look interesting and I need to get into them. 

I did look at at one video earlier that mentions the Telemetry module needs to be registered by attaching a y-lead to the rear of the TX with one attached to "a battery" and the other to the module. There is nothing about that in the online manual strangely.

It goes without saying a big thank you to you both for helping me progress. 😀

[Adrian Smith 1]

Philip, I have just opened the online manual in "Preview" and it has allowed me to download in my documents in PDF format.

[Ariel]

Open the page you linked to in Safari on Mac.

Then File > Export as PDF 

Choose where you want to save it.

Remember the location !

Open Acrobat Reader

File > Open > Navigate to where you saved it and away you go.

 

You can save and rename it if you really want to. Choose File> Save As in Acrobat and call it what you like.

You don't really have to do the last bit but I always forget where I left stuff so I Save things to the 'Desktop' if I'm using a File often.

 

 

Edited January 6 by Ariel

[Philip Lewis 3]

2 hours ago, Adrian Smith 1 said:

Philip, I have just opened the online manual in "Preview" and it has allowed me to download in my documents in PDF format.

If you now open it in adobe acrobat reader and go to file then print you can print whatever selection of pages you want.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Firstly, I decided to download the manual and converted it to PDF format there I don't need to use to internet every time. Not always helpful as you will see.

After a couple of false starts in getting my Altitude module to work and speak to me I have now cracked it.

Firstly, despite what the manual says (registering the module is automatic when plugged into the RX SBUS socket) the plain fact of the matter I had to register the module. This is done by plugging the module into the socket at the rear of the TX and turning on. No other power source required despite what some online videos show. Then go the the LINKAGE menu and select SENSOR on page 1. Once into SENSOR go the page 3 and press the REGISTER button. That done and after scrolling back to the SENSOR page it shows you the registration number under ALTITUDE in the list of options. After going back to the LINKAGE menu I selected TELEMETRY clicked on ALTITUDE sensor to set all my parameters. Once you change to communication option and select SPEECH another window appears for you to assign a switch, in my case SD. It's up to the user which way to be on or off using the SET option . All done. When activating the switch the TX told me speech was on and that I was standing at 0 feet!!. Bit like pulling teeth but at least I have done it. Two things of note. It takes up to 20 seconds for the module to change the red light to green (operational) once the RX is fired up. The other thing I now do when experimenting with the TX is to use an eraser tipped pencil to reduce the grease from sticky fingers on the screen. The transparent screen cover that came with the TX was discarded as it was a pain. 👍

[Peter Jenkins]

Well done.  Like everything, easy when you know how!  Biggest problem is forgetting what you did so that the next time it's like starting from scratch - almost.  I write down the process and put an insert in the Tx manual.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Thanks, Peter. I have done just as you have and written the process down and kept it with the manual. I am glad to say the transfer of model memories from T14SG to the new TX was faultless. The other observation is the assignment of switches is very straightforward in the new TX compared to the T14SG.

More fun and exploration to be had.😀

[Peter Jenkins]

One thing I did find with the Jeti was that you can buy additional switches (2 position, 3 position, long, short, spring loaded, locking etc) and they are very easy to replace as they just need to be unscrewed (special tool needed) and unplugged and the new one plugged in and screwed into place.  That having been said, the switches don't feel as silky smooth as those on the JR.  Does Futaba provide for that?

[David perry 1]

I’ve got this and after the FF9 it’s a pain.  The throttle and elevator trims are ergonomically badly placed. The menu is absurd. 

 

i keep thinking of ditching it but I soldier on hoping to become as familiar with its peculiarities as I was with my lovely FF9s 

 

thank heavens it doesn’t speak to me. My son uses taranis and the damned thing never shuts its mouth. 

[Adrian Smith 1]

Not to my knowledge, Peter but I am happy to be proved wrong. The 8 basic switches on the Futaba TX is enough for me. It would be just my luck the throw the wrong switch. I just try to keep it simple. 

David. Fortunately the Futaba can have its mouth turned off  (time will tell) or I can just plug the earpiece in so as not to disturb the flight line with only me hearing it. 

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Yes Peter, Futaba FG-30/ Tg12, switches ere easy to change over or replace, a small 3 pin F/m white plug and a tube spanner to unscrew them.

[Peter Jenkins]

Good to know Paul.  Same as the Jeti then.

 

Adrian, although there are 4 switches on each side of both the JR and Jeti Tx, the JR had all 3 position switches bar one 2 position switch.  The Jeti came with mostly 2 position switches.  I only use 3 switches on the left side and one on the right hand side.  I use colour plastic sleeves to denote their function.  Red is the Kill switch, with blue being flight modes, black being the ground handling and yellow the mixes.  As it happens, I had been thinking of incorporating the downline mix switch into the main flight mode switch and now I've also moved the KE mix switch to the aero flight mode switch as I've now sorted out that mix so the yellow switch is now redundant.  The photo below shows what I mean.

 

Oh, I do use one of the rotary switches to adjust the volume of the alarms/voices from the Tx.  Low at home and turned up at the field.  The only spoken "guidance" is the lady announcing the time to run every minute.  I found that a bit distracting to begin with but quite like it now.  I will set a capacity alarm at 3,500 mAh used and a final one at 3,800 mAh used - I'm using a mix of 4,800, 5,000 and 5,200 mAh packs.  If all goes well, I use between 2,900 and 3,300 mAh per flight.

 

[Adrian Smith 1]

I like the idea of colour coded sleeves, Peter (as long as I remember what they are for!). Now I have got the hang of telemetry I am going to invest in a power pack monitoring module. The RX voltage is already shown on the opening screen when the RX is powered up so I don't think I need to do any more with that. The volume on the 16IZ is also adjusted by rotary switches on the front of the TX too.

[Peter Jenkins]

Hi Adrian

 

I can't remember if I  pointed you at the SM Modelbau UnisensE package.  That takes a lot of beating given its price and what it covers.

 

You get:  RPM, drive voltage, drive current, drive power (OK that's just multiplying the first two together), capacity remaining (you have to enter the flight pack capacity for that to work properly but you can do that on your Tx), height, and rate of climb/descent for gliders.  Not bad for around Euro 65.90 plus postage.  I would have thought it shouldn't get caught by the VAT/duty police for that amount.  There is a small utililty program to download to your PC that allows you to upgrade the firmware and set up the UnisensE.  It worked fine on my JR and even better on the Jeti as the Jeti records all the data in the Tx and you can review it after landing and shutting down.  With JR, you only got max/min and real time.  I expect your Futaba will be like the Jeti but I don't know.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Yes you did point me in the direction, Peter. 

I thought I would master the Futaba basics first and maybe move a step further later on. 

Edited January 27 by Adrian Smith 1

[Adrian Smith 1]

Next question I need to ask you good people, as I am toying with idea of adding SBS-01C sensor to monitor current, voltage of the drive battery. The wiring diagram is straight forward enough and I am sure I am able set up the TX with the parameters after the installation. 

However, the sensor + & - wires are connected to the ESC wires (along with a fuse). I am just wondering what the best way to connect them to an existing drive wire loom.

 

To me the obvious answer is to unsolder the connector plug to the power battery and somehow splice the sensor wires into the connector when re-soldering. 

Anybody else done this? Any better ideas gratefully accepted 😀

[Philip Lewis 3]

If it were me I would make it up as a seperate stand alone wiring harnes with your chosen male and female plugs each end and splice the voltage wires into that.

 

That way you will be able to insert it beween the esc plug and batery plug and therefore simply and easily be able to move it from one plane to another, simples.

Edited January 28 by Philip Lewis 3
Spelling

[Adrian Smith 1]

Yup, Philip I think that way is eminently sensible. The soldering aspect shouldn't be a problem for me 👍