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J Perkins tissue...yuk


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Found some nice colours of Perkins tissue a few weeks back and decided to use some today.  Ouch!  No wet strength and the dye comes off with dope!  Awful stuff.

 

I usually buy high wet strength white from hobby stores or coloured from Mike Woodhouse, this Perkins was a trial really.  And what a trial it is!

 

Oh well, all looks that same at 100ft

 

D

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I tried some a few years ago and was also less than impressed. 

I've recently become a bit of a fan of EZE Tissue.  It's got excellent wet strength and bright colours.  The downside is that the coloured tissue also isn't compatible with cellulose dope.  I've used it on it's own using EZE Dope, and also over Doculam, applied with Wilco satin varnish.

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1 hour ago, John T said:

I've recently become a bit of a fan of EZE Tissue.  It's got excellent wet strength and bright colours.  The downside is that the coloured tissue also isn't compatible with cellulose dope. 

 

There is an advertorial in this month's (March 2025) Aeromodeller where John Bristow from Deluxe Materials describes a method of using cellulose dope with coloured EZE tissue. The gist of it is to apply the tissue wet using tissue paste and then spray thinned cellulose dope using an airbrush. Once dry further coats of dope can be applied with a brush or spray with 'careful handling'.

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I used it to cover some sheeted areas on my latest project.  The dope doesn't seem to go 'through' it like it used to with modelspan.  I've ended up spreading the dope with a brush and then 'ironing' it down with paper towel, to force it through the weave and get it to stick to the (pre-doped) surface.  This technique means more dope ends up in the bin than on the plane!  When dry, it tends to detach at the edges, requiring more dabbing and burnishing to get it to stick down.  'Orrible stuff...

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3 hours ago, Mike T said:

I used it to cover some sheeted areas on my latest project.  The dope doesn't seem to go 'through' it like it used to with modelspan.  I've ended up spreading the dope with a brush and then 'ironing' it down with paper towel, to force it through the weave and get it to stick to the (pre-doped) surface.

As Leccyflyer says, perhaps it's because it's formulated to work with water based EZE Dope.

These photos are of the balsa cowl on my "Jersey Javelin".  The EZE tissue was just attached using Wilco interior varnish, and as you can see, by keeping it damp it went around the compound curves ok with a bit of patience. I didn't have any real issues with the edges detaching.IMG_20250311_170059722.thumb.jpg.b68b9b525e242654f46209d9d930c2e3.jpg

 

cowlc.thumb.jpg.f72cefebd5300c936181ba9497625f68.jpg

 

 

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